Conquering Humphreys Peak

With Bill Williams Mountain (9,256 ft.) and Kendrick Peak (10,418 ft.) climbed earlier in the week, it was time to attempt to summit the state’s highest point, Humphreys Peak (12,633 ft.). Having taken a rest day with a quick trip to the Grand Canyon, I was ready to finally set a new altitude record for myself. Afternoon rainstorms were not predicted, so I would not have to worry about any weather issues. I pulled into Lot 1 at the Arizona Snowbowl and gathered my gear. A few cars were there when I arrived. Unlike the faster paces I held on the other peaks, I planned to keep myself to a more measured pace.

The trail cut across the ski slope before entering the trees and beginning the climb toward the summit. I made my way along the western slope of Humphreys under the shade of the trees. Unlike Kendrick, the trail had more tree roots to be mindful of. Off to the south, some snow still remained, and the now dormant chairlift was visible. The trail made a steady climb toward the Humphreys-Agassiz saddle, my first real milestone for this hike. After 4.1 miles, I reached it! I stopped for a bit and took in the vista. Humphreys used to be about 4,000-5,000 feet taller, before it explosively blew its top long ago. To my east was the bowl that was created after that eruption. A few patches of snow were scattered about, but from recent trip reports, nothing was still on the trail.

The saddle is almost at the tree line, so for the last mile to the summit, I would be hiking under the Arizona sun. The trail also changed, as I was now hiking across mostly exposed rock. Wooden branches helped serve as trail markers to the summit, which lay to the north of the saddle. As I carefully made my way along the trail, the conditions reminded me of many of my hikes in Anza-Borrego, just not at 11,000+ feet. I passed two small snow fields as I continued my journey upward. Soon, I spotted the summit sign and knew I had made it. There was another hiker there when I arrived. He was getting ready to descend, but before he did, I asked him to snap a few photos of me at the summit. I wished him well on his descent, and he said to enjoy the almost calm summit. I found a nice spot to relax and enjoy some snacks. I marveled at the views from 12,633 feet. I could make out the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (although a nearby fire did make it a bit hazy) and the red rocks around Sedona to the south. Both Bill Williams and Kendrick were easily spotted to my west.

After a bit, another hiker reached the summit. Since I was almost ready to descend, I hurried up to allow him to also enjoy the solitude. The route down to the saddle went fairly well. As I neared the saddle, I started to encounter a few more folks making the push to the summit.

I saw that the two state high-pointers I passed during my ascent were still pushing along. I gave them a quick trail report before parting ways. The rest of the descent was uneventful, and I soon found myself crossing back across the ski slope and to my car. I know spending time in Flagstaff and doing those two other peaks helped me prepare for this ascent, but I was really happy at how well the entire hike went. After tossing my gear into the car and putting on a dry shirt, I drove back to Flagstaff and headed to Lumberyard Brewery for some well-earned food and drink. I tracked this hike at 10.2 miles in 6:07 (excluding time at the summit) and 3,369 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and Arizona-Winter). Beyond attempting the San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list a second time, I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Atop Kendrick Peak

I awoke about 3:30 in the morning to dead silence, as the power had gone out. I fell back to sleep until my alarm went off an hour later. Today I was planning to climb Kendrick Peak, about an hour’s drive from Flagstaff. I grabbed breakfast at McDonald’s and set off. After about 30 minutes, I turned off the highway and onto the forest road. The dirt road was in great shape. I could spot various campers tucked away in the forest. If I weren’t staying with good friends, I might have done the same. Pulling into the park area, there was one car parked, but being a Monday, that did not surprise me. The trailhead has pit toilets, but no water. I gathered my gear and set off. Since there were a few afternoon showers yesterday, and the possibility of some today, I wanted to have this early start.

The trail was in pretty good shape, with just an occasional tree to step over. This area had a forest fire back in 2000, and the forest is making a comeback. I had some nice views off to the west, I could even spy Bill Williams Mountain off in the distance. Just before the cabin, I met the owner of the car as he was returning from the summit. We chatted briefly before continuing on. I skipped visiting the cabin on the ascent, saving it for after my primary goal.

The trail made a series of switchbacks just before the summit, and soon the abandoned fire tower came into view. Unlike the tall tower atop Bill Williams, this lookout tower is low, and you can walk up the flight of stairs and walk around the outside. The interior of the tower is closed, but you can look inside to see what it was like for someone to staff it. I took in the sweeping views, lingering on Humphreys off to the southwest of me. In two days’ time, I planned to climb it. I picked a spot on the tower’s walkway to sit and enjoy a snack. Being mindful of the chance of showers, I did not linger too long. However, my rain shell did make a nice cushion while I took that break.

With the primary goal achieved, I made a short side trip to look at the cabin. The Kendrick Mountain cabin was built in 1912 as a place for fire lookouts to stay while watching for wildfires. The cabin was constructed atop Kendrick Mountain in a location that took advantage of the high elevation and provided commanding views to aid in wildfire detection. Firefighters wrapped the historic 1912 lookout cabin and the ruins of a smaller cabin with fire-resistant material. Helicopters doused the lookout tower with fire retardant. Both the historic cabin and lookout tower survived, but fire burned the smaller cabin ruins along the Pumpkin Trail.

When I was done looking at it and noting a nearby tent site, it was time to make my way back to the car. I slipped my AirPods and began flying down the trail. At one point, I met a hiker working his way up, so I removed my AirPods to be able to chat with him. After a short conversation, he continued up, and I headed down. As I slipped the AirPods back into my ears, the left one fell out. I immediately stopped and began looking for it. But it was nowhere to be seen! I tried having it play its location tune, which I could hear, but not well enough to actually locate. After 10 minutes of looking, I gave up. It must have bounced off the trail and gotten lost in the brush. Ugh! The rest of the hike went smoothly, and I was back at the car before I knew it. After tossing my gear in the car, I saw a sign for the Lava River Cave about 2 miles past the junction I took getting to the trailhead, so I decided to check it out.

I pulled into the parking lot, and it had a few more cars here. Along the way, I saw even more campers scattered through the forest. I unfortunately did not have a proper flashlight or headlamp to explore it beyond just what the natural light allowed. Something for the next visit to the area. For the actual hike, I did the 9.2 miles in 4:05 (including looking for that darn AirPod), with 2677 feet of gain. I think I will be ready to tackle the highest peak in Arizona in two days…

Climbing Bill Williams

After an uneventful night in Kingman, I made the drive eastward toward Williams, Arizona. The first peak on my itinerary was to hike up Bill Williams Mountain again. I had done this one back in 2021 and enjoyed it. The parking area had about 5 cars in it as I gathered my gear to set off on the straightforward hike up to the summit. The trail worked its way past the Ponderosa pines and oaks that dominate the start of the hike. The trail mostly heads along the south side of the mountain. The stream that was flowing the last time I hiked here was now dry.

I reached the junction with the Bixler Trail and knew that the summit was drawing near. The trees also changed, and while the Ponderosa Pines became bigger, Douglas Fir, Spruce, and Quaking Aspen now also lined the slopes of the mountain. Soon, the trail reached the service road, and I remembered to use the trail to avoid some of the road walking I did the first time I summited.

The various communication towers stood above me as I headed to the closed fire lookout tower. A mom, her son, and their dog were just leaving as I climbed the ladder to soak in the views. The actual tower is closed, so stopping at one of the landings would be the best I could do. I found a couple of the reference marks, but the benchmark is long gone. After a snack and some filming, I set off back down the mountain.

The descent went smoothly, and I greeted a few other hikers along the way. As I drew near the trailhead, my thoughts turned to lunch in town. My friends who I would be staying with recommended the Grand Canyon Brewery, and I certainly wasn’t going to say no to a post-hike beer! Just as I got back to the car, a few drops of rain began to fall. It is the start of that weather pattern, so early starts were going to be the rule for this trip. I recorded this hike as 7.9 miles, with 2392 feet of gain. Excluding the time at the summit, the total time was 3:45, which was dramatically faster than the time before. I will take that as a good sign, as I have two hard peaks planned.

Strolling through the Saguaros

After spending the evening looking up at the night sky atop Kitt Peak, I still got up early enough to get in a morning hike out in Saguaro National Park. I drove out to the Broadway Gate Trailhead and saw that this was a popular one, as cars lined both sides of the road. After finding a spot, I grabbed my gear and headed to the trailhead. Three different trails share this trailhead, so the popularity makes sense. A volunteer was standing at the junction, so I checked in with him about my route, and he wished me happy hiking. My plan was to link together a collection of trails to total about 5 miles. I headed southward along the Cactus Forest trail, passing the occasional fellow hiker. The trail junctions are well marked, so I was only pulling out my phone to take a photo.

I then turned eastward onto the Cholla Trail, which would take me to the Squeeze Pen Trail. Along the way, I spotted a good-sized road runner. Unfortunately, my hands were full and I could not get a photo before it ran away. At the junction with the Squeeze Pen Trail, I began hiking northward. Here, some of the saguaro were flowering, so that was a delightful sight to see.

Once I reached the Pink Hill Trail, I joined it and started heading west. I followed the small spur to the top of the hill. After taking in the view of the wide, flat desert, I rejoined the Pink Hill Trail. It crossed a few washes, but soon it connected with the Shantz Trail, which brought me back to the starting point. I let the volunteer know about the flowering saguaro along the Squeeze Pen Trail, then headed back to the car. My loop covered 5.24 miles with 180 feet of gain in 1:41. I headed over to the visitor center to pick up my Junior Ranger badge and another “I Hiked for Health” pin!

Early morning in Alamo Canyon

After finishing up my hikes that afternoon, it was time to head over to my campsite. I had secured one of the four sites at the Alamo Canyon Primitive Campground. Finding the site was not easy, as I drove right by the turn-off and had to double back to make the 3-mile drive down the dirt road. I pulled into my spot and quickly got to setting up my Luno Mattress. I could not find the nozzle for the compressor, so I had to hold it carefully to each valve to inflate them. I found the nozzle the next morning when packing up, under the folded back seat. How it got there is a mystery. I opted to bring a sandwich for dinner and skip a dehydrated meal or the hassle of any real cooking. I sat and watched an incredible sunset, and actually ran around looking for some nice saguaro to frame in the fading light. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument does not allow campfires, so when the darkness comes, it comes. Soon, Orion came into view, low in the western skies. I spent some time working on my astrophotography. I am slowly understanding AstroShader, the app I use for these experiments. Shortly, the effort of the two hikes and the drive told me it was time to crawl into my car and get some sleep.

Around 4 am, I woke up and decided to crawl out and grab a few more photos, as the Milky Way was now visible in the night sky. I slept for a couple more hours before the morning light crept through the window. I made a simple breakfast of oatmeal before heading out to hike the Alamo Canyon Trail. I was technically 0.12 miles shy of the required 5 miles to earn that “I hiked the green desert” pin. This 1.8 round trip trail is fairly flat, so those miles wouldn’t be an issue, and there is an old house and corral to be seen along the trail as well.

The trail worked its way along the north side of the wash, passing a variety of cacti, including some Organ Pipe Cactus. The morning light offered some great photos. I came to the old house first and poked around it some, but I was on a bit of a timetable. I crossed through the wash and quickly reached the corral. I snapped a few photos and began to retrace my route. There in the wash was the rusted remains of the engine that must have been the pump to pull the water from the wash to the storage troughs. Soon, I spied the end of the trail and the end of my adventures in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I changed out of my hiking gear and drove back to the visitor center to obtain my pin. Now for the 2 1/2 hour drive to Tucson for the rest of my Arizona adventure.

A loop through Estes Canyon

Just about a mile down the road from the Arch Canyon Trail is the Estes Canyon/Bull Pasture Trailhead. I pulled into the empty parking lot, refilled my water bottles, and snacked on some dried apricots before heading out. This hike was going to be a loop, but I didn’t know which direction I was going to go. Looking over the information panel, the grade looked nicer going in a clockwise direction. I was feeling good, but still would rather play it safe. At the junction, I signed the logbook and set off along the Estes Canyon Trail. I cruised along the trail, crossing a wash from time to time. After about a mile, I reached the pasture, and off to the south, I could see the switchbacks that I would climb to loop back.

I kept my head focused on the trail and not the climb. Soon, I reached the junction that one could take to an overlook (and if it had been cooler out, onto the summit of Mount Ajo). I was not interested in adding another mile to this hike, so I continued on toward the parking lot. More switchbacks took me down, and soon the road came back into view. Another 2.4 miles under my belt. Since the visitor center was already closed, there was no need to add in the last few tenths of a mile I needed to reach 5 miles of hiking in the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and earn my “I Hiked the Green Desert” pin. Officially, this hike was 2.48 miles with 487 feet of gain.

Back at the car, I finished the Ajo Mountain Drive loop and set off to my campsite at Alamo Primitive Campground. I quickly set up my Luno in the back of the Subaru and relaxed while enjoying my dinner and a well-earned beer. The sunset was incredible, and soon the stars began to appear. I spent some time working on my astro-photography before turning in for the night.

Hiking up Arch Canyon

My first stop on my southern Arizona adventure was to explore Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I had secured a site at the Alamo Primitive Campground for Thursday night, so I used that as my anchor for planning the rest of the adventure. Originally, I was going to be backpacking the Highline National Trail, but some scheduling issues made that no longer possible. After making the drive over from San Diego, I fueled up in Gila Bend, grabbed a Subway sandwich for dinner, and headed south on the 85.

I first made a stop at the Kris Engel Visitor Center to get my Junior Ranger badge and to check about the trails I hoped to hike that afternoon. Leaving the visitor center, I set off along Ajo Mountain Drive to the respective trailheads. This road is one way, so I really did not have a choice in the order I hiked them. I had a drive tour guide booklet, but I had watched a good YouTube video of this drive, so I was familiar with the sights. I pulled into the parking area for the Arch trail. The arch, actually a double arch, is visible from the trailhead, but I wanted to hike up the canyon and explore the area near it. Two cars were in the lot when I arrived, and another joined soon after I did. I changed into my hiking gear and set off. I had frozen two bottles of water, and they were still about half ice when I set off. The car thermometer read 85° F.

The maintained trail headed along the south side of the canyon, working its way back and around the ridge on which the arch is located. After about 0.6 miles, the maintained trail ends. A metal bar lies on the ground. From here, you follow a well-marked use trail up the slope of the ridge. Cairns are plentiful, and usually, you can also see the well-worn path. I came upon a couple from Finland who were not enjoying this hike. I offered water or snacks if they needed them, but they refused. I think they decided to turn back, as I did not see them again. A short time later, a hiker passed me coming back from the top. We chatted briefly before going our respective ways.

I reached the ridgeline and made my way toward the arch, but as I drew near, I could not find a safe enough route to fully get to it. I could see a portion of it, and that would have to do. I began working my way back down when the hiker who pulled in the parking lot after me arrived at the summit. She had hit the trail before I did, and I was wondering where she had gone. She mentioned that she poked around the southern part of the ridge before coming close to the arch. The descent was slow as the route was a combination of steep grade and loose rocks. I took my time and enjoyed the shade offered by the ridge and the light breeze. Soon, I was back on the maintained trail and cruised back to the car. Got in 2.4 miles and 1,004 feet of gain. I need a total of 5 miles hiked to earn my “I Hiked the Green Desert” pin. Let’s see how many miles I can do along the next trail.

Wave Cave

Since my son would be at work all day Monday, I decided to bring my hiking gear with me to Arizona and try to get in some early morning hiking. I wanted something relatively short, but interesting, so I decided to hike up to the Wave Cave. I drove to the Peralta trailhead parking lot. This was the same road I used when I hiked the Hieroglyphic Trail a couple of years ago. A couple of hikers were starting out when I pulled into the dirt lot. It was a chilly 47°F as I grabbed my gear, but I knew that cold feeling would soon fade into memory. The trail headed across the flat desert floor, but off in the distance I could spot the cave up on the hillside. After about 0.6 miles, the trail reaches the boundary of the Superstition Wilderness. While a trail does run along the fence, I continued north through an opening. In another 0.2 miles, the trail to Carney Springs forked to the right, but I stayed on the more used trail to the left. At this point, I would start climbing toward the cave.

The trail now passed into a ravine and began to climb in earnest. The trail crosses over the ravine and makes the final push up to the cave itself. As I got to the cave, the couple who were ahead of me were just about to leave. I asked if they wouldn’t mind taking a few photos of me on the “wave” before they left. Once they left, I had the cave to myself (since this is a popular hike, it was a rarity, which is one advantage of starting at dawn). After exploring the cave and having some water, I headed back down the trail.

The views out across the desert were lovely, and as I made my way back toward the car, I passed several more hikers heading up. Unfortunately, I made a misstep with about 0.5 miles to go and rolled my ankle. Thankfully, I was able to keep going with just a little discomfort and got back to the car without any further issues. Back at the hotel, I wrapped my ankle and kept it elevated and iced for the rest of the day. This was a fun little hike (despite the rolled ankle).

Papago Park Loop

Near the hotel where we were staying for my son’s graduation (go ASU! Forks Up!) is Papago Park. Since I had brought my hiking gear, I decided to wake up early and explore it before it became too warm. I parked near the Hole-In-The-Rock and set off. The Hohokam Tribe used this hole in the rock as a calendar to mark the summer and winter solstice. The hole is directly visible from the parking lot, and a few folks were already exploring it. I did not see a path from this side and followed the trail to the backside. On reaching the backside, I also did not find a route to the hole. I must admit, I did not do my usual research for this hike, as I should have found a trail on the backside. Next time when I visit my son in Tempe, I will do the trail correctly. I wasn’t too disappointed, as I was more interested in seeing the park. I headed to the northwest to loop around the Papago Buttes, then down to Little Butte. The trails were nicely defined and several folks were out for their early morning run or walk. I hiked part way up Little Butte to take in the views of Phoenix. I was starting to get hungry, so I headed back to the car.

Hieroglyphic Trail

Since I was in Tempe for Arizona State University’s Family Weekend, I had limited time to get in a proper hike. I had finally hiked the “A” the day before, but on Sunday I had a bit more availability to get some trail time. I settled on doing the Hieroglyphic Trail out in the Superstition Wilderness. I had seen the signs for this trail back when I hiked Fremont Saddle. This 3-mile round trip hike was just the right length to let me get back to the hotel to shower and check out. The sunrise was spectacular, but since I was alone, I could not safely capture it on my phone. Where’s Ted when you need him!? I pulled into the parking lot and about 6 or 7 cars were already there. Both the Hieroglyphic trail and the Lost Goldmine Trail start from here.

The trail works its way toward a massive collection of petroglyphs near the mouth of the canyon. Clear signage was in place at the junction for the two trails. The trail is a typical desert trail, with some rocky sections and some dirt sections. I scrambled down one minor section just before reaching the petroglyphs.

I carefully explored the petroglyphs carved into the surrounding rocks, watching my footing, as the rocks were slick from water flowing down the canyon. I certainly did not want to slip into that pool of stagnant water. Since I did have a timeline to stick to, I did not linger as long as I might have wanted to. I passed more and more folks heading up the trail. It was certainly a popular one, as the parking lot was almost completely full upon my return.