Visiting Airplane Monument

With another big adventure coming up soon, I did not want to tackle anything significant but still wanted to hit the trail. With the recently launched Cuyamaca Trail Trekker Challenge, hiking up to Airplane Monument seemed like a perfect option. I drove up to Green Valley Falls and paid my $10 day use fee. A sign on the kiosk informed visitors that the falls were bone dry. I then drove down to the trailhead and gathered my gear. The trail passed the small amphitheater as it began its climb. It had been warm the past few days, so I was actually hiking in shorts to keep a touch cooler, even in this early morning.

This trail linked up with the West Mesa Trail and continued to climb. From time to time, I could peer past the vegetation and gaze at the East Mesa and even the highway.

As I drew near the monument, trail signs guided me first to the right, then a short distance later to the left. Down a small connector trail sits the mounted V-12 engine from a twin-seat Army DeHaviland DH4B model biplane that crashed back in 1921. Both U.S. Army pilot First Lieutenant Charles F. Webber and U.S. Cavalry Colonel Francis C. Marshall lost their lives when, in the fog, coupled with a failing engine, they were unable to clear the mountain. This memorial was erected in their memory.

I moved the wooden Airplane Ridge High Point sign off to the side to take my photos. I considered relocating it to the actual high point, which is actually about ½ mile up Airplane Ridge. But since I was wearing shorts and I didn’t want to venture off trail to reach the proper spot, I left it behind. After a few photos and a moment of reflection, I headed back down the trail. I briefly entertained the idea of also doing Oakzanita Peak, which is on the challenge, but the day was heating up. Soon I was back at the car and heading to REI to get some fuel for my upcoming backpacking trip. The final stats for this jaunt were 3.6 miles in 1:20, with 802 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. I’ve also conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Conquering White Mountain

The goal for this weekend’s adventure was to summit White Mountain Peak, California’s third-highest peak at 14,252 feet. The day began early, with a drive from San Diego to Big Pine, where Ted Markus and I stopped for lunch and to top off the gas tank. We took CA-168 up until the junction with White Mountain Road. The twisting road climbed ever higher. We passed Grandview Campground, where I had stayed before backpacking Little Lake Valley several years ago. At Sierra View Overlook, we pulled off and took a short stroll to take in the vista.

From there, we drove on to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest Visitor Center. We gathered our gear and set off to hike the Methuselah Trail to start getting used to the altitude. Once done with that spectacular loop, we began the 16-mile drive to the White Mountain Peak trailhead, where we would camp for the night. As you leave the pavement behind, a sign warns drivers of sharp rocks, to check your spare tire, and there is also no cell service, no AAA service, and a minimum tow cost of $1,000. In front of the visitor center, they keep a tally of flat tires, so this warning should be taken seriously. Since I have upgraded the tires on the Outback and have a can of Fix-a-Flat, we set off. The road wasn’t too bad-almost no ruts; you just had to be mindful of the rocks. After about an hour, we reached the trailhead. It was then that I realized I had forgotten my leveling blocks, so I looked for the flattest spot I could find and hoped for the best. Ted set up his tent, and I unloaded the rest of the car. We relaxed a bit and discussed the plan for tomorrow’s hike. The parking lot had a few other cars, including a MiniCooper Countryman! Proving the road isn’t difficult; one just needs to be careful. I chatted with some of the other campers; one was from New York, out peakbagging, and four researchers who were tracking sheep. We enjoyed a nice dinner and a beverage. A few more cars arrived throughout the evening. The winds stayed calm, and we drifted off to sleep.

Around 3 am, I heard some hikers getting ready to head off, but I rolled back over and dozed until 4, our planned wake-up time. We partially broke camp and passed the locked gate a bit after 5 am. The eastern sky was slowly changing color in the predawn as we followed the road up to the Bancroft Research Station. We got the first glimpse of the sun rising just before we reached the station. This station, run by the University of California, was built for high-altitude research but appeared to be unstaffed at this time. While I had shed my wind shell earlier, Ted stopped here to peel off his. We climbed past the small observatory and got our first real sighting of White Mountain in the distance. Our route descended into a small valley before continuing upward toward the summit.

The road continued northward across the treeless terrain. Marmots would appear from time to time as we pushed on. Ted would call out our elevation from time to time, but beyond that, not much conversation was had between us. My previous elevation record was 12,637 feet atop Humphreys Peak in Arizona, while Ted had reached the summit of Pikes Peak (14,115 feet). We cruised along the trail, steadily climbing. Around the four-mile mark, we took a short break. We were still feeling good, but we could see the switchbacks ahead and knew the effort would increase.

The trail lost about 300 feet of elevation, dropping just below 13,000 feet. As we descended toward this small saddle, we knew we would feel this climb upon our return. Once we reached the switchbacks, I stayed focused on the trail and tried not to stare at the research hut atop the summit. Off in the distance, I spotted a few sheep, almost invisible against the rocky terrain. I took a breather partway for a few minutes before pushing on. With the main switchbacks behind us, the trail continued north before making one last major turn back toward the summit.

While we had seen a few snow patches off-trail from time to time, the main trail crossed a small snowfield here. The snow was still firm, and crossing it was fairly straightforward. From there, we pushed on the last 3/10th of a mile to the summit. We had made it! I slipped off my pack and relaxed in front of the research hut, while Ted photographed the views. A short time later, two more hikers joined us (one had hiked up with her dog!) The views were outstanding as we had a very clear day. We could gaze deep into Nevada to the east, and the Sierra filled our view to the west. White Mountain is the 3rd-highest peak in California and the 20th 14’er in the lower 48, at 14,252 feet.

Once recharged after some snacks, electrolytes, and some conversation with the other hikers who had made the summit, we set off back down the mountain. We opted to skip crossing the snowfield again and took a use trail that was just before it. Apart from being mindful of our footing on the rockier parts of the road, the descent went fairly well until we hit that first steep climb after the switchbacks. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long. From time to time, we would pass other hikers making their ascents. We told them about the snowfield and the option to bypass it if they wanted to. Around the White Mountain Wilderness sign, we met a gentleman who was trying to ride his mountain bike. He was just about to turn around when the altitude and the rocky terrain proved too much. We told him to push on a bit more to the point just before the road dips down to enjoy that view, then turn back. We also passed the hikers who had left at 3 am, still working their way up.

After the climb back up to the observatory, I needed a break. So, I wandered over to the dome and slipped off my pack. I mixed up some more electrolytes and drank them down. That seemed to do the trick, and we set off back down the mountain again. While it had warmed up slightly, the breeze kept it fairly pleasant overall. Soon, the trailhead came back into view, and our epic adventure was complete. We changed into some clean clothes, enjoyed a cold Coca-Cola, and then repacked the Outback for the long drive home. Once we reached Lone Pine, we stopped at The Pizza Factory for a late lunch. I logged the hike at 15.25 miles in 8:16, with a total elevation gain of 3,178 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Hiking the Methuselah Trail

High up in the mountains above Owens Valley, a 45-minute drive from Big Pine, California, sits the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. Ted and I drove up the winding White Mountain Road, about 10 miles from CA 168. Our plan was to stop at Schulman Grove and hike the Methuselah Trail in order to acclimatize a bit before attempting to hike up White Mountain the next day. Along the way, we made a brief stop at Sierra View Vista and walked the short trail to take in the expansive views of the Sierra. I continued driving up the paved road, climbing just over 10,000 feet in elevation. We stopped at the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest Visitor Center and showed our pass to the staff before hitting the trail. I had been here before and hiked the Cabin Loop Trail, but did not do the Methuselah Trail.

We left the beautiful visitor center and headed down the trail. After about 300 yards, we came to a junction. From time to time, a bench would be set beside the trail to give out-of-breath hikers a place to rest and soak up the views. Off to the east, we could see down into Deep Springs Valley, then onto the Last Chance Range, and beyond that, Nevada.

On the north-facing slopes, we would find the bristlecone pines. Since the north slopes retain snow longer, they can absorb additional moisture. In addition, there is no underbrush to compete with for the limited resources for their growth. These factors are key components to their longevity.

After descending for about 1.7 miles, we came to the Methuselah Grove. Here, the bristlecone pines cluster in large numbers, growing seemingly right out of the chalky sandstone. Somewhere in this grove is the oldest living tree, at over 5,000 years old. Some of the dead trees have been dated to over 10,000 years old. Once we left the grove, we began the climb back toward the visitor center. Neither of us wanted to take the longer route, which would have taken us along the Cabin Loop Trail, as we still had another hour of driving to our intended campsite. The entire loop was 4.1 miles in 1:58, with 643 feet of elevation gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Exploring the Picture Canyon Trail

I realized when I was hiking in Yosemite that my trail runners had hiked on portions of the Appalachian Trail while I was visiting Shenandoah National Park and the Pacific Crest Trail. I mused, could I have them hike the “Triple Crown” by hiking a portion of the Continental Divide Trail? I doubted I could make that happen, but maybe another scenic trail? They also hiked some of the John Muir Trail… Well, over the Fourth of July weekend, my wife and I spent it in Flagstaff with a friend from college and her husband. We hiked the Picture Canyon Trail, which also included a portion of the Arizona Scenic Trail.

We decided to hike the nearby Picture Canyon Trail to kick off our time in Flagstaff. This trail is relatively flat and has several points of interest along it. From the trailhead, we opted to follow the loop counterclockwise. Down in a small, narrow canyon, water flowed over the volcanic rocks. After about 0.6 miles, we connected with the Arizona Scenic Trail. Achievement unlocked for my shoes! 🙂 We crossed over the Rio De Flag Bridge, then left the AZT to view the Waterbird Petroglyph site.

After viewing them, we began to loop back around. Unfortunately, the air was also starting to turn, as the winds had shifted and the smoke from the Pocket Fire was now starting to arrive. When the trail we were on crossed the AZT again, the ladies stayed on the Tom Moody Trail for a shorter route back to the trailhead, while the guys hopped back on the AZT. After about 0.6 miles, we came to the junction with the Don Weaver Trail. This trail took us past the remains of an indigenous dwelling known as the Pithouse and an overlook. We soon found ourselves back at the car. This easy loop was 4.3 miles long and took us 1:49.

After lunch, we headed into downtown Flagstaff, where I stopped into Evolved Supply Co. While Darwin was not in, I enjoyed chatting with some of the staff. Unfortunately, the pot I wanted to buy was sold out (I placed an order online).

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Backpacking Yosemite High Sierra Camps

Originally, I had a permit to hike the Yosemite High Sierra Camp loop in July, but my summer plans changed, and I could no longer go due to classes. Thankfully, I was able to score one during my break between them. I drove up to Lee Vining, checked into my room, then made my way to the Whoa Nellie Deli for some fish tacos. Afterward, I watched the sun fade over Mono Lake. The next morning, I grabbed breakfast at Nicely’s, then checked out and grabbed a turkey sandwich for later. The drive up over Tioga Pass is always stunning. Bits of snow clung to the tops of some of the peaks. I pulled into the parking lot at the Wilderness permit station and quickly got my permit. The plan was to camp at each of the five High Sierra Camps; the ranger did caution me that the mosquitoes were bad at Sunrise and Vogelsang. I shouldered my pack and set off. Since I had hiked this section last year, I had less anxiety about what lay ahead.

As I reached the parking lot for Lambert Dome, some PCT hikers were looking for a hitch down the road. I inquired about how Glen Pass was, and they confirmed that it was not too bad, but you needed to tackle it early before it became slushy. I wished them well on their journey and continued on.

The hike down to Glen Aulin is pretty mellow, as it mostly follows the Tuolumne River. I stopped at Soda Springs, then at Parsons Lodge. Crews were doing some trail work nearby, and I thanked them for their efforts. From time to time, hikers passed me as they headed back to the meadow. After crossing the first bridge, I took a short snack break, watching the water flow by.

The trail worked its way past a few small waterfalls before finally reaching the bridge that would cross back across the Tuolumne and into Glen Aulin. I decided to see if the site I used last time was open, and it was. A couple from Florida was nearby, but I was respectfully far enough away. After setting up my tent, I ate that sandwich, then stored my pack in one of the lockers. For the afternoon, I relaxed and, after a short nap, wandered down to enjoy the views. A PCT thru-hiker joined me and a couple from Florida on the ledge and set up camp. He went by Casper and finally realized his dream of hiking the whole trail. Dinner was a Chili Mac meal, but I brought some homemade cornbread to have with it. With a full stomach, I turned in, knowing I had a modest climb tomorrow to the next camp.

I awoke around dawn and enjoyed breakfast before packing up. Crossing back over the Tuolumne, almost all of today’s hike would be a steady climb up to May Lake. Again, with less anxiety about the trail, I kept it at a more mellow pace. Some of the smaller streams were almost dry, but I still had a few stream crossings to make. I met another hiker making their way from May Lake. We chatted for a bit, and she confirmed that the bugs at Sunrise were awful, and some hikers actually left due to the mosquitoes. Great, not the news I wanted to hear. We wished each other well on our respective hikes.

I took a snack break at the same spot as last time, just being mindful not to lose my tripod this time. The trail becomes a bit more exposed, so that early start helped. I focused on my pace as the climb also became steeper. Before too long, I spied May Lake peeking through the trees. To my amazement, there were workers reassembling the actual camp! I wondered if they were going to reopen just this one or more? There were several large groups set up, so I scouted around for a spot that would give me a little space. Once set up, I enjoyed the area again. The bugs were minimal, so I could really just relax. The deeper question in my mind was the bugs at Sunrise (and the climb up to it). There actually is cell service here, so I let Anita know I might change plans and would keep her posted.

For dinner, I had Chicken Tikka Masala from Bowl and Kettle. They had sent me some of their meals to enjoy on this trek. I had this one before and could not wait to dive in. I also packed in some naan from Trader Joe’s to have with it. As I ate my meal, the sun slowly retreated behind Mt. Hoffman. After a hard day, I turned in and began debating my options for tomorrow.

I awoke again before dawn and quickly packed up. I decided to skip breakfast and just have a bar and some electrolytes before heading down to Tenya Lake. The early morning sun shone on Half Dome to the west. Once I reached the May Lake Trailhead, I dumped some trash before continuing on.

Once at Tenya Lake and the Sunrise Trailhead, I took a break and made breakfast. The parking lot was pretty full, as this trailhead is the one to Clouds Rest, a hike I have on my list. The trail stayed mellow for a while. Fresh bear scat was on the trail. I took a photo to denote the location for the rangers. Soon, the trail would begin its climb to Sunrise Lake. Even being very mindful of my pace, I actually caught some day hikers. At the trail junction for Clouds Rest, I took a snack break. Those day hikers caught back up, and some continued on to what I have heard is one of the most epic views in the park, while one pair headed on to the lake for some fishing.

I reached the first lake, and it was another stunning sight. After carefully crossing the outflow, I continued past the other two lakes before the last small climb. One tiny patch of snow remained on the trail just before I began my descent toward Sunrise HSC. I had chatted with some of the hikers passing in the other direction, and they validated the intensity of the bugs.

I crossed over a small stream to be rewarded with an incredible vista of the meadow and snow-capped mountains beyond. At a minimum, I knew this would be an outstanding lunch spot. As I ate, I debated whether to continue down to Merced HSC or hop on the John Muir Trail past Cathedral Lakes back to Tuolumne. Since the mosquitoes weren’t too bad at the moment, I found a nice site and made camp. It was just too beautiful not to try to stay. Plus, the lockers and pit toilet weren’t too far away. I slipped into my tent for a nap. When I awoke, there were certainly more mosquitoes buzzing around my tent. I ventured out to see the actual HSC and refill my water bottles.

I dove back into my tent, killing a few that snuck in. I slipped on my headphones and began catching up on some podcasts. Maybe I should have pushed on to Merced HSC? But it was a bit too late in the day to hike the 10 miles, plus I also heard it wasn’t exactly bug-free either. If I had had some company, it might have been easier to pass the time. For dinner, I had another meal from Bowl and Kettle, this time their Sweet Corn Grits. More mosquitoes were now buzzing about, so I ate in the tent. While I might have southern roots, grits were never my thing, but this dinner rocked!

I was glad I had downloaded some Netflix to watch as the sun slowly set. After another quick run to refresh my water and store my gear in the locker, I waited for the sun to dip behind the trees before turning in. A quarter moon was up and shining bright. I had to slip my beanie down to block the light. I still wasn’t sure about tomorrow’s adventure, so for now I just enjoyed the moment.

I awoke before dawn, in part to pack up before the mosquitoes came out. I took a moment to make breakfast and relish in the view. I finished packing, topped off my water, and set off. I had decided to exit. Spending the afternoon trapped in my tent was not my idea of fun at the next two sites.

Frost covered the meadow as I headed northward. While I had about 10 miles to get back to the car, it was mostly going to be downhill, except for a small climb over Cathedral Pass. The imposing Columbia Finger stood towering before me. Once over the pass, I soon passed Cathedral Lakes. The mosquitoes were back out, and other backpackers passed, some with bug nets on. I had mine ready just in case. Since the trail was mellow, I enjoyed my snack on the go to avoid being swarmed.

Once past the lake, I started passing more day hikers coming to enjoy it. As the miles slipped past, I reflected on the past four days and was pleased with the adventure. Once back at the meadow, I headed to the store and grabbed a soda. I sat on the bench out front, watching the various PCT hikers milling about. Some repacked their resupply boxes, while others were enjoying a breakfast burrito. I still had a long drive home, so I did not linger any longer.

Back at the car, I tossed my pack in the back and changed into some fresh clothes before setting off. I hit Copper Top BBQ in Big Pine for lunch and Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ for some bread. All told, even with the mosquitoes, this was still a fantastic four days exploring Yosemite. Maybe I can grab another permit once the bugs are less of a problem and do a point-to-point hike from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, then to Merced, and finally to the Valley. Just need a shuttle bus running or another way to get back.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Returning to Sawmill Mountain

My son wanted to get away for the weekend, so I suggested that we head up toward Los Padres and camp at McGill Campground. After a small mix-up with the campground reservation, we got an even better site. After setting up, we relaxed a bit before cooking dinner, then continued relaxing by the campfire. The next morning, I made the short drive to Nordic Base to hike out to Sawmill Mountain.

I had considered Antimony Peak, but I was still nursing some calf tightness, and thought I should stick to a trail I knew well. I kept my pace a bit more on the mellow side; there was no need to set a PR. Before too long, the communication tower atop Mt. Pinos came into view. I swung by Ventura County’s high point, snapped a few photos, and motored on.

Quite a few Snow Plants dotted the sides of the trail. Usually, I might see one or two, but this time there were a lot more. A nice breeze kept the hike refreshing as I made my way down the saddle, then up toward Sawmill. Just as I was approaching the massive cairn, I met two hikers. We chatted a bit; they were off to hike Grouse Mountain for the 3-2-1 challenge. At the summit, I snapped a few photos and grabbed a snack. Leaving the summit, I met a trail runner who was hoping to make it all the way to Cerro Norteste. I wished him well on his run and continued back to the trailhead. I met a few other hikers along the way. When I got back to my car, I discovered that something went wrong with my recording. Drat! I was curious to see how long I had been moving, and I only had my total time (I stopped a few times for longer conversations with some of those hikers).

Once back at the campground, we packed up the car and headed off for the next adventure. We grabbed some tri-tip sandwiches from the market, then drove to the top of Frazier Mountain. The road was manageable. There were some rocky sections, but nothing too bothersome with good off-road tires. At the summit, we broke out the chairs and enjoyed both the view and the sandwiches. Afterward, we explored the abandoned fire lookout tower before heading back down the mountain and finally home.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Ascending Spitler Peak

When I was backpacking along the Desert Divide section of the PCT, I was able to “side quest” and climb a few of the HPS peaks that lay near the trail. However, there were a couple that I skipped for various reasons. So, today I decided to head back and cross one of them off the list. I settled on Spitler Peak as the day’s goal. I turned off Highway 74 and on Fobes Ranch Road. The road had recently been graded, but I still had to be a bit mindful, and avoid a few rocks from time to time. I came to a locked gate after about 3.5 miles of driving. Just before the gate was a wide spot to park. According to the map, this is where the road used to go, but it is now blocked by large rocks.

I gathered my gear, remembered to put up my sunshade, and set off along the abandoned road. After about 1/2 mile, the road ended, and the actual trail took over. My route would now climb toward Fobes Saddle, where I would rejoin the PCT. The trail was in pretty good condition. There were a couple of turns that were slightly confusing, so I built some cairns to help guide others.

Once at the saddle, I turned northward to continue the climb toward Spitler Peak. As I made my way along the trail, it was certainly easier without my full backpack, having already hiked about 16 miles. The peak came into view, and I began looking for cairns that might indicate a route up its steep slope. I didn’t remember seeing any when I passed by it last time, and that still held true this time. So, I looked for a clear, straightforward path to get started on the ascent. When I say steep, I mean like 30-50% slope! I kept pushing on, knowing the summit wasn’t actually that far off the trail. I checked my position and adjusted my ascent route slightly to reach the proper summit. Once at the summit, I slipped off my pack and took in the views. During the ascent, my left calf began to ache, so I mixed up some electrolytes to see if that might help. After a snack, some more photos, I signed the register and headed back down.

Back on the PCT, I retraced my route back to Fobes Saddle. Along the way, I enjoyed the wildflowers that still dotted the sides of the trail. At the saddle, there was a box marked “trail magic”; it was actually filled with trash from thru-hikers. I gathered some up and stuffed them into my pack to haul out. My calf continued to ache, but I managed to keep hiking down the trail. When I was back on the abandoned road, I spotted a gopher snake in the shade, but upon looking closer, I saw that a smaller rattlesnake had attacked it and was latched onto it. As I gave it a wide berth, I wondered how that tiny rattler was going to handle much larger prey?

The day had warmed up, and the breeze usually kept it pleasant, but as the car came back into view, I was glad to be done. My calf was certainly going to need some attention once I got home, but first, I had to hit Paradise Valley Café for a well-earned lunch. The final stats for the hike were 7.5 miles in 4:22 with 2,294 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

A hike up Hawksbill Mountain

Despite a sore calf, I decided to try to make the short hike up Hawksbill Mountain. I parked at the trailhead, gathered my gear, and began strolling up the trail. Thankfully, the grade was mild and did not aggravate my calf too much.

I passed a deer enjoying the grass, looking at the passing hikers without a care in the world. Soon, I approached the day-use hut and was greeted with a sweeping view of the Shenandoah Valley. The true summit lay about 50 yards to the north, and I hiked over to it. There, a stone platform had been built back in the 1930s by the CCC. I chatted with a family from Ohio for a bit before heading back down.

It was now late enough to check in to the Lodge where I was staying for the night. Once settled in, I grabbed a beer and sat outside and soaked in the views. How I wish Anita were with m

The hike up Hawksbill was 2.1 miles in 1:10 with 348 feet of gain. It was also my third national park high point!

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Hiking a loop through Shenandoah National Park

I awoke to my ears still ringing from last night’s Bruce Springsteen concert (or maybe just my regular tinnitus) and quickly packed up and checked out. Today’s plan was to drive out to Shenandoah National Park. Once past the DC traffic, I cruised through the Virginia countryside. Once on Skyland Drive, I headed south toward Big Meadows and the visitor center there. Along the way, I would pull over at one of the many overlooks to marvel at the views. At the visitor center, I stamped my passport book and picked up my Junior Ranger booklet. The plan for the morning was to make a nice loop from there down to Dark Hollow Falls, then up past Rose River Falls. From there, I planned to work my way over to the Big Meadows lodge for lunch, then down to Lewis Spring Falls before finally returning to the visitor center.

The creek flowed next to the trail as I made my way down toward the falls. It had been raining for the past week, so everything was still damp. The falls were lovely, and a few folks were milling about, taking in their beauty. I continued on down the trail, still marveling at everything. From time to time, I had to deal with water running along the trail. A few spots took some care, as I was without my trekking poles. The trail then turned upward toward the next major falls, Rose River. Once there, I took another break and enjoyed them.

Unfortunately, my left calf began to tighten. I drank some electrolytes and hoped that might address the issue. Once I reached the Rose River Trailhead, my route was now on the Appalachian Trail! As I worked my way toward the lodge at Big Meadows, I crossed paths with 4 different thru-hikers. I chatted with them briefly, and all were happy to have a break from the rain. The calf was getting better, but I knew I was going to be skipping the Lewis Springs Falls part of my hike.

After lunch and working on my Junior Ranger booklet, I made a quick trip up BlackRock Overlook. Once back at the visitor center and my Junior Ranger badge secured, I stopped at the general store next door and grabbed some bananas and another Gatorade. This adventure covered 7.5 miles in 3:47 and 1,464 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

Hiking the Panorama Loop

One of the day hikes I have always wanted to do was the Panorama Loop in Yosemite. Since I had the time, I made the drive up to El Portal and pitched my tent at the Indian Flat RV park, as I could not secure a site in the park proper. I drove into Yosemite Valley and grabbed one of the last parking spots for Bridalveil Falls. While we had a low snow year, the falls were still flowing nicely. After enjoying the light mist from the cascading water, I headed over to view Yosemite Falls, parking near Sentinel Bridge. From there, I walked over to follow the trail to view Lower Yosemite Falls. Along the way, I gazed up at Half Dome, knowing that I had once stood atop that majestic piece of granite. From the viewpoint of the falls, I strolled over to the Village Store to find a sticker or maybe a shirt. They had a nice “I made it to the top” sticker, so I grabbed one for myself and another for Ted. After looking for my dinner options, I settled on the Base Camp Eatery. Since tomorrow was going to be a long, hard day of hiking, I headed back to my tent to turn in.

I awoke just before dawn and quickly got ready, enjoying some oatmeal and a coffee. Again making the drive back into the valley, parking at the trailhead for the Four Mile Trail. The Panorama Loop is actually a combination of several trails: the Four Mile Trail, the Panorama Trail, and either the Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail. I chose to start on the Four Mile Trail, as it would have me ending near Curry Village. Two other cars were already parked alongside the road. This trailhead only had space for about 10 cars, so I was glad to be doing this hike before Memorial Day. Otherwise, I might have had to park on the other side of the valley and walk over, or wait for the shuttle buses to be running.

I gathered my pack and set off. The trail climbed up the wall of the valley, but at mostly a steady grade. Views of El Capitan and Yosemite Falls would appear from beyond the trees. My first destination was Union Point, offering an uninterrupted view of the valley. While I had gained a fair amount of elevation, I still had more to gain.

The trail swung southward, and Half Dome came into view for the first time. This also meant I was nearing my next destination, Glacier Point. After reaching it and chatting with some visitors about hiking up Half Dome, I headed to the store. I grabbed an ice cream sandwich and a soda. They also had pre-made sandwiches which sounded better than the tuna kit I had brought. Plus, it was mostly all downhill from here, so carrying a second lunch wasn’t going to be a burden. I enjoyed that ice cream out on the amphitheater, soaking in the stunning views. While I would have loved to just sit there for a long time, I still had a lot of miles to cover.

Now on the Panorama Trail, the vistas shifted to the Yosemite backcountry. Snow still clung to the mountain tops off in the distance. The trail crossed several small streams, some even flowing for a time on the trail itself. In a few weeks, I suspect they will be dry. Before too long, Illouette Falls came into view, which was my next stopping point. I took a short side trail to a viewpoint to marvel at them. This is actually the best place to view it, given how the water actually flows.

Once at the bridge over Illouette Creek, I took a short break. I initially thought I might have lunch there, but I was still full from that ice cream sandwich, so I decided to wait until Nevada Falls to enjoy it. Sadly, I saw the amount of trash scattered about the sandy beach, so I had to clean up what I could before continuing.

Now the trail would climb away from the falls. After about a mile and almost 600 feet of gain, I took another short trail to Panorama Point. I stood on an outcropping and took in the views. The trail leveled out for a while before descending toward Nevada Falls. I passed the closed junction to the John Muir Trail and found a nice shady spot near the river to enjoy my lunch. I took my time, soaking it all in. It was busy with groups of all kinds milling about.

That sandwich hit the spot, along with the Fritos, but it was time to descend down the Mist Trail. This was one part of the hike I was not looking forward to. This portion of the trail is steep and will also be crowded. Alas, there was no alternative, so down I went. This was also why I remembered to bring my rubber tips for my trekking poles to navigate the granite.

After crossing the river again at the Silver Apron, I left the Mist Trail to take the connector trail to Clark Point. This would allow me to bypass the crowds at Vernal Falls, and the wetter section of the Mist Trail. Upon reaching Clark Point, I was now back on the JMT. The final miles went quickly, and I was soon at Happy Isles Trailhead. I waited a bit for the shuttle to Curry Village, where a cold beer and some food awaited me, then decided to just make the flat one-mile walk. What’s one more mile after doing about 16?

At Bar 1899, the cold beer and pretzel bites were just what this hiker needed. I was also going to get a pizza, but there was a 45-minute wait, so I opted for a burrito instead. Since it was over two miles back to the car, I waited for the shuttle this time.

Finally back at the car, I changed into a dry shirt and made my way up to Tunnel View to enjoy the shadows slowly working their way across the valley. Again, this parking lot was almost at capacity. I can only imagine what Memorial Day Weekend would look like in a few days. As I looped back through the valley, I stopped at El Capitan Meadow. I decided to stroll out a bit, hoping to spot a climber’s headlamp on El Capitan. There, I ran into a gentleman with a nice spotter’s scope trained on a few climbers. He allowed me to look through it before he packed it away. He told me that those climbers were a 7-year-old attempting to become the youngest to climb El Cap and his brother, who was aiming to be the youngest to climb it twice (along with their support crew and father). To learn more about their successful climb, visit https://samadventure.com/.

It had been a long day, and while some astrophotography was tempting, I had a long drive home the next day. I awoke early and made breakfast while I finished packing up my site before making the drive home. The final stats for this hike were 15.5 miles, in 7:58 with over 4,507 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I co-authored Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I look forward to exploring new summits and adventures across the Southwest.

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