Backpacking to Peak Lake – Sequoia National Park

Back in 2024, I had planned to hike the Lakes Trail to spend the night at Pear Lake. Unfortunately, the Coffee Pot Fire’s smoke blanketed the region, making the trip unhealthy. Fast-forward to 2026, and I had won the permit lottery for the Rae Lakes Loop, another backpacking trip that is high on my to-do list. But life threw another curveball. Originally, I was not planning on taking any classes this summer, so I would have had the time to travel from San Diego to Kings Canyon, and then spend the five days/four nights doing the Rae Lakes Loop. But since I did enroll in a class, I could no longer afford that much time away from my studies. So, I opted to try to do the Lakes Trail again, gambling on scoring a walk-up permit. I left Monday afternoon, drove to Bakersfield, and used some Marriott points to score a free room. The next morning I drove up to Sequoia National Park. According to the website, permits are released at 1 pm at the Wilderness Station at the Lodgepole Visitor Center, so I had a little time to explore some of the park before I headed over. I decided to rehike the Congress Trail and marvel at the giant redwoods. After enjoying the loop, I headed over to the permit station and was able to get a permit a bit early. In chatting with the ranger, I asked for his recommendation for the afternoon. He suggested that since the weather was pleasant, driving to Kings Canyon might be worth it. I needed to get my National Park Passport book stamped for Kings Canyon anyway, so that sealed the deal.

I drove up the Generals Highway, keeping an eye out for some of the possible campsites I might try to secure for the evening. At Grant’s Grove, I stamped my passport book and had lunch at the restaurant before driving down into Kings Canyon. I felt a bit sad, as this was the same route I would have driven if I had started the Rae Lakes Loop. Off to the east, I could see the clouds building over the mountains, forecasting classic afternoon thunderstorms. I had wanted to hike Zumwalt Meadow again, but as I drew near the trailhead, rain began to fall. So much for that plan. I got a second stamp from the Cedar Grove Visitor Center and made my way back toward where I would camp for the night. I considered hiking Buena Vista Peak, but decided to skip it and save my legs for the climb tomorrow. I turned on Big Meadow Road (14S11) and began looking for a possible campsite. Since this was actually Sequoia National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed. I also knew there was a campground further down the road with first-come sites. I drove past the staging area for the winter trailhead, and followed the paved road for a bit. I passed a large motorhome parked at one spot, then another camper off to the side. I came to Horse Corral Road and turned there. I found one spot that looked fine, but decided to explore some more before setting up camp. I stopped at another one which was a bit more secluded, but since I had time I opted to drive some more. Then I came to a really nice one. It appeared to be very level and had a nice eastern view. A nice rock fire-ring was there, so this became my spot. I began setting up camp, and it was then I realized I left my stove at home. Since this was just a rock fire-ring, there was no grate to set my pot on to cook my Trader Joe’s Jambalaya (recommend). Instead, I would need my fire to burn down some to allow the coals to reheat my meal. With the dinner issue solved, I enjoyed my meal as the sun sank behind me. I built the fire back up and relaxed.

I woke in the pre-dawn, partly due to the excitement and partly because I didn’t have window shades. I might invest in a full set one day. As I finished readying my pack, I saw that the ranger had accidentally issued the permit for yesterday. Crud. So, now I had to decide: ignore it and plead with a ranger if I was stopped, or try to fix it. I wasn’t sure when the permit station opened, but I was aiming for starting after 8, and the trailhead and the station were only about 2 miles away. I decided to swing by to see when they opened and try to fix it before setting off. After some coffee and breakfast, I finished packing up, double-checking my campfire was completely out, and drove back to Lodgepole. I arrived just as they were opening, and the ranger was able to adjust my permit without issue. I thanked him and set off to the trailhead at Wolverton. After storing my cooler in one of the bear lockers, I strapped on my backpack and set off. This trail is also a popular day hike, so I know I would be seeing a mix of folks along the route. My pack carried some different items than during my Yosemite trip: a bear can (my BV425), some rain gear, and my REI QuarterDome tent instead of my Gossamer Gear The One. The tent swap was for two reasons: since the REI tent uses a traditional pole system, I can set it up on rocky surfaces more easily, and being double-walled, it could handle the rain better.

The trail immediately began climbing from the parking lot. After 0.1 miles, it turns to the east and continues its climb under the shade of the forest. From time to time, the sounds of Wolverton Creek could be heard. Along the way, I met up with a group of day hikers taking a short break. I would wind up hiking with a lovely gentleman from Visalia all the way to The Watchtower. We would cross a few flowing streams, and a few wildflowers still remained in bloom along the trail. Our route turned more north-easterly as we approached The Watchtower. This trail is only open in the summer, as a portion of the trail becomes deadly from snow and ice. There is an alternate route known as The Hump, but I had no plans to take it on the way out to Pear Lake. A few backpackers passed us, returning from their stay. Soon, The Watchtower came into view. The Watchtower is a unique rock formation overlooking Tokopah Canyon. I slipped off my pack and took a break. While some do climb out onto its summit, I opted to just marvel at it from where I was. After about 20 minutes, I shouldered my pack and set off. The next section of the trail was the narrow, exposed portion. It did not bother me, but I could only imagine how my friend Ted would have disliked it. The trail joined with the bypass, and soon I reached Heather Lake. For many, this beautiful alpine lake is their destination. I was still ahead of the day hikers, so I had the lake to myself. There is no camping allowed here, but plenty of spots to enjoy a snack or even lunch.

After a short climb, I then dropped down toward the next pair of lakes. Aster Lake came into view first. This lake sits north of the trail and a bit lower. This lake also has a no-camping policy. After passing the pit toilet, I came to Emerald Lake. This lake does allow camping, and I could see a few tents scattered about at the designated site. It turns out a bear had wandered through earlier that morning, so being bear-aware was more than an academic suggestion. This site did have a bear locker, located right at the junction with the main trail and the trail that takes you to the campsites. I poked around the sites briefly. I still had about another 500 feet of elevation left to reach Pear Lake, and the trail was becoming more rocky as it neared the tree line.

I passed the junction to the Ranger Station, wondering if it was staffed. The views were stunning as the alpine terrain became more visible. Tiny patches of snow still clung to just a few spots high upon the northern nooks of the mountains. Before too long, Pear Lake came into view. This site was absolutely stunning. A blue alpine lake tucked in this bowl, surrounded by stark rocky spires. Some folks were already there as I explored the area for a possible campsite. A map of the designated sites was posted at the toilet. Since both of these lakes get enough visitors, NPS built composting toilets to minimize the impact. I found a good spot and tossed my poles down to claim it. Nearby, a hiker was relaxing, and I started chatting with him. He had camped at Emerald Lake and hiked up here this morning. I ate my lunch and enjoyed our conversation. He packed up to head back to his campsite, and I went over to mine to set it up. Once that chore was done, I slipped off my shoes and socks and enjoyed the surprisingly warm water for a bit. Some folks had brought bathing suits, and I wished I had my sandals to make wading less painful on my feet. I spent the rest of the afternoon alternating between relaxing under the shade of a tree, soaking up the views, and wandering around the lake.

Bowl and Kettle had gifted me some meals to try, and this time I brought their Crawfish Étouffée. I accidentally forgot the couple of rolls from Pyrenees Bakery, which I had hoped to pair with it. Oh well, I guess forgetting something was going to be a theme of this trip. I cooked up my meal, and thoroughly enjoyed it as I ate along the lake shore. It is a toss-up between this meal and their Chicken Tikka Masala as to my favorite (The Mexican Street Grits is also a yummy option). My phone’s battery was getting low. I went to grab my battery to charge it, only to discover I had left my cable in the car. At this point, I was the only person at the lake. I turned my phone off to save the remaining power. I didn’t need it for navigating back to the car, but I would like to take some photos along the way. I was more bummed that I wasn’t going to do any astro-photography.

A father and son rolled into the lake; unfortunately, they did not have a cable. They opted to set up camp on the western side of the lake, up on the hill. There, they discovered that there was indeed a bear locker at the lake even though the map did not indicate one. Right around dusk, a group of 6 came in. I chatted with them, pointing out the various options that might work for a group of their size. This was their first night on a multi-day trip into Table Meadows. As the sun set, I bid them good night and crawled into my tent. It took a bit to fall asleep, but sleep finally did come. I woke up a few times, and once the moon had set, I powered my phone back on to snap a couple of photos of the Milky Way.

I awoke again in the pre-dawn and made breakfast by the lake shore. As I sat there in just my sun hoodie and pants, I reflected on how lucky I was to be able to experience all of this. I packed up and set off down the trail. I turned my phone back on, but kept my tracking disabled to conserve power. At Emerald Lake, I chatted with a camper retrieving his stuff from the bear locker. It turns out, he was the one who saw the bear yesterday, almost right where we were standing. After a good 10 minutes of chatting, I bid him farewell, as I still had some miles to cover and a long drive home. Those miles went quickly; a slightly lighter pack and a lot of downhill helped.

I stopped briefly at The Watchtower before continuing my descent. I started to wonder when I might encounter my first day hikers, and around the junction with The Hump, I did. Then, once I passed the junction to Panther Gap, hoards of trail runners came up the trail. I lost count of how many; I would put it over 50 stretched out along the trail. It was clearly some training run for high schoolers, with a few coaches/adults from time to time. I would step aside again and again as they passed. Some were polite, others not so much. Finally, after about a mile of this, the last runner passed me. I thought it odd that there was not a coach or some adult acting as sweep, just one lone girl plodding up the trail. I passed more day hikers, and even a trio of backpackers making their way up. Soon, I reached the junction to take me back to the Wolverton Trailhead, and my trip came to an end. I recorded my time, knowing I could recreate my return track once I got home. I changed into some clean clothes, retrieved my cooler, and began the long drive home. I stopped at the Giant Forest Visitor Center for another stamp in my passport book. I mentioned to the ranger the large group of trail runners and the hikers with a dog on the trail. He rolled his eyes and sighed. Being so understaffed meant there was little they could do about either issue. I thanked him for what he could do to preserve the park and headed down the road. I stopped at the Foothill Visitor Center to get my final stamp before leaving. Unfortunately, I did not realize until I was home that I needed to swap out my Junior Ranger badge for the new wooden one. After refueling both the car and my stomach in Bakersfield, I stopped at Benji’s to bring some Basque food home for myself. The rest of the long drive was uneventful, just a lot of podcasts to pass the time. The final stats were 12.8 miles in 6:55 and 2,749 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer).

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Backpacking Yosemite High Sierra Camps

Originally, I had a permit to hike the Yosemite High Sierra Camp loop in July, but my summer plans changed, and I could no longer go due to classes. Thankfully, I was able to score one during my break between them. I drove up to Lee Vining, checked into my room, then made my way to the Whoa Nellie Deli for some fish tacos. Afterward, I watched the sun fade over Mono Lake. The next morning, I grabbed breakfast at Nicely’s, then checked out and grabbed a turkey sandwich for later. The drive up over Tioga Pass is always stunning. Bits of snow clung to the tops of some of the peaks. I pulled into the parking lot at the Wilderness permit station and quickly got my permit. The plan was to camp at each of the five High Sierra Camps; the ranger did caution me that the mosquitoes were bad at Sunrise and Vogelsang. I shouldered my pack and set off. Since I had hiked this section last year, I had less anxiety about what lay ahead.

As I reached the parking lot for Lambert Dome, some PCT hikers were looking for a hitch down the road. I inquired about how Glen Pass was, and they confirmed that it was not too bad, but you needed to tackle it early before it became slushy. I wished them well on their journey and continued on.

The hike down to Glen Aulin is pretty mellow, as it mostly follows the Tuolumne River. I stopped at Soda Springs, then at Parsons Lodge. Crews were doing some trail work nearby, and I thanked them for their efforts. From time to time, hikers passed me as they headed back to the meadow. After crossing the first bridge, I took a short snack break, watching the water flow by.

The trail worked its way past a few small waterfalls before finally reaching the bridge that would cross back across the Tuolumne and into Glen Aulin. I decided to see if the site I used last time was open, and it was. A couple from Florida was nearby, but I was respectfully far enough away. After setting up my tent, I ate that sandwich, then stored my pack in one of the lockers. For the afternoon, I relaxed and, after a short nap, wandered down to enjoy the views. A PCT thru-hiker joined me and a couple from Florida on the ledge and set up camp. He went by Casper and finally realized his dream of hiking the whole trail. Dinner was a Chili Mac meal, but I brought some homemade cornbread to have with it. With a full stomach, I turned in, knowing I had a modest climb tomorrow to the next camp.

I awoke around dawn and enjoyed breakfast before packing up. Crossing back over the Tuolumne, almost all of today’s hike would be a steady climb up to May Lake. Again, with less anxiety about the trail, I kept it at a more mellow pace. Some of the smaller streams were almost dry, but I still had a few stream crossings to make. I met another hiker making their way from May Lake. We chatted for a bit, and she confirmed that the bugs at Sunrise were awful, and some hikers actually left due to the mosquitoes. Great, not the news I wanted to hear. We wished each other well on our respective hikes.

I took a snack break at the same spot as last time, just being mindful not to lose my tripod this time. The trail becomes a bit more exposed, so that early start helped. I focused on my pace as the climb also became steeper. Before too long, I spied May Lake peeking through the trees. To my amazement, there were workers reassembling the actual camp! I wondered if they were going to reopen just this one or more? There were several large groups set up, so I scouted around for a spot that would give me a little space. Once set up, I enjoyed the area again. The bugs were minimal, so I could really just relax. The deeper question in my mind was the bugs at Sunrise (and the climb up to it). There actually is cell service here, so I let Anita know I might change plans and would keep her posted.

For dinner, I had Chicken Tikka Masala from Bowl and Kettle. They had sent me some of their meals to enjoy on this trek. I had this one before and could not wait to dive in. I also packed in some naan from Trader Joe’s to have with it. As I ate my meal, the sun slowly retreated behind Mt. Hoffman. After a hard day, I turned in and began debating my options for tomorrow.

I awoke again before dawn and quickly packed up. I decided to skip breakfast and just have a bar and some electrolytes before heading down to Tenya Lake. The early morning sun shone on Half Dome to the west. Once I reached the May Lake Trailhead, I dumped some trash before continuing on.

Once at Tenya Lake and the Sunrise Trailhead, I took a break and made breakfast. The parking lot was pretty full, as this trailhead is the one to Clouds Rest, a hike I have on my list. The trail stayed mellow for a while. Fresh bear scat was on the trail. I took a photo to denote the location for the rangers. Soon, the trail would begin its climb to Sunrise Lake. Even being very mindful of my pace, I actually caught some day hikers. At the trail junction for Clouds Rest, I took a snack break. Those day hikers caught back up, and some continued on to what I have heard is one of the most epic views in the park, while one pair headed on to the lake for some fishing.

I reached the first lake, and it was another stunning sight. After carefully crossing the outflow, I continued past the other two lakes before the last small climb. One tiny patch of snow remained on the trail just before I began my descent toward Sunrise HSC. I had chatted with some of the hikers passing in the other direction, and they validated the intensity of the bugs.

I crossed over a small stream to be rewarded with an incredible vista of the meadow and snow-capped mountains beyond. At a minimum, I knew this would be an outstanding lunch spot. As I ate, I debated whether to continue down to Merced HSC or hop on the John Muir Trail past Cathedral Lakes back to Tuolumne. Since the mosquitoes weren’t too bad at the moment, I found a nice site and made camp. It was just too beautiful not to try to stay. Plus, the lockers and pit toilet weren’t too far away. I slipped into my tent for a nap. When I awoke, there were certainly more mosquitoes buzzing around my tent. I ventured out to see the actual HSC and refill my water bottles.

I dove back into my tent, killing a few that snuck in. I slipped on my headphones and began catching up on some podcasts. Maybe I should have pushed on to Merced HSC? But it was a bit too late in the day to hike the 10 miles, plus I also heard it wasn’t exactly bug-free either. If I had had some company, it might have been easier to pass the time. For dinner, I had another meal from Bowl and Kettle, this time their Sweet Corn Grits. More mosquitoes were now buzzing about, so I ate in the tent. While I might have southern roots, grits were never my thing, but this dinner rocked!

I was glad I had downloaded some Netflix to watch as the sun slowly set. After another quick run to refresh my water and store my gear in the locker, I waited for the sun to dip behind the trees before turning in. A quarter moon was up and shining bright. I had to slip my beanie down to block the light. I still wasn’t sure about tomorrow’s adventure, so for now I just enjoyed the moment.

I awoke before dawn, in part to pack up before the mosquitoes came out. I took a moment to make breakfast and relish in the view. I finished packing, topped off my water, and set off. I had decided to exit. Spending the afternoon trapped in my tent was not my idea of fun at the next two sites.

Frost covered the meadow as I headed northward. While I had about 10 miles to get back to the car, it was mostly going to be downhill, except for a small climb over Cathedral Pass. The imposing Columbia Finger stood towering before me. Once over the pass, I soon passed Cathedral Lakes. The mosquitoes were back out, and other backpackers passed, some with bug nets on. I had mine ready just in case. Since the trail was mellow, I enjoyed my snack on the go to avoid being swarmed.

Once past the lake, I started passing more day hikers coming to enjoy it. As the miles slipped past, I reflected on the past four days and was pleased with the adventure. Once back at the meadow, I headed to the store and grabbed a soda. I sat on the bench out front, watching the various PCT hikers milling about. Some repacked their resupply boxes, while others were enjoying a breakfast burrito. I still had a long drive home, so I did not linger any longer.

Back at the car, I tossed my pack in the back and changed into some fresh clothes before setting off. I hit Copper Top BBQ in Big Pine for lunch and Erick Schat’s Bakkerÿ for some bread. All told, even with the mosquitoes, this was still a fantastic four days exploring Yosemite. Maybe I can grab another permit once the bugs are less of a problem and do a point-to-point hike from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, then to Merced, and finally to the Valley. Just need a shuttle bus running or another way to get back.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Hiking the Panorama Loop

One of the day hikes I have always wanted to do was the Panorama Loop in Yosemite. Since I had the time, I made the drive up to El Portal and pitched my tent at the Indian Flat RV park, as I could not secure a site in the park proper. I drove into Yosemite Valley and grabbed one of the last parking spots for Bridalveil Falls. While we had a low snow year, the falls were still flowing nicely. After enjoying the light mist from the cascading water, I headed over to view Yosemite Falls, parking near Sentinel Bridge. From there, I walked over to follow the trail to view Lower Yosemite Falls. Along the way, I gazed up at Half Dome, knowing that I had once stood atop that majestic piece of granite. From the viewpoint of the falls, I strolled over to the Village Store to find a sticker or maybe a shirt. They had a nice “I made it to the top” sticker, so I grabbed one for myself and another for Ted. After looking for my dinner options, I settled on the Base Camp Eatery. Since tomorrow was going to be a long, hard day of hiking, I headed back to my tent to turn in.

I awoke just before dawn and quickly got ready, enjoying some oatmeal and a coffee. Again making the drive back into the valley, parking at the trailhead for the Four Mile Trail. The Panorama Loop is actually a combination of several trails: the Four Mile Trail, the Panorama Trail, and either the Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail. I chose to start on the Four Mile Trail, as it would have me ending near Curry Village. Two other cars were already parked alongside the road. This trailhead only had space for about 10 cars, so I was glad to be doing this hike before Memorial Day. Otherwise, I might have had to park on the other side of the valley and walk over, or wait for the shuttle buses to be running.

I gathered my pack and set off. The trail climbed up the wall of the valley, but at mostly a steady grade. Views of El Capitan and Yosemite Falls would appear from beyond the trees. My first destination was Union Point, offering an uninterrupted view of the valley. While I had gained a fair amount of elevation, I still had more to gain.

The trail swung southward, and Half Dome came into view for the first time. This also meant I was nearing my next destination, Glacier Point. After reaching it and chatting with some visitors about hiking up Half Dome, I headed to the store. I grabbed an ice cream sandwich and a soda. They also had pre-made sandwiches which sounded better than the tuna kit I had brought. Plus, it was mostly all downhill from here, so carrying a second lunch wasn’t going to be a burden. I enjoyed that ice cream out on the amphitheater, soaking in the stunning views. While I would have loved to just sit there for a long time, I still had a lot of miles to cover.

Now on the Panorama Trail, the vistas shifted to the Yosemite backcountry. Snow still clung to the mountain tops off in the distance. The trail crossed several small streams, some even flowing for a time on the trail itself. In a few weeks, I suspect they will be dry. Before too long, Illouette Falls came into view, which was my next stopping point. I took a short side trail to a viewpoint to marvel at them. This is actually the best place to view it, given how the water actually flows.

Once at the bridge over Illouette Creek, I took a short break. I initially thought I might have lunch there, but I was still full from that ice cream sandwich, so I decided to wait until Nevada Falls to enjoy it. Sadly, I saw the amount of trash scattered about the sandy beach, so I had to clean up what I could before continuing.

Now the trail would climb away from the falls. After about a mile and almost 600 feet of gain, I took another short trail to Panorama Point. I stood on an outcropping and took in the views. The trail leveled out for a while before descending toward Nevada Falls. I passed the closed junction to the John Muir Trail and found a nice shady spot near the river to enjoy my lunch. I took my time, soaking it all in. It was busy with groups of all kinds milling about.

That sandwich hit the spot, along with the Fritos, but it was time to descend down the Mist Trail. This was one part of the hike I was not looking forward to. This portion of the trail is steep and will also be crowded. Alas, there was no alternative, so down I went. This was also why I remembered to bring my rubber tips for my trekking poles to navigate the granite.

After crossing the river again at the Silver Apron, I left the Mist Trail to take the connector trail to Clark Point. This would allow me to bypass the crowds at Vernal Falls, and the wetter section of the Mist Trail. Upon reaching Clark Point, I was now back on the JMT. The final miles went quickly, and I was soon at Happy Isles Trailhead. I waited a bit for the shuttle to Curry Village, where a cold beer and some food awaited me, then decided to just make the flat one-mile walk. What’s one more mile after doing about 16?

At Bar 1899, the cold beer and pretzel bites were just what this hiker needed. I was also going to get a pizza, but there was a 45-minute wait, so I opted for a burrito instead. Since it was over two miles back to the car, I waited for the shuttle this time.

Finally back at the car, I changed into a dry shirt and made my way up to Tunnel View to enjoy the shadows slowly working their way across the valley. Again, this parking lot was almost at capacity. I can only imagine what Memorial Day Weekend would look like in a few days. As I looped back through the valley, I stopped at El Capitan Meadow. I decided to stroll out a bit, hoping to spot a climber’s headlamp on El Capitan. There, I ran into a gentleman with a nice spotter’s scope trained on a few climbers. He allowed me to look through it before he packed it away. He told me that those climbers were a 7-year-old attempting to become the youngest to climb El Cap and his brother, who was aiming to be the youngest to climb it twice (along with their support crew and father). To learn more about their successful climb, visit https://samadventure.com/.

It had been a long day, and while some astrophotography was tempting, I had a long drive home the next day. I awoke early and made breakfast while I finished packing up my site before making the drive home. The final stats for this hike were 15.5 miles, in 7:58 with over 4,507 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

PCT – Apache Springs to Idyllwild

The winds did blow through the night, but unlike San Gorgonio, the tent held firm. I awoke just before dawn and enjoyed the colors over Palm Springs as I ate my oatmeal and had a cup of coffee. I gathered more water, being more careful not to kick up the silt. My filter was partially clogged, so it took some time to ensure I had enough water to reach Tahquiz Creek, the next water source.

Once packed up, I began the climb back to the junction. Sara had messaged me that she had just hit the trail herself. I said hello to some thru-hikers finishing packing up from their night up top. Apache Peak was right next to the trail, so I dropped my pack and followed the cairns to the summit. I found a sign and the register, but nothing to sign. The views were something, but I had a lot of miles to cover, and this section was almost all in the sun.

Since my filter was working so slowly, I hung the CNOC bag from my pack, and my mini M!GO bottle was attached. Unfortunately, a brushy section knocked the bottle free. I found it with most of the water still inside, thankfully. It was worth a shot. I had my sun umbrella with me, but hadn’t attached the straps to fix it to my pack, and I was not about to just hold it through this section of the trail.

As I neared Spitler Peak, I opted to skip it as I just did not have the legs for the steep climb to the summit. If you have ever watched some videos of hikers doing this section in the winter, you realize how dangerous this portion of the trail is. However, the views to my east were breathtaking.

I came to a small saddle, spied two packs just off the trail, and then I saw a man coming down from the nearby slope. I shouted “hi,” and he returned the greeting by crossing his arms and giving me an almost death-like stare. My “spidey-sense” went off the charts—there was something very wrong with this dude. I gave him a thumbs up and kicked it up a notch to hike away from him. I glanced back to see if he might be following me, but thankfully, he did not seem to be. Soon, I caught up with Sara. Turns out she, too, had an odd encounter with him, as did some other hikers. We hiked together for a bit, filling each other in about our evening and the day so far. Sara still hadn’t found her climbing legs yet, so she suggested I just find my groove and meet at the creek. Since I had skipped Spitler, I knew I was going to be skipping Red Tahquitz. I crested the saddle and knew the rest of the hike was all downhill with some shade.

I leapfrogged another hiker, who asked me about how my side quests were going. Hum, I might have just gotten a trail name…”Side Quest”. About 8 hikers were relaxing by the creek when I arrived. I filled my CNOC and slowly filtered my water while eating my lunch. About 30 minutes later, Sara rolled in. We all collectively chatted about the odd hiker, and I said that since I was headed down to Idyllwild, I would let the rangers know.

After a nice break under the shade of the pines, Sara and I headed off along the blue blaze toward Saddle Junction. Once there, a volunteer ranger was checking permits. Poor Sara didn’t have a tag yet, so she had to dig her paper one out of the middle of her pack. I had an updated email for mine, so I was good to go. Two other hikers were relaxing before they made their way down to town. Since Sara had just been in town, she was going to keep pushing north. We said goodbye for now, and I, along with the other two hikers, headed down the Devil’s Slide trail. Hopefully, my good friends Rick and Andrea had shuttled my car up to Humber Park. Partway down, a text came through that they had indeed parked the car for me. Not sure who was happier—me, not having to wait for my car, or the two ladies, who now had a ride into town.

We met a few folks heading up the trail on a day hike and one thru-hiker heading back. Soon, the parking lot came into view, and this epic adventure had come to a close. I dropped the ladies off at the post office and let Rick and Andrea know I had picked up my car. They agreed to meet for an early dinner at the Idyllwild Brewpub, and I filled them in on my trip. They were tackling San Jacinto from Devil’s Slide the next day, so an early dinner worked well for them, as they had a long day ahead.

The final stats for the two days were:

Day 1	19.0 miles	4,667 feet	13:03
Day 2	13.2 miles	2,343 feet	8:57

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

PCT – Highway 74 to Apache Springs

I awoke just before the alarm went off and quickly got ready. I was driving up to Idyllwild and picking up Sara to shuttle her back down to the Highway 74 trailhead before joining her once again on the Pacific Crest Trail. However, this time I would not just be day hiking; I would be backpacking this section of the trail all the way back to Idyllwild. I grabbed breakfast and coffee for Sara and me at the 24-hour McDonald’s in Temecula, then continued up the mountain to pick her up at the rental cabin she was sharing with some other thru-hikers. I got there right around 6 am, and Sara was soon in the passenger seat, ready to hit the trail once again. We pulled into the trailhead parking lot and quickly gathered our gear. We had a long, hard day of hiking ahead of us, and we wanted to get moving. Off to our north, we could see San Jacinto beckoning. We passed a stone monument with a map of the PCT and a memorial for Andy Elam, who, unfortunately, was murdered nearby back in 1989.

The trail started off mellow for a bit before the long climb began. We passed someone who had found a nice spot for the night. Sara continued filling me in on the events since I last saw her up on Mt. Laguna. Before too long, we came to the junction that one would take to summit Ken Point. While I was hoping to climb several side peaks on this trip, this summit was a bit too far for my liking. We enjoyed the views, mostly to the west. I tried to spot the peaks that I had climbed the week before. After a couple more miles, I came to the use trail that would take me to the summit of Lion Peak. This climb would be an out-and-back, so I dropped my pack off to the side of the trail and followed the cairns to the summit. I found the register and a nice wooden sign. I snapped a few photos, signed the register, and hustled back down. We still had a lot of miles to cover. Sara was waiting for me under the shade of a nearby tree.

About 1/2 mile later, we reached the junction with the use trail to Pine Mountain. I debated on this one, as the trip reports indicated it was a bit brushy and a bit further off-trail. In the end, I opted to skip it. The day was getting warmer, and I was trying to be mindful of my water and energy. Just to the north, Pyramid Peak was calling my name. Unlike the climb to Lion Peak, this time I kept my pack on, as the route made more sense to climb it as a point-to-point. The use trail to the summit was pretty well marked. Once at its rocky summit, I had some fantastic views. Found the benchmark, two reference marks, and the register. I took a short break and enjoyed a snack before heading down the north ridge, again following a good use trail.

Sara had passed me while I was on the summit, but we planned to rendezvous at the junction for Cedar Springs. I found her enjoying her lunch in the shade with some other thru-hikers. One had just returned from the mile hike down to the spring to refill their water, and others were getting ready to make the same trek. Our original plan was to hike down and camp there for our first day, but it was just a bit after 1 pm, and we both agreed it was too early to call it a day. We could certainly top off our water, but the thought of those 2 miles was not appealing. Instead, we opted to make the short hike to Eagle Spring and fill up there. Using the references in the comments on FarOut, we found the lone pine tree and the use trail that led to a trickling spring and a water trough. Sara used the spring, while I carefully filled my CNOC from the trough, trying to keep the algae away. Once we had filled our bottles, we climbed back up to the PCT and continued on.

Since we had changed our initial plans, I was also reviewing my peak bagging side quests. The next peak on my agenda was Palm View Peak. On paper, this looked to be the easiest of all the ones I hoped to climb. Very little elevation gain and barely off-trail. I dropped my pack and set off. Sara kept pushing northward, knowing that I would catch her on the big climb that lay ahead of us past Fobes Saddle. The hike over to Palm View Peak started nicely, with some nice shade from the trees, until I hit a wall of brush. I tried to match my position to the tracks I had saved, but nothing really indicated a route through them. Relying on bushwhacking talents, I picked my way through until I spied a small mound of rocks indicating the summit. The register was soaks, and the views were less than stellar. I snapped a few photos and pushed my way back out.

The trail descended to Fobes Saddle, and the sun was slowly sinking behind Thomas Mountain. Spitler Peak loomed to my north. This was on my list, but there was no time to climb its steep slope and still make camp at Apache Springs. If I were solo and had climbed Ken Point and Pine Mountain, I probably would have made Cedar Springs later in the afternoon, so stopping there would have made sense. I knew there was a closer trailhead for this peak, so returning would not require re-hiking much of the PCT. I was now a good distance ahead of Sara, so we were coordinating digitally. I had some water left, so I did consider stopping short of Apache Springs for the night, then dropping down to it in the morning to fill up for the day. FarOut indicated a campsite before the junction with Apache Springs, but when I reached it, it seemed pretty full and exposed. So, I pushed on toward Apache Springs. At the junction, some folks had set up camp. I had been leapfrogging with some, so I asked them to let Sara know that I was headed down to the spring.

Apache Spring sits about 0.6 miles off the PCT and has a 520-foot elevation loss. As I started down, I hoped there was a spot for my tent, since I was not keen on hiking back up to the junction. Partway down, I passed one tent just off to the side of the trail. I thought to myself, great, if someone is camping here, are there even any spots near the spring? But as luck would have it, there was no one camped there! I found a nicely sheltered spot, since I knew it was going to be breezy overnight (25-mph gusts were predicted). After I got my tent set up and secured, I walked the few minutes to the spring itself. It was getting dark, but I thought I had enough light, so I left my headlamp behind. I gathered some water and hauled it back to the campsite. Once there, I saw how slity it was. When I scooped up the water, I disturbed the silt. I let it settle some before dumping out a portion and starting to filter it. I was pretty beat and decided not to spend the time or water on cooking dinner. Instead, I ate my Walking Tamale, a beef stick, and my mini-apple pie for dinner, then turned in for the night under the glow of the lights from Palm Springs. I had gotten a message from Sara that she had reached the junction and was camping up there. With that, I turned off my headlamp and drifted off to a well-earned sleep. I covered 19.2 miles in 13:03 total time and an elevation gain of 5234 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Up the Mile High Trail

Initially, the weather seemed favorable enough for me to attempt Rosa Point and Mile High in Anza-Borrego. Slowly, however, the forecast became slightly warmer than ideal. It was my birthday weekend, though, and what better way to celebrate than with some solo camping in the desert and hiking? After our book signing event at Warwick’s, I gathered my things and headed off toward the desert. I knew I wasn’t going to arrive until closer to sunset, so I opted to get a burrito from Los Jilbertos in Borrego Springs for dinner. I pulled off the S22 for the Arroyo Salado Campground. Since it was Sunday, the campground was empty, and I had my choice of sites. I quickly began setting up and had the chance to use my levelers for the first time, as there was just enough grade to offset.

I enjoyed my burrito and chips while a fire danced in the fire pit. There was a slight breeze, so the fire burned quickly, which was fine as I was planning on an early morning. It was still quite warm, and I wondered how much it might actually cool off overnight. I enjoyed some night skies for a bit before turning in. The alarm went off at 4:30, and I quickly made some oatmeal and coffee. After breaking camp, I made the short drive back to the trailhead. This is the same trailhead from which to start for Villager or Pyramid Peaks. There was no moon to help illuminate the desert floor, but my headlamp guided me toward the Palo Verde Wash off to the northeast. Unlike my previous time climbing these peaks, I planned to ascend the ridge much sooner to avoid hiking through the rather rocky wash and the steep ascent that would otherwise be required. I found a cairn and a clear use trail right where my track indicated it would be. The temperature had only dropped to about 70° F, so I wasn’t sure I’d be able to summit today. I figured if I could, at the very least, explore this route a bit. The use trail was really well defined, and I had no trouble working my way up the ridge. The sunlight began to fill the desert around me, illuminating the badlands around Fonts Point and the mountains to the west, but I was still in the shade from the mountains to my east.

Various cacti dotted the landscape as the trail steadily climbed. Like any route in the Santa Rosa Mountains, you had to deal with varying terrain; sometimes great footing, other times less than ideal. The trail did pass through a few cholla fields, so I tried to take extra care to avoid getting “cholla bombed”. Sadly, one did get me, but I got all the spines out that had made it through my pants and sock and into my ankle. As I drew near the junction where I needed to decide whether to continue toward Mile High or veer off to the northeast and ascend Rosa Point. I found a spot to take a break, enjoy a snack, and drink some electrolytes. I carry a Bluetooth temperature gauge, so I pulled up the app to see what it was reading. Currently, it was 76°F, so maybe I would just summit Mile High and call it a day.

I set off along the trail for about another ½ mile and decided to call it. I had at least 2 more miles with over 2,000 feet still to climb to reach the summit. While I was carrying almost 4 liters of water, I wasn’t comfortable continuing. As the famous mountaineer, Ed Viesturs, says, “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”

I popped in my headphones and began listening to various podcasts as I made my way back down. The day continued to heat up, and once I reached the desert floor, I pulled out my sun umbrella and cruised back toward the car. Once there, I tossed in my gear and let my wife know I was safe and sound. The temperature was in the mid-80s, so I knew I made the right call. However, finding that use trail that allows skipping so much of the hiking in the wash was a win, and that will certainly be helpful when I return. All told, I spent 5:40 out on the trail, covering 8.1 miles with just over 2,753 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

No Knob!

Originally, I had planned to hike up to Rosa Point and Mile High on Sunday, but one set of friends had to back out, and another let me know that his legs were a bit worn from climbing Sawtooth (the one on the SD Peak Club list). So I suggested that Robert and I explore and see if we might be able to climb Knob Benchmark from Sheep Canyon. At worst, it would be another great hike out to Sheep Canyon, and we’d probably have some wildflowers to enjoy as well. We met around 7 at the parking lot next to Jilbertos and transferred into the Outback. Robert and I drove out to the gate at the third crossing. We parked, gathered our gear, and set off. There were quite a few more flowers than last time as we hiked along the stream.

After the climb over Boulder Alley, we met a group of Boy Scouts returning from their overnight. Earlier, we had met a couple of bike-packers. As we got closer to Sheep Canyon, we could see where the recent rains had traveled across the desert sands. We walked over to the campground where another group of backpackers was milling around a picnic table. I assumed they might be WBC course participants, since a lecture was being held. Even with the closure, this is still a busy place. We found another table and had a quick snack break. Now onto the real adventure—could we find a route through Sheep Canyon, then onto Knob Benchmark? The route I had taken before is no longer available, so I was exploring alternatives.

As we headed into the canyon, the sounds of flowing water began to fill the air. A really good flow poured through the brush. That is a good sign for us if we can get in a backpacking trip to attempt SquareTop, as we will need to haul out very little with us. Maybe we could bring some firewood instead? We began slowly, picking our way through the brush and rocks, crossing the creek a few times. After almost an hour of pushing through the increasingly dense growth and only covering about 1/2 mile, we called it. We felt the canyon was going to get thicker and harder. Knob Benchmark is going to require a different route. We got back to the campground and had another snack before heading out. The day had warmed some, an indication of the warmer forecast for the coming week. We cruised back, stopping at the marker again. As we neared the gate, there were a lot more folks out enjoying the flowers. We drove back into town, grabbed a couple of sodas, and enjoyed our lunch at a picnic table under the shade of a cottonwood. While we never got close to the peak, it was still a fantastic day in the desert with some good company.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Returning to Coyote Mountain

Decided to tackle one of Ted’s remaining peaks on his 100-peak list today. Given his time constraints, Coyote Mountain seemed to fit the bill perfectly. Our drive out had us under overcast skies, but as we dropped down to the desert floor, we left the clouds behind. Unfortunately, not the wind, as it was breezy as we got out of the car. We had the same issue the last time we tried to climb this mountain. The winds were not as strong, and we decided to at least get on the ridge and see how we felt. We crossed the rocky desert floor to the ridge that lay off to the west. As we drew near, we spied some cairns.

Once on the ridge, we could feel the wind, and it was strong enough to move our trekking poles, but nothing beyond that. We decided to continue; however, this was to be a silent climb, as we certainly were not going to be chatting over the wind. The route was almost overmarked with cairns, as well as the fairly well-defined use trail that followed the ridge. For the most part, we kept our heads down to avoid our hats being blown off, and pushed upward. The route goes mostly north, before turning westward to the summit, with a couple of short flat sections. The last time I climbed this peak, I needed to rest from time to time. For this climb, we kept hiking, except to snap a photo here and there.

We reached the wide, broad summit, found the register and benchmark. I signed us in and opted not to enjoy the can of Coors that was in the ammo box. After a quick snack and various photos, we headed back down as the wind was still blowing and there was nothing on the summit to act as a windscreen.

After a few minutes descending, the winds ceased. Since we no longer had to keep our heads down, we could enjoy the expansive views to our east, and we could have a conversation. Along the way, we met two other hikers taking a short break on their ascent. We chatted for a bit before parting ways. Once at the base of the ridge, we followed more cairns that took us farther east than the route we took on the way in. We passed an old water tank, then finally back onto the road, and then our car. We tossed our gear in and changed into some dry shirts, then drove along the road to inspect a structure near the edge of the dry lake bed. This is a small shack labeled as “The Peace House”, and it was quite interesting. Since it is wildflower season out in the desert, here are the various flowers we spotted along our adventure:

After grabbing some Mexican food in town, we headed home. I logged 5.4 miles, while Ted had us at just under 6. Our total time was 3:43, about 45 minutes faster than my last time. The entire climb was 2,573 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Returning to Goat Benchmark

The plan was to hike out to Goat Benchmark with Rick & Andrea, and if I was feeling up to it, I might push on to The Sirens and San Ysidro East. With the access closure from Lease Road, the only real option for us to hike to Goat Benchmark was to start from Montezuma Valley Road. I had hiked portions of this route, as far north as White Benchmark, but not between that point and the route I had taken before on my trips into Hellhole Flats. I arrived a bit early and saw the sunrise was really putting on a show, so I continued past our meeting point and drove farther along Montezuma Valley Road to a couple of turnouts to capture it. What a sight!

We were meeting at 7, so I turned around safely and met them at the fence line of Anza-Borrego State Park. The general plan was to head north, following the fence line (and the terrain), then link up with the gully descending toward Hellhole Flats. I was almost over a cold, so I wasn’t sure I had the energy to make the whole trek, but I carried enough to do so. At a minimum, I would have eyes on that new section that I would have to traverse at least once more with Ted to hike up to San Ysidro Peak. The recent rains made the ground a bit soft and damp. The brush was low, so our pants should remain dry. This new route adds about 1.5 miles to the junction of the routes and about 1,000 feet. We worked our way northward, following small use trails and trying to avoid unnecessary climbs. As we approached White, the route options became more complex, with more boulders and steep sections to contend with. We tried to follow the contour lines, but eventually opted to head up toward White Benchmark and a gap to its north. In hindsight, I think it would have been easier just to follow the slope south toward White, then cut across near the summit to that gap. That is what I did upon my return, and that is the better route.

After passing White, we tried to stay on the east side to avoid the property line. A small bump sits just to the north of White, and we found ourselves unable to continue. We debated heading straight east and down a steep slope, then up toward Goat from there, but we opted to try the west side and hug the property line. After a couple of downs and ups across some minor gullies, we turned onto one that would eventually link with the gully that I have used in the past. Once in it, we cruised along. At one point, we had a bit of flowing water that appeared briefly, then faded back underground. I kept a mindful eye for the turn off to Goat. I spotted a familiar landmark, just a small bump, and knew we were getting close. One thing I remember about Goat is that it is not the pile of rocks you think it is, nor the next one… Once there, we took a short break, and I pulled out my wind shell, as it was chilly and breezy. We had been adding and removing layers throughout the hike. We signed the register and snapped a photo of the benchmark. Rick and Andrea were hoping to continue and make it to Webo. I kept debating about my options. I had broken down the various sections for my attempts, and it seemed too much, as we had lost some time on the way out. Plus, the weather was supposed to worsen in the afternoon. I made the call that I was going to retrace our route. I then suggested, since they would be at Webo, why not just take the ridge down rather than slog back the way we came? I could drive down to the parking area and shuttle them back. So, that became the new plan. I gave them a few navigational pointers, and we parted ways.

I found some nice use trails to return me to the main gully, then to the side gully to begin my journey south. I was able to follow our route in with no issues. As I approached White, my right knee began to ache. Not sure if it was cold, or overused, but I was not happy. I wondered if the soft terrain had put some stress on it… Since I was so close to White, I opted to climb it formally. As I mentioned earlier, our route out almost took us to its summit. I climbed the rocks to the top, and then took a quick break for a PB&J. Both Rick and I had cell coverage, and they were atop Webo hunting for the benchmark and the register. They found the benchmark, but the register could not be located. The same was true for me. I could see a pile of rocks on top where one might have been, but no more. I did not look that hard to see if it had been relocated. I then headed southward, not following any particular track, letting the terrain guide me. Since my knee was hurting, I skipped climbing some of the other benchmarks scattered along the way. It had gotten colder and windier, so I was wearing all my layers. Ignoring my knee, I suspected I made the right call to not stay out longer.

Back at the car, I changed and drove on down to Borrego Springs. I grabbed a cold soda from the market and played on my phone a bit while I waited. I got a check-in message from Rick, and eventually made my way over to the parking lot for Hellhole Canyon. I relaxed for a bit until I spotted two tired but happy hikers emerging from along the trail. They tossed their gear in the back, and we made the drive back up to Ranchita. As we drew near where we started from, rain was falling! Boy, did we all make the right choice. It would have sucked hiking back in that! I tracked my hike at 8.3 miles over 6:15 with 2,087 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Out to Bernard and Little Berdoo

I awoke just before sunrise. After a nice warm breakfast, I drove down Geology Tour Road to the start of the hike. The road was in pretty good condition, except for two rutted spots that were muddy and had been “enjoyed” by others. At marker 14, I turned off the road and parked. I left a note in the window, grabbed my gear, and set off.

I worked my way eastward toward the wash, which I would follow southward for about 1.5 miles, when it split into two forks. Here, a large cairn marked the exit from the wash, and the climb would begin in earnest. My route took me up a gully and toward a small saddle. A lone boulder just to the east of it helped give me a target to aim for. Once along the ridge, it was now a “simple” process to follow it in a generally southward direction, ever climbing. The route would alternate from mild to steep. After a very convincing false summit, the true summit of Bernard Peak came into view. I scrambled to the summit. A light breeze helped temper the day’s warmth. I found the benchmark and a reference mark. I signed the register before setting off for the next peak (Little Berdoo) after addressing a hot spot on my foot.

I dropped down to another saddle, sad to lose some elevation, but I did pick up an excellent use trail for a while. My route arched over to the summit. Here I found the benchmark, reference mark, and the register. The Coachella Valley was spread out before me as I enjoyed a snack and some electrolytes before heading back.

My route back went well with a few drifts off track, but I quickly corrected my navigation. I enjoyed a Walking Tamale, a new trail food for me, during one of the mellower sections to keep my energy levels up. Way off to the north, I could see the volcanic rocks of Malapai Hill and Geology Tour Road, as I kept descending. Soon, I passed that lone boulder again and down to the wash. Initially, I planned to follow the wash back to the road, then to my car, to avoid the open desert portion again. With a quick check against the saved GPX track I had been using, I saw that I was drifting to the east, so I was going to have some last open desert hiking before reaching the road.

Once back at the car, I enjoyed some cold water, as the day was now in the mid-70s. The thought of hiking up volcanic rocks to the summit of Malapai Hill on a warm day with some tired legs was not something that appealed to me. Tonight’s campsite was down at Cottonwood Springs, so I had a bit of a drive to recover from the day’s efforts. I stopped at the visitor center to ask about the road to the Monument Peak trailhead. The rangers said that up to that point, an AWD car would have no issues. Past that, well, you’d better have a real 4×4 with recovery gear. I got the same campsite as I had last year. The light pollution is a bit worse here, so astrophotography wouldn’t be as good. I quickly set up camp and started cooking while I started a campfire. Unlike last night, there was no breeze, so it was an enjoyable night to enjoy a nice beer and watch the fire.

I awoke slightly before dawn and captured a short time-lapse of the sunrise.

After some oatmeal, OJ, and hot coffee, I decided not to attempt Monument Peak. My legs were still spent from the past two days, and as I still needed to climb Malapai Hill, I knew I had a return trip to Joshua Tree in my future. With that decision, I headed home very satisfied with the hikes and camping. The entire multiple peak hike covered 8.7 miles in 5:44. The total elevation gain was 2,221 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails: San Diego, available now!

I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

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Bring the Outdoors to Your Inbox

Bring the Outdoors to Your Inbox

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