Backpacking Yosemite High Sierra Camps

Originally, I had a permit to hike the Yosemite High Sierra Camp loop in July, but my summer plans changed, and I could no longer go due to classes. Thankfully, I was able to score one during my break between them. I drove up to Lee Vining, checked into my room, then made my way to the Whoa Nellie Deli for some fish tacos. Afterward, I watched the sun fade over Mono Lake. The next morning, I grabbed breakfast at Nicely’s, then checked out and grabbed a turkey sandwich for later. The drive up over Tioga Pass is always stunning. Bits of snow clung to the tops of some of the peaks. I pulled into the parking lot at the Wilderness permit station and quickly got my permit. The plan was to camp at each of the five High Sierra Camps; the ranger did caution me that the mosquitoes were bad at Sunrise and Vogelsang. I shouldered my pack and set off. Since I had hiked this section last year, I had less anxiety about what lay ahead.

As I reached the parking lot for Lambert Dome, some PCT hikers were looking for a hitch down the road. I inquired about how Glen Pass was, and they confirmed that it was not too bad, but you needed to tackle it early before it became slushy. I wished them well on their journey and continued on.

The hike down to Glen Aulin is pretty mellow, as it mostly follows the Tuolumne River. I stopped at Soda Springs, then at Parsons Lodge. Crews were doing some trail work nearby, and I thanked them for their efforts. From time to time, hikers passed me as they headed back to the meadow. After crossing the first bridge, I took a short snack break, watching the water flow by.

The trail worked its way past a few small waterfalls before finally reaching the bridge that would cross back across the Tuolumne and into Glen Aulin. I decided to see if the site I used last time was open, and it was. A couple from Florida was nearby, but I was respectfully far enough away. After setting up my tent, I ate that sandwich, then stored my pack in one of the lockers. For the afternoon, I relaxed and, after a short nap, wandered down to enjoy the views. A PCT thru-hiker joined me and a couple from Florida on the ledge and set up camp. He went by Casper and finally realized his dream of hiking the whole trail. Dinner was a Chili Mac meal, but I brought some homemade cornbread to have with it. With a full stomach, I turned in, knowing I had a modest climb tomorrow to the next camp.

I awoke around dawn and enjoyed breakfast before packing up. Crossing back over the Tuolumne, almost all of today’s hike would be a steady climb up to May Lake. Again, with less anxiety about the trail, I kept it at a more mellow pace. Some of the smaller streams were almost dry, but I still had a few stream crossings to make. I met another hiker making their way from May Lake. We chatted for a bit, and she confirmed that the bugs at Sunrise were awful, and some hikers actually left due to the mosquitoes. Great, not the news I wanted to hear. We wished each other well on our respective hikes.

I took a snack break at the same spot as last time, just being mindful not to lose my tripod this time. The trail becomes a bit more exposed, so that early start helped. I focused on my pace as the climb also became steeper. Before too long, I spied May Lake peeking through the trees. To my amazement, there were workers reassembling the actual camp! I wondered if they were going to reopen just this one or more? There were several large groups set up, so I scouted around for a spot that would give me a little space. Once set up, I enjoyed the area again. The bugs were minimal, so I could really just relax. The deeper question in my mind was the bugs at Sunrise (and the climb up to it). There actually is cell service here, so I let Anita know I might change plans and would keep her posted.

For dinner, I had Chicken Tikka Masala from Bowl and Kettle. They had sent me some of their meals to enjoy on this trek. I had this one before and could not wait to dive in. I also packed in some naan from Trader Joe’s to have with it. As I ate my meal, the sun slowly retreated behind Mt. Hoffman. After a hard day, I turned in and began debating my options for tomorrow.

I awoke again before dawn and quickly packed up. I decided to skip breakfast and just have a bar and some electrolytes before heading down to Tenya Lake. The early morning sun shone on Half Dome to the west. Once I reached the May Lake Trailhead, I dumped some trash before continuing on.

Once at Tenya Lake and the Sunrise Trailhead, I took a break and made breakfast. The parking lot was pretty full, as this trailhead is the one to Clouds Rest, a hike I have on my list. The trail stayed mellow for a while. Fresh bear scat was on the trail. I took a photo to denote the location for the rangers. Soon, the trail would begin its climb to Sunrise Lake. Even being very mindful of my pace, I actually caught some day hikers. At the trail junction for Clouds Rest, I took a snack break. Those day hikers caught back up, and some continued on to what I have heard is one of the most epic views in the park, while one pair headed on to the lake for some fishing.

I reached the first lake, and it was another stunning sight. After carefully crossing the outflow, I continued past the other two lakes before the last small climb. One tiny patch of snow remained on the trail just before I began my descent toward Sunrise HSC. I had chatted with some of the hikers passing in the other direction, and they validated the intensity of the bugs.

I crossed over a small stream to be rewarded with an incredible vista of the meadow and snow-capped mountains beyond. At a minimum, I knew this would be an outstanding lunch spot. As I ate, I debated whether to continue down to Merced HSC or hop on the John Muir Trail past Cathedral Lakes back to Tuolumne. Since the mosquitoes weren’t too bad at the moment, I found a nice site and made camp. It was just too beautiful not to try to stay. Plus, the lockers and pit toilet weren’t too far away. I slipped into my tent for a nap. When I awoke, there were certainly more mosquitoes buzzing around my tent. I ventured out to see the actual HSC and refill my water bottles.

I dove back into my tent, killing a few that snuck in. I slipped on my headphones and began catching up on some podcasts. Maybe I should have pushed on to Merced HSC? But it was a bit too late in the day to hike the 10 miles, plus I also heard it wasn’t exactly bug-free either. If I had had some company, it might have been easier to pass the time. For dinner, I had another meal from Bowl and Kettle, this time their Sweet Corn Grits. More mosquitoes were now buzzing about, so I ate in the tent. While I might have southern roots, grits were never my thing, but this dinner rocked!

I was glad I had downloaded some Netflix to watch as the sun slowly set. After another quick run to refresh my water and store my gear in the locker, I waited for the sun to dip behind the trees before turning in. A quarter moon was up and shining bright. I had to slip my beanie down to block the light. I still wasn’t sure about tomorrow’s adventure, so for now I just enjoyed the moment.

I awoke before dawn, in part to pack up before the mosquitoes came out. I took a moment to make breakfast and relish in the view. I finished packing, topped off my water, and set off. I had decided to exit. Spending the afternoon trapped in my tent was not my idea of fun at the next two sites.

Frost covered the meadow as I headed northward. While I had about 10 miles to get back to the car, it was mostly going to be downhill, except for a small climb over Cathedral Pass. The imposing Columbia Finger stood towering before me. Once over the pass, I soon passed Cathedral Lakes. The mosquitoes were back out, and other backpackers passed, some with bug nets on. I had mine ready just in case. Since the trail was mellow, I enjoyed my snack on the go to avoid being swarmed.

Once past the lake, I started passing more day hikers coming to enjoy it. As the miles slipped past, I reflected on the past four days and was pleased with the adventure.  Once back at the meadow, I headed to the store and grabbed a soda. I sat on the bench out front, watching the various PCT hikers milling about. Some repacked their resupply boxes, while others were enjoying a breakfast burrito. I still had a long drive home, so I did not linger any longer.

Back at the car, I tossed my pack in the back and changed into some fresh clothes before setting off. I hit Copper Top BBQ in Big Pine for lunch and Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ for some bread. All told, even with the mosquitoes, this was still a fantastic four days exploring Yosemite. Maybe I can grab another permit once the bugs are less of a problem and do a point-to-point hike from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, then to Merced, and finally to the Valley. Just need a shuttle bus running or another way to get back.

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