Strolling through the Saguaros

After spending the evening looking up at the night sky atop Kitt Peak, I still got up early enough to get in a morning hike out in Saguaro National Park. I drove out to the Broadway Gate Trailhead and saw that this was a popular one, as cars lined both sides of the road. After finding a spot, I grabbed my gear and headed to the trailhead. Three different trails share this trailhead, so the popularity makes sense. A volunteer was standing at the junction, so I checked in with him about my route, and he wished me happy hiking. My plan was to link together a collection of trails to total about 5 miles. I headed southward along the Cactus Forest trail, passing the occasional fellow hiker. The trail junctions are well marked, so I was only pulling out my phone to take a photo.

I then turned eastward onto the Cholla Trail, which would take me to the Squeeze Pen Trail. Along the way, I spotted a good-sized road runner. Unfortunately, my hands were full and I could not get a photo before it ran away. At the junction with the Squeeze Pen Trail, I began hiking northward. Here, some of the saguaro were flowering, so that was a delightful sight to see.

Once I reached the Pink Hill Trail, I joined it and started heading west. I followed the small spur to the top of the hill. After taking in the view of the wide, flat desert, I rejoined the Pink Hill Trail. It crossed a few washes, but soon it connected with the Shantz Trail, which brought me back to the starting point. I let the volunteer know about the flowering saguaro along the Squeeze Pen Trail, then headed back to the car. My loop covered 5.24 miles with 180 feet of gain in 1:41. I headed over to the visitor center to pick up my Junior Ranger badge and another “I Hiked for Health” pin!

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and Arizona-Winter). Beyond attempting the San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list a second time, I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Early morning in Alamo Canyon

After finishing up my hikes that afternoon, it was time to head over to my campsite. I had secured one of the four sites at the Alamo Canyon Primitive Campground. Finding the site was not easy, as I drove right by the turn-off and had to double back to make the 3-mile drive down the dirt road. I pulled into my spot and quickly got to setting up my Luno Mattress. I could not find the nozzle for the compressor, so I had to hold it carefully to each valve to inflate them. I found the nozzle the next morning when packing up, under the folded back seat. How it got there is a mystery. I opted to bring a sandwich for dinner and skip a dehydrated meal or the hassle of any real cooking. I sat and watched an incredible sunset, and actually ran around looking for some nice saguaro to frame in the fading light. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument does not allow campfires, so when the darkness comes, it comes. Soon, Orion came into view, low in the western skies. I spent some time working on my astrophotography. I am slowly understanding AstroShader, the app I use for these experiments. Shortly, the effort of the two hikes and the drive told me it was time to crawl into my car and get some sleep.

Around 4 am, I woke up and decided to crawl out and grab a few more photos, as the Milky Way was now visible in the night sky. I slept for a couple more hours before the morning light crept through the window. I made a simple breakfast of oatmeal before heading out to hike the Alamo Canyon Trail. I was technically 0.12 miles shy of the required 5 miles to earn that “I hiked the green desert” pin. This 1.8 round trip trail is fairly flat, so those miles wouldn’t be an issue, and there is an old house and corral to be seen along the trail as well.

The trail worked its way along the north side of the wash, passing a variety of cacti, including some Organ Pipe Cactus. The morning light offered some great photos. I came to the old house first and poked around it some, but I was on a bit of a timetable. I crossed through the wash and quickly reached the corral. I snapped a few photos and began to retrace my route. There in the wash was the rusted remains of the engine that must have been the pump to pull the water from the wash to the storage troughs. Soon, I spied the end of the trail and the end of my adventures in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I changed out of my hiking gear and drove back to the visitor center to obtain my pin. Now for the 2 1/2 hour drive to Tucson for the rest of my Arizona adventure.

A loop through Estes Canyon

Just about a mile down the road from the Arch Canyon Trail is the Estes Canyon/Bull Pasture Trailhead. I pulled into the empty parking lot, refilled my water bottles, and snacked on some dried apricots before heading out. This hike was going to be a loop, but I didn’t know which direction I was going to go. Looking over the information panel, the grade looked nicer going in a clockwise direction. I was feeling good, but still would rather play it safe. At the junction, I signed the logbook and set off along the Estes Canyon Trail. I cruised along the trail, crossing a wash from time to time. After about a mile, I reached the pasture, and off to the south, I could see the switchbacks that I would climb to loop back.

I kept my head focused on the trail and not the climb. Soon, I reached the junction that one could take to an overlook (and if it had been cooler out, onto the summit of Mount Ajo). I was not interested in adding another mile to this hike, so I continued on toward the parking lot. More switchbacks took me down, and soon the road came back into view. Another 2.4 miles under my belt. Since the visitor center was already closed, there was no need to add in the last few tenths of a mile I needed to reach 5 miles of hiking in the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and earn my “I Hiked the Green Desert” pin. Officially, this hike was 2.48 miles with 487 feet of gain.

Back at the car, I finished the Ajo Mountain Drive loop and set off to my campsite at Alamo Primitive Campground. I quickly set up my Luno in the back of the Subaru and relaxed while enjoying my dinner and a well-earned beer. The sunset was incredible, and soon the stars began to appear. I spent some time working on my astro-photography before turning in for the night.

Hiking up Arch Canyon

My first stop on my southern Arizona adventure was to explore Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I had secured a site at the Alamo Primitive Campground for Thursday night, so I used that as my anchor for planning the rest of the adventure. Originally, I was going to be backpacking the Highline National Trail, but some scheduling issues made that no longer possible. After making the drive over from San Diego, I fueled up in Gila Bend, grabbed a Subway sandwich for dinner, and headed south on the 85.

I first made a stop at the Kris Engel Visitor Center to get my Junior Ranger badge and to check about the trails I hoped to hike that afternoon. Leaving the visitor center, I set off along Ajo Mountain Drive to the respective trailheads. This road is one way, so I really did not have a choice in the order I hiked them. I had a drive tour guide booklet, but I had watched a good YouTube video of this drive, so I was familiar with the sights. I pulled into the parking area for the Arch trail. The arch, actually a double arch, is visible from the trailhead, but I wanted to hike up the canyon and explore the area near it. Two cars were in the lot when I arrived, and another joined soon after I did. I changed into my hiking gear and set off. I had frozen two bottles of water, and they were still about half ice when I set off. The car thermometer read 85° F.

The maintained trail headed along the south side of the canyon, working its way back and around the ridge on which the arch is located. After about 0.6 miles, the maintained trail ends. A metal bar lies on the ground. From here, you follow a well-marked use trail up the slope of the ridge. Cairns are plentiful, and usually, you can also see the well-worn path. I came upon a couple from Finland who were not enjoying this hike. I offered water or snacks if they needed them, but they refused. I think they decided to turn back, as I did not see them again. A short time later, a hiker passed me coming back from the top. We chatted briefly before going our respective ways.

I reached the ridgeline and made my way toward the arch, but as I drew near, I could not find a safe enough route to fully get to it. I could see a portion of it, and that would have to do. I began working my way back down when the hiker who pulled in the parking lot after me arrived at the summit. She had hit the trail before I did, and I was wondering where she had gone. She mentioned that she poked around the southern part of the ridge before coming close to the arch. The descent was slow as the route was a combination of steep grade and loose rocks. I took my time and enjoyed the shade offered by the ridge and the light breeze. Soon, I was back on the maintained trail and cruised back to the car. Got in 2.4 miles and 1,004 feet of gain. I need a total of 5 miles hiked to earn my “I Hiked the Green Desert” pin. Let’s see how many miles I can do along the next trail.

Wave Cave

Since my son would be at work all day Monday, I decided to bring my hiking gear with me to Arizona and try to get in some early morning hiking. I wanted something relatively short, but interesting, so I decided to hike up to the Wave Cave. I drove to the Peralta trailhead parking lot. This was the same road I used when I hiked the Hieroglyphic Trail a couple of years ago. A couple of hikers were starting out when I pulled into the dirt lot. It was a chilly 47°F as I grabbed my gear, but I knew that cold feeling would soon fade into memory. The trail headed across the flat desert floor, but off in the distance I could spot the cave up on the hillside. After about 0.6 miles, the trail reaches the boundary of the Superstition Wilderness. While a trail does run along the fence, I continued north through an opening. In another 0.2 miles, the trail to Carney Springs forked to the right, but I stayed on the more used trail to the left. At this point, I would start climbing toward the cave.

The trail now passed into a ravine and began to climb in earnest. The trail crosses over the ravine and makes the final push up to the cave itself. As I got to the cave, the couple who were ahead of me were just about to leave. I asked if they wouldn’t mind taking a few photos of me on the “wave” before they left. Once they left, I had the cave to myself (since this is a popular hike, it was a rarity, which is one advantage of starting at dawn). After exploring the cave and having some water, I headed back down the trail.

The views out across the desert were lovely, and as I made my way back toward the car, I passed several more hikers heading up. Unfortunately, I made a misstep with about 0.5 miles to go and rolled my ankle. Thankfully, I was able to keep going with just a little discomfort and got back to the car without any further issues. Back at the hotel, I wrapped my ankle and kept it elevated and iced for the rest of the day. This was a fun little hike (despite the rolled ankle).

Papago Park Loop

Near the hotel where we were staying for my son’s graduation (go ASU! Forks Up!) is Papago Park. Since I had brought my hiking gear, I decided to wake up early and explore it before it became too warm. I parked near the Hole-In-The-Rock and set off. The Hohokam Tribe used this hole in the rock as a calendar to mark the summer and winter solstice. The hole is directly visible from the parking lot, and a few folks were already exploring it. I did not see a path from this side and followed the trail to the backside. On reaching the backside, I also did not find a route to the hole. I must admit, I did not do my usual research for this hike, as I should have found a trail on the backside. Next time when I visit my son in Tempe, I will do the trail correctly. I wasn’t too disappointed, as I was more interested in seeing the park. I headed to the northwest to loop around the Papago Buttes, then down to Little Butte. The trails were nicely defined and several folks were out for their early morning run or walk. I hiked part way up Little Butte to take in the views of Phoenix. I was starting to get hungry, so I headed back to the car.

Hieroglyphic Trail

Since I was in Tempe for Arizona State University’s Family Weekend, I had limited time to get in a proper hike. I had finally hiked the “A” the day before, but on Sunday I had a bit more availability to get some trail time. I settled on doing the Hieroglyphic Trail out in the Superstition Wilderness. I had seen the signs for this trail back when I hiked Fremont Saddle. This 3-mile round trip hike was just the right length to let me get back to the hotel to shower and check out. The sunrise was spectacular, but since I was alone, I could not safely capture it on my phone. Where’s Ted when you need him!? I pulled into the parking lot and about 6 or 7 cars were already there. Both the Hieroglyphic trail and the Lost Goldmine Trail start from here.

The trail works its way toward a massive collection of petroglyphs near the mouth of the canyon. Clear signage was in place at the junction for the two trails. The trail is a typical desert trail, with some rocky sections and some dirt sections. I scrambled down one minor section just before reaching the petroglyphs.

I carefully explored the petroglyphs carved into the surrounding rocks, watching my footing, as the rocks were slick from water flowing down the canyon. I certainly did not want to slip into that pool of stagnant water. Since I did have a timeline to stick to, I did not linger as long as I might have wanted to. I passed more and more folks heading up the trail. It was certainly a popular one, as the parking lot was almost completely full upon my return.

Hayden Butte (aka The “A”)

While my son has attended Arizona State University for two years now, I never seemed to have to the time to hike up The “A”. On my last visit, I made sure I got the quick hike in. Located next to the football stadium, it is just 3/4 miles round-trip. I opted to approach it from the west trail to the summit. This is just a paved service road to the water tanks. Once it reaches the tanks, the trail becomes a mix of concrete stairs and railroad ties almost to the summit. It is a popular work-out trail for students and nearby residents.

I made my way to the top with no issues. I was surprised to see the benchmark still embedded on the summit. I made my way back down using a different route for the second half of the descent. Maybe next time, I can wake up my son and have him join me :).

Mount Elden

The previous day’s ascent of Bill Williams took a bit out of me. That, coupled with a slightly worse weather forecast, meant the planned hike up Kendrick peak was not going to happen. Instead, I opted to summit Mt. Elden, which is all of 10 minutes from my friend’s house.

I grabbed a biscuit from McDonald’s and ate it while I finished getting ready. If you have ever driven through Flagstaff and seen the tall mountain right in town, that is Mt. Elden. The parking lot was almost full when we got there at 7:30.

The trail starts off fairly gently before the steep ascent to the summit. My friend’s husband decided to join me. He had hiked it years ago and wanted to try again. But about a mile in, he looks down to discover the soles of his hiking boots have separated. I dug out my duct tape to hold them together enough for him to return to the trailhead and call his wife. One of the benefits of an in-town hike with cell service! I then set off.

I was extra mindful that I was at altitude and kept a measured pace. This trail was much rockier than Bill Williams. A friend described this hike as like doing Viejas Mountain but 3x harder. I can attest that is about right.

The trail would work its way up the steep slope, switching back and forth. Hikers would pass me returning from the summit and a couple would pass me on their ascent. I would stop from time to time to catch my breath and to take in the view.

Soon, the lookout tower and all the other towers came into view. I found a shady spot and just sat there for a while. Once I had recovered, I wandered around the summit. The views were spectacular. I could see Kendrick to the northwest and Humphrey to the north. Clouds were starting to build, so I was glad to have changed up my plans. I found both reference marks and the benchmark.

I had made the summit in 2:30, and after about 30 minutes at the top I knew it was time to head down. Given the steep rocky nature of the trail, I did not expect to gain much time like I had on Bill Williams. I stopped a few times to chat with folks making their way up. Finally the 1/2 mile to go sign appeared and the end was in sight. It had gotten a tad warm, but a strong breeze offset that. All told I recorded this hike at 5.4 miles. It took me 5:02 to climb the 2,397 feet to the summit.

Bill Williams

With our local forests still closed, I got the ok to head out on another hiking adventure. This time I decided to head to Flagstaff to try some of their Arizona – Summer Six Pack Peaks. I left San Diego at 4:30 am, in part to avoid some LA traffic, but since there were afternoon showers and thunderstorms in the forecast, I also needed to be mindful of that.

Can some tell where Bill Williams #1-#20 are?

There are four peaks in the general Flagstaff area; Humphreys, Kendrick, Mt. Elden, and Bill Williams. Since Bill Williams is near the town of Williams, that was my first stop for the weekend. I pulled into the parking lot at the trailhead and set off. The trail is incredibly well-marked with green blazes to guide you along. I set off a bit too fast and the elevation gently reminded me to ease up my pace. My starting elevation was 6,900’.

The trail worked its way ever upward. Some nice collections of wildflowers would be found for much of the hike. I did have to break out the bug net as the flies were just bothersome enough. As I continued climbing, I kept an eye on the skies. A few clouds here and there but all looked good. The trees kept me from having any views of the area, but just walking under the pines and eventually some aspens made up for that.

The trail connects with a service road almost at the summit. It was here I met another hiker. We chatted a bit before heading in our respective directions. The summit is home to a variety of communication towers and a fire lookout tower. There were two service trucks and two off-road vehicles parked near the top. I chatted with the off-roaders a bit before heading to the tower.

While the tower is closed, you can climb part way up. As I sat on the stairs having a well earned snack, I was soaking in the views. I found one reference mark but that was it. Being mindful of the weather and needing to still get to Flagstaff to stay with a college friend and her husband, I set back down the trail.

It certainly was easier coming down from 9,256 feet than the climb up. Back at the car I logged the hike at 7.8 miles in 4:52, with an elevation gain of 2,383 feet.