Backpacking Yosemite High Sierra Camps

Originally, I had a permit to hike the Yosemite High Sierra Camp loop in July, but my summer plans changed, and I could no longer go due to classes. Thankfully, I was able to score one during my break between them. I drove up to Lee Vining, checked into my room, then made my way to the Whoa Nellie Deli for some fish tacos. Afterward, I watched the sun fade over Mono Lake. The next morning, I grabbed breakfast at Nicely’s, then checked out and grabbed a turkey sandwich for later. The drive up over Tioga Pass is always stunning. Bits of snow clung to the tops of some of the peaks. I pulled into the parking lot at the Wilderness permit station and quickly got my permit. The plan was to camp at each of the five High Sierra Camps; the ranger did caution me that the mosquitoes were bad at Sunrise and Vogelsang. I shouldered my pack and set off. Since I had hiked this section last year, I had less anxiety about what lay ahead.

As I reached the parking lot for Lambert Dome, some PCT hikers were looking for a hitch down the road. I inquired about how Glen Pass was, and they confirmed that it was not too bad, but you needed to tackle it early before it became slushy. I wished them well on their journey and continued on.

The hike down to Glen Aulin is pretty mellow, as it mostly follows the Tuolumne River. I stopped at Soda Springs, then at Parsons Lodge. Crews were doing some trail work nearby, and I thanked them for their efforts. From time to time, hikers passed me as they headed back to the meadow. After crossing the first bridge, I took a short snack break, watching the water flow by.

The trail worked its way past a few small waterfalls before finally reaching the bridge that would cross back across the Tuolumne and into Glen Aulin. I decided to see if the site I used last time was open, and it was. A couple from Florida was nearby, but I was respectfully far enough away. After setting up my tent, I ate that sandwich, then stored my pack in one of the lockers. For the afternoon, I relaxed and, after a short nap, wandered down to enjoy the views. A PCT thru-hiker joined me and a couple from Florida on the ledge and set up camp. He went by Casper and finally realized his dream of hiking the whole trail. Dinner was a Chili Mac meal, but I brought some homemade cornbread to have with it. With a full stomach, I turned in, knowing I had a modest climb tomorrow to the next camp.

I awoke around dawn and enjoyed breakfast before packing up. Crossing back over the Tuolumne, almost all of today’s hike would be a steady climb up to May Lake. Again, with less anxiety about the trail, I kept it at a more mellow pace. Some of the smaller streams were almost dry, but I still had a few stream crossings to make. I met another hiker making their way from May Lake. We chatted for a bit, and she confirmed that the bugs at Sunrise were awful, and some hikers actually left due to the mosquitoes. Great, not the news I wanted to hear. We wished each other well on our respective hikes.

I took a snack break at the same spot as last time, just being mindful not to lose my tripod this time. The trail becomes a bit more exposed, so that early start helped. I focused on my pace as the climb also became steeper. Before too long, I spied May Lake peeking through the trees. To my amazement, there were workers reassembling the actual camp! I wondered if they were going to reopen just this one or more? There were several large groups set up, so I scouted around for a spot that would give me a little space. Once set up, I enjoyed the area again. The bugs were minimal, so I could really just relax. The deeper question in my mind was the bugs at Sunrise (and the climb up to it). There actually is cell service here, so I let Anita know I might change plans and would keep her posted.

For dinner, I had Chicken Tikka Masala from Bowl and Kettle. They had sent me some of their meals to enjoy on this trek. I had this one before and could not wait to dive in. I also packed in some naan from Trader Joe’s to have with it. As I ate my meal, the sun slowly retreated behind Mt. Hoffman. After a hard day, I turned in and began debating my options for tomorrow.

I awoke again before dawn and quickly packed up. I decided to skip breakfast and just have a bar and some electrolytes before heading down to Tenya Lake. The early morning sun shone on Half Dome to the west. Once I reached the May Lake Trailhead, I dumped some trash before continuing on.

Once at Tenya Lake and the Sunrise Trailhead, I took a break and made breakfast. The parking lot was pretty full, as this trailhead is the one to Clouds Rest, a hike I have on my list. The trail stayed mellow for a while. Fresh bear scat was on the trail. I took a photo to denote the location for the rangers. Soon, the trail would begin its climb to Sunrise Lake. Even being very mindful of my pace, I actually caught some day hikers. At the trail junction for Clouds Rest, I took a snack break. Those day hikers caught back up, and some continued on to what I have heard is one of the most epic views in the park, while one pair headed on to the lake for some fishing.

I reached the first lake, and it was another stunning sight. After carefully crossing the outflow, I continued past the other two lakes before the last small climb. One tiny patch of snow remained on the trail just before I began my descent toward Sunrise HSC. I had chatted with some of the hikers passing in the other direction, and they validated the intensity of the bugs.

I crossed over a small stream to be rewarded with an incredible vista of the meadow and snow-capped mountains beyond. At a minimum, I knew this would be an outstanding lunch spot. As I ate, I debated whether to continue down to Merced HSC or hop on the John Muir Trail past Cathedral Lakes back to Tuolumne. Since the mosquitoes weren’t too bad at the moment, I found a nice site and made camp. It was just too beautiful not to try to stay. Plus, the lockers and pit toilet weren’t too far away. I slipped into my tent for a nap. When I awoke, there were certainly more mosquitoes buzzing around my tent. I ventured out to see the actual HSC and refill my water bottles.

I dove back into my tent, killing a few that snuck in. I slipped on my headphones and began catching up on some podcasts. Maybe I should have pushed on to Merced HSC? But it was a bit too late in the day to hike the 10 miles, plus I also heard it wasn’t exactly bug-free either. If I had had some company, it might have been easier to pass the time. For dinner, I had another meal from Bowl and Kettle, this time their Sweet Corn Grits. More mosquitoes were now buzzing about, so I ate in the tent. While I might have southern roots, grits were never my thing, but this dinner rocked!

I was glad I had downloaded some Netflix to watch as the sun slowly set. After another quick run to refresh my water and store my gear in the locker, I waited for the sun to dip behind the trees before turning in. A quarter moon was up and shining bright. I had to slip my beanie down to block the light. I still wasn’t sure about tomorrow’s adventure, so for now I just enjoyed the moment.

I awoke before dawn, in part to pack up before the mosquitoes came out. I took a moment to make breakfast and relish in the view. I finished packing, topped off my water, and set off. I had decided to exit. Spending the afternoon trapped in my tent was not my idea of fun at the next two sites.

Frost covered the meadow as I headed northward. While I had about 10 miles to get back to the car, it was mostly going to be downhill, except for a small climb over Cathedral Pass. The imposing Columbia Finger stood towering before me. Once over the pass, I soon passed Cathedral Lakes. The mosquitoes were back out, and other backpackers passed, some with bug nets on. I had mine ready just in case. Since the trail was mellow, I enjoyed my snack on the go to avoid being swarmed.

Once past the lake, I started passing more day hikers coming to enjoy it. As the miles slipped past, I reflected on the past four days and was pleased with the adventure.  Once back at the meadow, I headed to the store and grabbed a soda. I sat on the bench out front, watching the various PCT hikers milling about. Some repacked their resupply boxes, while others were enjoying a breakfast burrito. I still had a long drive home, so I did not linger any longer.

Back at the car, I tossed my pack in the back and changed into some fresh clothes before setting off. I hit Copper Top BBQ in Big Pine for lunch and Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ for some bread. All told, even with the mosquitoes, this was still a fantastic four days exploring Yosemite. Maybe I can grab another permit once the bugs are less of a problem and do a point-to-point hike from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, then to Merced, and finally to the Valley. Just need a shuttle bus running or another way to get back.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Returning to Sawmill Mountain

My son wanted to get away for the weekend, so I suggested that we head up toward Los Padres and camp at McGill Campground. After a small mix-up with the campground reservation, we got an even better site. After setting up, we relaxed a bit before cooking dinner, then continued relaxing by the campfire. The next morning, I made the short drive to Nordic Base to hike out to Sawmill Mountain.

I had considered Antimony Peak, but I was still nursing some calf tightness, and thought I should stick to a trail I knew well. I kept my pace a bit more on the mellow side; there was no need to set a PR. Before too long, the communication tower atop Mt. Pinos came into view. I swung by Ventura County’s high point, snapped a few photos, and motored on.

Quite a few Snow Plants dotted the sides of the trail. Usually, I might see one or two, but this time there were a lot more. A nice breeze kept the hike refreshing as I made my way down the saddle, then up toward Sawmill. Just as I was approaching the massive cairn, I met two hikers. We chatted a bit; they were off to hike Grouse Mountain for the 3-2-1 challenge. At the summit, I snapped a few photos and grabbed a snack. Leaving the summit, I met a trail runner who was hoping to make it all the way to Cerro Norteste. I wished him well on his run and continued back to the trailhead. I met a few other hikers along the way. When I got back to my car, I discovered that something went wrong with my recording. Drat! I was curious to see how long I had been moving, and I only had my total time (I stopped a few times for longer conversations with some of those hikers).

Once back at the campground, we packed up the car and headed off for the next adventure. We grabbed some tri-tip sandwiches from the market, then drove to the top of Frazier Mountain. The road was manageable. There were some rocky sections, but nothing too bothersome with good off-road tires. At the summit, we broke out the chairs and enjoyed both the view and the sandwiches. Afterward, we explored the abandoned fire lookout tower before heading back down the mountain and finally home.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Ascending Spitler Peak

When I was backpacking along the Desert Divide section of the PCT, I was able to “side quest” and climb a few of the HPS peaks that lay near the trail. However, there were a couple that I skipped for various reasons. So, today I decided to head back and cross one of them off the list. I settled on Spitler Peak as the day’s goal. I turned off Highway 74 and on Fobes Ranch Road. The road had recently been graded, but I still had to be a bit mindful, and avoid a few rocks from time to time. I came to a locked gate after about 3.5 miles of driving. Just before the gate was a wide spot to park. According to the map, this is where the road used to go, but it is now blocked by large rocks.

I gathered my gear, remembered to put up my sunshade, and set off along the abandoned road. After about 1/2 mile, the road ended, and the actual trail took over. My route would now climb toward Fobes Saddle, where I would rejoin the PCT. The trail was in pretty good condition. There were a couple of turns that were slightly confusing, so I built some cairns to help guide others.

Once at the saddle, I turned northward to continue the climb toward Spitler Peak. As I made my way along the trail, it was certainly easier without my full backpack, having already hiked about 16 miles. The peak came into view, and I began looking for cairns that might indicate a route up its steep slope. I didn’t remember seeing any when I passed by it last time, and that still held true this time. So, I looked for a clear, straightforward path to get started on the ascent. When I say steep, I mean like 30-50% slope! I kept pushing on, knowing the summit wasn’t actually that far off the trail. I checked my position and adjusted my ascent route slightly to reach the proper summit. Once at the summit, I slipped off my pack and took in the views. During the ascent, my left calf began to ache, so I mixed up some electrolytes to see if that might help. After a snack, some more photos, I signed the register and headed back down.

Back on the PCT, I retraced my route back to Fobes Saddle. Along the way, I enjoyed the wildflowers that still dotted the sides of the trail. At the saddle, there was a box marked “trail magic”; it was actually filled with trash from thru-hikers. I gathered some up and stuffed them into my pack to haul out.  My calf continued to ache, but I managed to keep hiking down the trail. When I was back on the abandoned road, I spotted a gopher snake in the shade, but upon looking closer, I saw that a smaller rattlesnake had attacked it and was latched onto it. As I gave it a wide berth, I wondered how that tiny rattler was going to handle much larger prey?

The day had warmed up, and the breeze usually kept it pleasant, but as the car came back into view, I was glad to be done. My calf was certainly going to need some attention once I got home, but first, I had to hit Paradise Valley Café for a well-earned lunch. The final stats for the hike were 7.5 miles in 4:22 with 2,294 feet of gain.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

A hike up Hawksbill Mountain

Despite a sore calf, I decided to try to make the short hike up Hawksbill Mountain. I parked at the trailhead, gathered my gear, and began strolling up the trail. Thankfully, the grade was mild and did not aggravate my calf too much.

I passed a deer enjoying the grass, looking at the passing hikers without a care in the world. Soon, I approached the day-use hut and was greeted with a sweeping view of the Shenandoah Valley. The true summit lay about 50 yards to the north, and I hiked over to it. There, a stone platform had been built back in the 1930s by the CCC. I chatted with a family from Ohio for a bit before heading back down.

It was now late enough to check in to the Lodge where I was staying for the night. Once settled in, I grabbed a beer and sat outside and soaked in the views. How I wish Anita were with m

The hike up Hawksbill was 2.1 miles in 1:10 with 348 feet of gain. It was also my third national park high point!


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Hiking a loop through Shenandoah National Park

I awoke to my ears still ringing from last night’s Bruce Springsteen concert (or maybe just my regular tinnitus) and quickly packed up and checked out. Today’s plan was to drive out to Shenandoah National Park. Once past the DC traffic, I cruised through the Virginia countryside. Once on Skyland Drive, I headed south toward Big Meadows and the visitor center there. Along the way, I would pull over at one of the many overlooks to marvel at the views.  At the visitor center, I stamped my passport book and picked up my Junior Ranger booklet. The plan for the morning was to make a nice loop from there down to Dark Hollow Falls, then up past Rose River Falls. From there, I planned to work my way over to the Big Meadows lodge for lunch, then down to Lewis Spring Falls before finally returning to the visitor center.

The creek flowed next to the trail as I made my way down toward the falls. It had been raining for the past week, so everything was still damp. The falls were lovely, and a few folks were milling about, taking in their beauty. I continued on down the trail, still marveling at everything. From time to time, I had to deal with water running along the trail. A few spots took some care, as I was without my trekking poles. The trail then turned upward toward the next major falls, Rose River. Once there, I took another break and enjoyed them.

Unfortunately, my left calf began to tighten. I drank some electrolytes and hoped that might address the issue. Once I reached the Rose River Trailhead, my route was now on the Appalachian Trail! As I worked my way toward the lodge at Big Meadows, I crossed paths with 4 different thru-hikers. I chatted with them briefly, and all were happy to have a break from the rain. The calf was getting better, but I knew I was going to be skipping the Lewis Springs Falls part of my hike.

After lunch and working on my Junior Ranger booklet, I made a quick trip up BlackRock Overlook. Once back at the visitor center and my Junior Ranger badge secured, I stopped at the general store next door and grabbed some bananas and another Gatorade. This adventure covered 7.5 miles in 3:47 and 1,464 feet of gain.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Hiking the Panorama Loop

One of the day hikes I have always wanted to do was the Panorama Loop in Yosemite. Since I had the time, I made the drive up to El Portal and pitched my tent at the Indian Flat RV park, as I could not secure a site in the park proper. I drove into Yosemite Valley and grabbed one of the last parking spots for Bridalveil Falls. While we had a low snow year, the falls were still flowing nicely.   After enjoying the light mist from the cascading water, I headed over to view Yosemite Falls, parking near Sentinel Bridge. From there, I walked over to follow the trail to view Lower Yosemite Falls. Along the way, I gazed up at Half Dome, knowing that I had once stood atop that majestic piece of granite. From the viewpoint of the falls, I strolled over to the Village Store to find a sticker or maybe a shirt. They had a nice “I made it to the top” sticker, so I grabbed one for myself and another for Ted. After looking for my dinner options, I settled on the Base Camp Eatery. Since tomorrow was going to be a long, hard day of hiking, I headed back to my tent to turn in.

I awoke just before dawn and quickly got ready, enjoying some oatmeal and a coffee. Again making the drive back into the valley, parking at the trailhead for the Four Mile Trail. The Panorama Loop is actually a combination of several trails: the Four Mile Trail, the Panorama Trail, and either the Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail. I chose to start on the Four Mile Trail, as it would have me ending near Curry Village. Two other cars were already parked alongside the road. This trailhead only had space for about 10 cars, so I was glad to be doing this hike before Memorial Day. Otherwise, I might have had to park on the other side of the valley and walk over, or wait for the shuttle buses to be running.

I gathered my pack and set off. The trail climbed up the wall of the valley, but at mostly a steady grade. Views of El Capitan and Yosemite Falls would appear from beyond the trees. My first destination was Union Point, offering an uninterrupted view of the valley. While I had gained a fair amount of elevation, I still had more to gain.

The trail swung southward, and Half Dome came into view for the first time. This also meant I was nearing my next destination, Glacier Point. After reaching it and chatting with some visitors about hiking up Half Dome, I headed to the store. I grabbed an ice cream sandwich and a soda. They also had pre-made sandwiches which sounded better than the tuna kit I had brought. Plus, it was mostly all downhill from here, so carrying a second lunch wasn’t going to be a burden. I enjoyed that ice cream out on the amphitheater, soaking in the stunning views. While I would have loved to just sit there for a long time, I still had a lot of miles to cover.

Now on the Panorama Trail, the vistas shifted to the Yosemite backcountry. Snow still clung to the mountain tops off in the distance. The trail crossed several small streams, some even flowing for a time on the trail itself. In a few weeks, I suspect they will be dry. Before too long, Illouette Falls came into view, which was my next stopping point. I took a short side trail to a viewpoint to marvel at them. This is actually the best place to view it, given how the water actually flows.

Once at the bridge over Illouette Creek, I took a short break. I initially thought I might have lunch there, but I was still full from that ice cream sandwich, so I decided to wait until Nevada Falls to enjoy it. Sadly, I saw the amount of trash scattered about the sandy beach, so I had to clean up what I could before continuing.

Now the trail would climb away from the falls. After about a mile and almost 600 feet of gain, I took another short trail to Panorama Point. I stood on an outcropping and took in the views. The trail leveled out for a while before descending toward Nevada Falls. I passed the closed junction to the John Muir Trail and found a nice shady spot near the river to enjoy my lunch. I took my time, soaking it all in. It was busy with groups of all kinds milling about.

That sandwich hit the spot, along with the Fritos, but it was time to descend down the Mist Trail. This was one part of the hike I was not looking forward to. This portion of the trail is steep and will also be crowded. Alas, there was no alternative, so down I went. This was also why I remembered to bring my rubber tips for my trekking poles to navigate the granite.

After crossing the river again at the Silver Apron, I left the Mist Trail to take the connector trail to Clark Point. This would allow me to bypass the crowds at Vernal Falls, and the wetter section of the Mist Trail. Upon reaching Clark Point, I was now back on the JMT. The final miles went quickly, and I was soon at Happy Isles Trailhead. I waited a bit for the shuttle to Curry Village, where a cold beer and some food awaited me, then decided to just make the flat one-mile walk. What’s one more mile after doing about 16?

At Bar 1899, the cold beer and pretzel bites were just what this hiker needed. I was also going to get a pizza, but there was a 45-minute wait, so I opted for a burrito instead. Since it was over two miles back to the car, I waited for the shuttle this time.

Finally back at the car, I changed into a dry shirt and made my way up to Tunnel View to enjoy the shadows slowly working their way across the valley. Again, this parking lot was almost at capacity. I can only imagine what Memorial Day Weekend would look like in a few days. As I looped back through the valley, I stopped at El Capitan Meadow. I decided to stroll out a bit, hoping to spot a climber’s headlamp on El Capitan. There, I ran into a gentleman with a nice spotter’s scope trained on a few climbers. He allowed me to look through it before he packed it away. He told me that those climbers were a 7-year-old attempting to become the youngest to climb El Cap and his brother, who was aiming to be the youngest to climb it twice (along with their support crew and father). To learn more about their successful climb, visit https://samadventure.com/.

It had been a long day, and while some astrophotography was tempting, I had a long drive home the next day. I awoke early and made breakfast while I finished packing up my site before making the drive home. The final stats for this hike were 15.5 miles, in 7:58 with over 4,507 feet of gain.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Hiking the Sandstone Peak Loop

After spending the night at my wife’s uncle’s house in Encino, I awoke early and drove to the Mishe Mokwa Trailhead in the Santa Monica Mountains. The goal today was to complete a 7+ mile loop that included 6 summits on the Lower Peak Committee list. I pulled into an empty parking lot and gathered my gear. Crossing the road, I set off along the trail, hoping that not bringing a jacket wasn’t a mistake, as the clouds were all around me. I came to the first signed junction and headed off toward Sandstone Peak. The trail was in great shape, and I was making good time. A couple of hikers passed me, returning from what I assume might have been an attempt to watch sunrise from the summit. I found the turn off to the peak and worked my way up. A plaque honoring Mr. W. Herbert Allen, who donated many acres of land to the Boy Scouts, was mounted on a nearby rock. There was an attempt to rename this peak in his honor in the 1960s, but the petition was denied because of a Department of the Interior policy against naming geographic landmarks after people who were still alive. The clouds prevented any sort of views, and I knew that was going to be the case for the rest of the day. 

I made my way back down to the Backbone trail and continued my clockwise route. The track I was using as a guide featured a short side-hike to the summit of Pico Raquelita. While not on the list, I figured, why not bag another peak? After a little bushwhack, I reached the summit and quickly returned to the main trail. I found the use trail leading to the top of Boney Peak not long after rejoining it. I was surprised by the lack of cairns to guide hikers, especially given that this area is fairly popular. I found the primary summit block and called it “bagged”. There was no need to climb it for the view, as there was none. I opted for a more direct route back to the main trail, guessing my way down.

Next up was Inspiration Point, just a short walk to the memorial for William Plants, an Eagle Scout who died on the trail in Kings Canyon National Park at the age of 16. Two hikers were just leaving as I arrived. Atop the memorial is a sighting disc to help pinpoint the various landmarks that could have been seen, but not today.

The trail came to a junction, and I turned to the south to hike to Exchange Peak. I passed some old water tanks, then onto a use trail toward the summit. While the route was mostly findable, I again wondered about the lack of cairns and how they might be useful.

After a snack, I headed northward toward Tri-Peaks. My route would become less defined as I left the Backbone Trail for a while. There was signage to help guide me, so I never felt lost. I reached the summit and understood the reasoning behind the name. I milled around the base of the Tri-Peaks before continuing northward toward the final peak of this loop, Big Dome. 

My route turned eastward, and just after Pop Top Peak, which I technically skipped, the trail veered off toward the summit. I missed the first trail up, and had to back-track to it from the east side. Again, just more views of the gray clouds.

I rejoined the Mishe Mowka Trail and continued eastward. I passed by Split Rock, stopping at the picnic table to adjust my shoes before continuing on. I opted not to take the unmaintained trail to view Balance Rock because visibility was so poor. I slipped in my headphones and enjoyed a podcast as I motored home.

A couple of signposts asked visitors to position their camera, take a photo, and email it to the researchers. This citizen scientist’s effort to catalog the recovery from the 2018 Woolsey Fire is really impressive. I snapped my photos to send later. Before too long, I reached the junction near the start of the trail. There, a gentleman was plucking up the red flags I had spotted from time to time along the trail. I initially assumed they were there for a trail race on Saturday. They actually were guides for hikers from a nearby retreat. We chatted a bit as we made our way back to the trailhead. He went over to his clients, and I to my car. I changed for the long drive home and set off. This was a great day of peak bagging, knocking 6 more off the LPC list. I might need to return on a clear winter’s day to enjoy the views, but it was still a good day on the trails. The final stats were 7.5 miles in 4:25 with 1,443 feet of gain


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Exploring Temescal Peak

My second peak of the day was going to be Temescal Peak, another on the Lower Peak Committee list. I parked at the end of the Marvin Braude Mulholland Gateway Park, topped off my water, and set off. The trail soon met up with Mulholland Drive, which I took for a bit before I turned on the Temescal Fire Road. I cruised along until I reached “The Hub”, which had a nice shaded bench, some information about the complex geology of the region, and a porta-potty. Several trails branch off from here, hence the name.

Off in the distance, I could see my destination. I continued on the fire road until I reached the Backbone Trail, which took me almost to the summit. I took in the views; the May Grey had begun to burn off, but not quite enough to see the Pacific. After a quick snack, I headed back, as I was dreaming of a nice pastrami sandwich for lunch.

Along the way, I did take a moment to explore the Cathedral Rocks before a break under that shade structure. Before too long, I was back at my car. Now for that sandwich… The hike was 6.7 in 2:20, with 721 feet of gain.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

Up to the Hollywood Sign

The start of my Los Angeles Lower Peak adventure was to finally climb Cahuenga Peak and see the backside of the Hollywood sign. I left early to try to avoid as much of the traffic as possible. Parking on Lake Hollywood Boulevard, I gathered my gear and set off. I turned onto Wonderview Drive, passing some lovely homes. I slipped around the gate (which I later learned only looks locked), but I retrieved a lost water bottle from the hillside, so I figured I had done a good deed to go off-trail slightly. Once past the water tank, I spied the actual trail to my first destination, the Wisdom Tree atop Burbank Peak. A plaque gave some history about this portion of Griffith Park. The trail climbed quickly to the summit. The Wisdom Tree was the sole surviving tree from the Burnham Fire and has garnered celebrity status. I took in the views, under the May Grey, and continued along the ridge trail toward Cahuenga Peak, my actual goal, as it is the one on the Lower Peaks Committee list. The trail had some ups and downs; I am sure a bit more challenging for non-hikers, but I kept hiking along.

Atop Cahuenga Peak, I enjoyed the view of Lake Hollywood below me and Mt. Lee to the east. 

The trail connected to the Mt. Lee service road and, in a short distance, the backside of the Hollywood sign. I walked up the small hill to see the entire sign. After snapping a few photos, I headed back. While the overcast skies kept the day cool, I certainly wasn’t going to have an iconic photo of the LA skyline today.

I retraced my route and was soon back at the car. Next up was Temescal Peak, out near Encino. My stats for this hike were x.x miles, in x:xx with xx feet of gain.


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I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest. 

PCT – Apache Springs to Idyllwild

The winds did blow through the night, but unlike San Gorgonio, the tent held firm. I awoke just before dawn and enjoyed the colors over Palm Springs as I ate my oatmeal and had a cup of coffee. I gathered more water, being more careful not to kick up the silt. My filter was partially clogged, so it took some time to ensure I had enough water to reach Tahquiz Creek, the next water source.

Once packed up, I began the climb back to the junction. Sara had messaged me that she had just hit the trail herself. I said hello to some thru-hikers finishing packing up from their night up top. Apache Peak was right next to the trail, so I dropped my pack and followed the cairns to the summit. I found a sign and the register, but nothing to sign in. The views were something, but I had a lot of miles to cover, and this section was almost all in the sun.

Since my filter was working so slowly, I hung the CNOC bag from my pack, and my mini M!GO bottle was attached. Unfortunately, a brushy section knocked the bottle free. I found it with most of the water still inside, thankfully. It was worth a shot. I had my sun umbrella with me, but hadn’t attached the straps to fix it to my pack, and I was not about to just hold it through this section of the trail.

As I neared Spitler Peak, I opted to skip it as I just did not have the legs for the steep climb to the summit. If you have ever watched some videos of hikers doing this section in the winter, you realize how dangerous this portion of the trail is. However, the views to my east were breathtaking.

I came to a small saddle, spied two packs just off the trail, and then I saw a man coming down from the nearby slope. I shouted “hi,” and he returned the greeting by crossing his arms and giving me an almost death-like stare. My “spidey-sense” went off the charts—there was something very wrong with this dude. I gave him a thumbs up and kicked it up a notch to hike away from him. I glanced back to see if he might be following me, but thankfully, he did not seem to be. Soon, I caught up with Sara. Turns out she, too, had an odd encounter with him, as did some other hikers. We hiked together for a bit, filling each other in about our evening and the day so far. Sara still hadn’t found her climbing legs yet, so she suggested I just find my groove and meet at the creek. Since I had skipped Spitler, I knew I was going to be skipping Red Tahquitz. I crested the saddle and knew the rest of the hike was all downhill with some shade.

I leapfrogged another hiker, who asked me about how my side quests were going. Hum, I might have just gotten a trail name…”Side Quest”. About 8 hikers were relaxing by the creek when I arrived. I filled my CNOC and slowly filtered my water while eating my lunch. About 30 minutes later, Sara rolled in. We all collectively chatted about the odd hiker, and I said that since I was headed down to Idyllwild, I would let the rangers know.

After a nice break under the shade of the pines, Sara and I headed off along the blue blaze toward Saddle Junction. Once there, a volunteer ranger was checking permits. Poor Sara didn’t have a tag yet, so she had to dig her paper one out of the middle of her pack. I had an updated email for mine, so I was good to go. Two other hikers were relaxing before they made their way down to town. Since Sara had just been in town, she was going to keep pushing north. We said goodbye for now, and I, along with the other two hikers, headed down the Devil’s Slide trail. Hopefully, my good friends Rick and Andrea had shuttled my car up to Humber Park. Partway down, a text came through that they had indeed parked the car for me. Not sure who was happier—me, not having to wait for my car, or the two ladies, who now had a ride into town.

We met a few folks heading up the trail on a day hike and one thru-hiker heading back. Soon, the parking lot came into view, and this epic adventure had come to a close. I dropped the ladies off at the post office and let Rick and Andrea know I had picked up my car. They agreed to meet for an early dinner at the Idyllwild Brewpub, and I filed them in on my trip. They were tackling San Jacinto from Devil’s Slide the next day, so an early dinner worked well for them, as they had a long day ahead.

The final stats for the two days were:

Day 119.0 miles4,667 feet13:03
Day 213.2 miles2,343 feet8:57

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.