The goal for this weekend’s adventure was to summit White Mountain Peak, California’s third-highest peak at 14,252 feet. The day began early, with a drive from San Diego to Big Pine, where Ted Markus and I stopped for lunch and to top off the gas tank. We took CA-168 up until the junction with White Mountain Road. The twisting road climbed ever higher. We passed Grandview Campground, where I had stayed before backpacking Little Lake Valley several years ago. At Sierra View Overlook, we pulled off and took a short stroll to take in the vista.
From there, we drove on to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest Visitor Center. We gathered our gear and set off to hike the Methuselah Trail to start getting used to the altitude. Once done with that spectacular loop, we began the 16-mile drive to the White Mountain Peak trailhead, where we would camp for the night. As you leave the pavement behind, a sign warns drivers of sharp rocks, to check your spare tire, and there is also no cell service, no AAA service, and a minimum tow cost of $1,000. In front of the visitor center, they keep a tally of flat tires, so this warning should be taken seriously. Since I have upgraded the tires on the Outback and have a can of Fix-a-Flat, we set off. The road wasn’t too bad-almost no ruts; you just had to be mindful of the rocks. After about an hour, we reached the trailhead. It was then that I realized I had forgotten my leveling blocks, so I looked for the flattest spot I could find and hoped for the best. Ted set up his tent, and I unloaded the rest of the car. We relaxed a bit and discussed the plan for tomorrow’s hike. The parking lot had a few other cars, including a MiniCooper Countryman! Proving the road isn’t difficult; one just needs to be careful. I chatted with some of the other campers; one was from New York, out peakbagging, and four researchers who were tracking sheep. We enjoyed a nice dinner and a beverage. A few more cars arrived throughout the evening. The winds stayed calm, and we drifted off to sleep.
Around 3 am, I heard some hikers getting ready to head off, but I rolled back over and dozed until 4, our planned wake-up time. We partially broke camp and passed the locked gate a bit after 5 am. The eastern sky was slowly changing color in the predawn as we followed the road up to the Bancroft Research Station. We got the first glimpse of the sun rising just before we reached the station. This station, run by the University of California, was built for high-altitude research but appeared to be unstaffed at this time. While I had shed my wind shell earlier, Ted stopped here to peel off his. We climbed past the small observatory and got our first real sighting of White Mountain in the distance. Our route descended into a small valley before continuing upward toward the summit.
The road continued northward across the treeless terrain. Marmots would appear from time to time as we pushed on. Ted would call out our elevation from time to time, but beyond that, not much conversation was had between us. My previous elevation record was 12,637 feet atop Humphreys Peak in Arizona, while Ted had reached the summit of Pikes Peak (14,115 feet). We cruised along the trail, steadily climbing. Around the four-mile mark, we took a short break. We were still feeling good, but we could see the switchbacks ahead and knew the effort would increase.
The trail lost about 300 feet of elevation, dropping just below 13,000 feet. As we descended toward this small saddle, we knew we would feel this climb upon our return. Once we reached the switchbacks, I stayed focused on the trail and tried not to stare at the research hut atop the summit. Off in the distance, I spotted a few sheep, almost invisible against the rocky terrain. I took a breather partway for a few minutes before pushing on. With the main switchbacks behind us, the trail continued north before making one last major turn back toward the summit.
While we had seen a few snow patches off-trail from time to time, the main trail crossed a small snowfield here. The snow was still firm, and crossing it was fairly straightforward. From there, we pushed on the last 3/10th of a mile to the summit. We had made it! I slipped off my pack and relaxed in front of the research hut, while Ted photographed the views. A short time later, two more hikers joined us (one had hiked up with her dog!) The views were outstanding as we had a very clear day. We could gaze deep into Nevada to the east, and the Sierra filled our view to the west. White Mountain is the 3rd-highest peak in California and the 20th 14’er in the lower 48, at 14,252 feet.
Once recharged after some snacks, electrolytes, and some conversation with the other hikers who had made the summit, we set off back down the mountain. We opted to skip crossing the snowfield again and took a use trail that was just before it. Apart from being mindful of our footing on the rockier parts of the road, the descent went fairly well until we hit that first steep climb after the switchbacks. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long. From time to time, we would pass other hikers making their ascents. We told them about the snowfield and the option to bypass it if they wanted to. Around the White Mountain Wilderness sign, we met a gentleman who was trying to ride his mountain bike. He was just about to turn around when the altitude and the rocky terrain proved too much. We told him to push on a bit more to the point just before the road dips down to enjoy that view, then turn back. We also passed the hikers who had left at 3 am, still working their way up.
After the climb back up to the observatory, I needed a break. So, I wandered over to the dome and slipped off my pack. I mixed up some more electrolytes and drank them down. That seemed to do the trick, and we set off back down the mountain again. While it had warmed up slightly, the breeze kept it fairly pleasant overall. Soon, the trailhead came back into view, and our epic adventure was complete. We changed into some clean clothes, enjoyed a cold Coca-Cola, and then repacked the Outback for the long drive home. Once we reached Lone Pine, we stopped at The Pizza Factory for a late lunch. I logged the hike at 15.25 miles in 8:16, with a total elevation gain of 3,178 feet.
I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!
In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).
I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.
