Back in 2024, I had planned to hike the Lakes Trail to spend the night at Pear Lake. Unfortunately, the Coffee Pot Fire’s smoke blanketed the region, making the trip unhealthy. Fast-forward to 2026, and I had won the permit lottery for the Rae Lakes Loop, another backpacking trip that is high on my to-do list. But life threw another curveball. Originally, I was not planning on taking any classes this summer, so I would have had the time to travel from San Diego to Kings Canyon, and then spend the five days/four nights doing the Rae Lakes Loop. But since I did enroll in a class, I could no longer afford that much time away from my studies. So, I opted to try to do the Lakes Trail again, gambling on scoring a walk-up permit. I left Monday afternoon, drove to Bakersfield, and used some Marriott points to score a free room. The next morning I drove up to Sequoia National Park. According to the website, permits are released at 1 pm at the Wilderness Station at the Lodgepole Visitor Center, so I had a little time to explore some of the park before I headed over. I decided to rehike the Congress Trail and marvel at the giant redwoods. After enjoying the loop, I headed over to the permit station and was able to get a permit a bit early. In chatting with the ranger, I asked for his recommendation for the afternoon. He suggested that since the weather was pleasant, driving to Kings Canyon might be worth it. I needed to get my National Park Passport book stamped for Kings Canyon anyway, so that sealed the deal.
I drove up the Generals Highway, keeping an eye out for some of the possible campsites I might try to secure for the evening. At Grant’s Grove, I stamped my passport book and had lunch at the restaurant before driving down into Kings Canyon. I felt a bit sad, as this was the same route I would have driven if I had started the Rae Lakes Loop. Off to the east, I could see the clouds building over the mountains, forecasting classic afternoon thunderstorms. I had wanted to hike Zumwalt Meadow again, but as I drew near the trailhead, rain began to fall. So much for that plan. I got a second stamp from the Cedar Grove Visitor Center and made my way back toward where I would camp for the night. I considered hiking Buena Vista Peak, but decided to skip it and save my legs for the climb tomorrow. I turned on Big Meadow Road (14S11) and began looking for a possible campsite. Since this was actually Sequoia National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed. I also knew there was a campground further down the road with first-come sites. I drove past the staging area for the winter trailhead, and followed the paved road for a bit. I passed a large motorhome parked at one spot, then another camper off to the side. I came to Horse Corral Road and turned there. I found one spot that looked fine, but decided to explore some more before setting up camp. I stopped at another one which was a bit more secluded, but since I had time I opted to drive some more. Then I came to a really nice one. It appeared to be very level and had a nice eastern view. A nice rock fire-ring was there, so this became my spot. I began setting up camp, and it was then I realized I left my stove at home. Since this was just a rock fire-ring, there was no grate to set my pot on to cook my Trader Joe’s Jambalaya (recommend). Instead, I would need my fire to burn down some to allow the coals to reheat my meal. With the dinner issue solved, I enjoyed my meal as the sun sank behind me. I built the fire back up and relaxed.
I woke in the pre-dawn, partly due to the excitement and partly because I didn’t have window shades. I might invest in a full set one day. As I finished readying my pack, I saw that the ranger had accidentally issued the permit for yesterday. Crud. So, now I had to decide: ignore it and plead with a ranger if I was stopped, or try to fix it. I wasn’t sure when the permit station opened, but I was aiming for starting after 8, and the trailhead and the station were only about 2 miles away. I decided to swing by to see when they opened and try to fix it before setting off. After some coffee and breakfast, I finished packing up, double-checking my campfire was completely out, and drove back to Lodgepole. I arrived just as they were opening, and the ranger was able to adjust my permit without issue. I thanked him and set off to the trailhead at Wolverton. After storing my cooler in one of the bear lockers, I strapped on my backpack and set off. This trail is also a popular day hike, so I know I would be seeing a mix of folks along the route. My pack carried some different items than during my Yosemite trip: a bear can (my BV425), some rain gear, and my REI QuarterDome tent instead of my Gossamer Gear The One. The tent swap was for two reasons: since the REI tent uses a traditional pole system, I can set it up on rocky surfaces more easily, and being double-walled, it could handle the rain better.
The trail immediately began climbing from the parking lot. After 0.1 miles, it turns to the east and continues its climb under the shade of the forest. From time to time, the sounds of Wolverton Creek could be heard. Along the way, I met up with a group of day hikers taking a short break. I would wind up hiking with a lovely gentleman from Visalia all the way to The Watchtower. We would cross a few flowing streams, and a few wildflowers still remained in bloom along the trail. Our route turned more north-easterly as we approached The Watchtower. This trail is only open in the summer, as a portion of the trail becomes deadly from snow and ice. There is an alternate route known as The Hump, but I had no plans to take it on the way out to Pear Lake. A few backpackers passed us, returning from their stay. Soon, The Watchtower came into view. The Watchtower is a unique rock formation overlooking Tokopah Canyon. I slipped off my pack and took a break. While some do climb out onto its summit, I opted to just marvel at it from where I was. After about 20 minutes, I shouldered my pack and set off. The next section of the trail was the narrow, exposed portion. It did not bother me, but I could only imagine how my friend Ted would have disliked it. The trail joined with the bypass, and soon I reached Heather Lake. For many, this beautiful alpine lake is their destination. I was still ahead of the day hikers, so I had the lake to myself. There is no camping allowed here, but plenty of spots to enjoy a snack or even lunch.
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After a short climb, I then dropped down toward the next pair of lakes. Aster Lake came into view first. This lake sits north of the trail and a bit lower. This lake also has a no-camping policy. After passing the pit toilet, I came to Emerald Lake. This lake does allow camping, and I could see a few tents scattered about at the designated site. It turns out a bear had wandered through earlier that morning, so being bear-aware was more than an academic suggestion. This site did have a bear locker, located right at the junction with the main trail and the trail that takes you to the campsites. I poked around the sites briefly. I still had about another 500 feet of elevation left to reach Pear Lake, and the trail was becoming more rocky as it neared the tree line.
I passed the junction to the Ranger Station, wondering if it was staffed. The views were stunning as the alpine terrain became more visible. Tiny patches of snow still clung to just a few spots high upon the northern nooks of the mountains. Before too long, Pear Lake came into view. This site was absolutely stunning. A blue alpine lake tucked in this bowl, surrounded by stark rocky spires. Some folks were already there as I explored the area for a possible campsite. A map of the designated sites was posted at the toilet. Since both of these lakes get enough visitors, NPS built composting toilets to minimize the impact. I found a good spot and tossed my poles down to claim it. Nearby, a hiker was relaxing, and I started chatting with him. He had camped at Emerald Lake and hiked up here this morning. I ate my lunch and enjoyed our conversation. He packed up to head back to his campsite, and I went over to mine to set it up. Once that chore was done, I slipped off my shoes and socks and enjoyed the surprisingly warm water for a bit. Some folks had brought bathing suits, and I wished I had my sandals to make wading less painful on my feet. I spent the rest of the afternoon alternating between relaxing under the shade of a tree, soaking up the views, and wandering around the lake.
Bowl and Kettle had gifted me some meals to try, and this time I brought their Crawfish Étouffée. I accidentally forgot the couple of rolls from Pyrenees Bakery, which I had hoped to pair with it. Oh well, I guess forgetting something was going to be a theme of this trip. I cooked up my meal, and thoroughly enjoyed it as I ate along the lake shore. It is a toss-up between this meal and their Chicken Tikka Masala as to my favorite (The Mexican Street Grits is also a yummy option). My phone’s battery was getting low. I went to grab my battery to charge it, only to discover I had left my cable in the car. At this point, I was the only person at the lake. I turned my phone off to save the remaining power. I didn’t need it for navigating back to the car, but I would like to take some photos along the way. I was more bummed that I wasn’t going to do any astro-photography.
A father and son rolled into the lake; unfortunately, they did not have a cable. They opted to set up camp on the western side of the lake, up on the hill. There, they discovered that there was indeed a bear locker at the lake even though the map did not indicate one. Right around dusk, a group of 6 came in. I chatted with them, pointing out the various options that might work for a group of their size. This was their first night on a multi-day trip into Table Meadows. As the sun set, I bid them good night and crawled into my tent. It took a bit to fall asleep, but sleep finally did come. I woke up a few times, and once the moon had set, I powered my phone back on to snap a couple of photos of the Milky Way.
I awoke again in the pre-dawn and made breakfast by the lake shore. As I sat there in just my sun hoodie and pants, I reflected on how lucky I was to be able to experience all of this. I packed up and set off down the trail. I turned my phone back on, but kept my tracking disabled to conserve power. At Emerald Lake, I chatted with a camper retrieving his stuff from the bear locker. It turns out, he was the one who saw the bear yesterday, almost right where we were standing. After a good 10 minutes of chatting, I bid him farewell, as I still had some miles to cover and a long drive home. Those miles went quickly; a slightly lighter pack and a lot of downhill helped.
I stopped briefly at The Watchtower before continuing my descent. I started to wonder when I might encounter my first day hikers, and around the junction with The Hump, I did. Then, once I passed the junction to Panther Gap, hoards of trail runners came up the trail. I lost count of how many; I would put it over 50 stretched out along the trail. It was clearly some training run for high schoolers, with a few coaches/adults from time to time. I would step aside again and again as they passed. Some were polite, others not so much. Finally, after about a mile of this, the last runner passed me. I thought it odd that there was not a coach or some adult acting as sweep, just one lone girl plodding up the trail. I passed more day hikers, and even a trio of backpackers making their way up. Soon, I reached the junction to take me back to the Wolverton Trailhead, and my trip came to an end. I recorded my time, knowing I could recreate my return track once I got home. I changed into some clean clothes, retrieved my cooler, and began the long drive home. I stopped at the Giant Forest Visitor Center for another stamp in my passport book. I mentioned to the ranger the large group of trail runners and the hikers with a dog on the trail. He rolled his eyes and sighed. Being so understaffed meant there was little they could do about either issue. I thanked him for what he could do to preserve the park and headed down the road. I stopped at the Foothill Visitor Center to get my final stamp before leaving. Unfortunately, I did not realize until I was home that I needed to swap out my Junior Ranger badge for the new wooden one. After refueling both the car and my stomach in Bakersfield, I stopped at Benji’s to bring some Basque food home for myself. The rest of the long drive was uneventful, just a lot of podcasts to pass the time. The final stats were 12.8 miles in 6:55 and 2,749 feet of gain.
I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!
In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).
I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.