Backpacking Barker Valley

After the closure of the Palomar Divide Truck Trail a couple of weeks ago, which forced me to pivot to backpacking Noble Canyon instead, I secured a new overnight permit for Barker Valley. The road had reopened, so that hurdle was no longer in front of me. However, we had some unseasonably warm weather forecast for the start of my trip. Since I was not planning on starting until mid-afternoon and most of the 3 or so mile hike would be descending from the trailhead to Barker Valley, I was overly worried. I made the very familiar drive through Ramona and then Santa Ysabel. After a quick stop for gas at the tribal gas station, I passed on through Warner Springs until I reached the turn-off onto the Palomar Divide Truck Trail. After 8 miles of driving, I reached the trailhead and pulled into a spot off to the side of the road. It was warm, but a nice breeze helped it feel less oppressive. I read over the trailhead kiosk, which I had seen numerous times on my drives up to Palomar High Point, before setting off down the trail.

The trail gently worked its way down, following the contours of the mountain. Sweeping views of Lake Henshaw to the south, and both the Observatories and the Lookout Tower to the north. The trail was slightly overgrown in spots, but nothing too bad. I might return with some clippers to do some trail maintenance, if I felt like making the drive up again. Wildflowers still lined the trail from time to time. Footprints could be seen in the sandy sections of the trail, so it does see some traffic occasionally. About a mile in, a rock arrow pointed the way. This area had a couple of nice campsites on either side of the trail.

After about 1.8 miles, another large rock arrow pointed the way for the trail, which now made a sharp left turn, leaving the ridgeline it had been following. On several maps, a trail is shown continuing along the ridge line, but it appears that it is becoming overgrown. The trail was also starting to become a bit more rocky, so a little more care was needed with my footing as I worked my way down toward the valley. The overgrowth also increased a bit, but nothing a quick push of a trekking pole could not handle. Soon, I found myself in the valley and near the West Fork of the San Luis Rey River. Now I needed to find a campsite and access to water. I carried enough to get me to the campsite and back if things did not work out, but not enough for dinner and breakfast. I passed one campsite, which might have worked, but continued along the trail that paralleled the stream, looking for other camping options as well as water. I came upon a nice campsite near a very large downed oak tree. I had a choice between under the shade of an oak tree or on the open dirt. I brought my REI QuarterDome, so I could lie inside the mesh walls and enjoy the night sky, so the choice of where to pitch my tent was obvious.

I dropped my pack, grabbed my CNOC water bag, and set off to find water to filter. At first, I found a large pool of water with bits of algae floating on top of it. No worse than what I have seen used by those on the Arizona Trail, but I decided to keep exploring before settling on this as my water source. Soon, I heard the sounds of flowing water and made my way back to the edge of the stream. I placed my bag into the gently flowing stream and had 3 liters in a matter of moments. I trekked the 0.3 miles back to the campsite and began to set up camp. As the sun was beginning to set, the mosquitoes were starting to come out in force. I had my bug net, but I forgot to bring any repellent, so I retreated to my tent (killing the few that had snuck inside). I relaxed, staring at the trees around me and the dance of the bugs on the tent’s mesh. I figured this was good practice for my Yosemite backpacking trip. After the sun had set, I ventured out of the tent and made my dinner.

I listened to my audiobook while I enjoyed a freeze-dried lasagna and waited for the stars to come out. Once it was dark enough, I again worked on some astro-photography before turning in. It actually became quite chilly, and I was glad to have my warmer quilt with me. I woke up around 5:30 and made a cup of hot coffee. It was a bit nippy, so I checked my Govee thermo-hygrometer, and it said it was 31°F! Being in a valley meant the cold air had settled here overnight, hence the temperature difference between the summit forecast and my location. I boiled some more water for my oatmeal and began packing up. Around 6:30, I was ready to head back up the trail.

The climb back to the trailhead went fairly smoothly, I only stopped to remove my fleece and adjust my socks. After about 1:30, I again reached the metal gate, and my backpacking adventure in Barker Valley was over. I tossed my gear into the Outback, changed into a clean shirt, and decided to drive on up the High Point. The road became a bit rougher, and I drove the last 5 miles to the summit. The road to the trailhead is doable in most cars (just drive slow and keep your eyes open), but after the trailhead, I would only recommend something a bit more off-road-friendly (like my Outback). Near the summit, I could see the results of the controlled burn that had been performed recently. The tower was staffed, so I was able to drive all the way to the top. I wandered around the summit, snapping a few photos. It was too windy to have a discussion with the two rangers staffing the tower, so I set off back down the road and home.

The final stats for this adventure were 6.9 miles with 1055 feet of gain (most of it on the way back). My descent time was 1:30 (with some filming time included), and 1:27 for the ascent (less time filming). The video of the trip will be on my YouTube channel soon, so go there and like and subscribe!

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and Arizona-Winter). Beyond attempting the San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list a second time, I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Overnight in Noble Canyon

My original plan was to backpack Barker Valley near Palomar; however, about an hour before I was set to drive out, I decided to check the status of the road to the actual trailhead, and it was closed! According to the Forest Service website, the Palomar Divide Trail was closed, meaning I could not get to the trailhead. Not to let a fully packed backpack go to waste, I considered some alternatives; Sitton Peak, Arroyo Seco, and Noble Canyon were options that quickly came to mind. I did not have the ability to quickly get an overnight permit for Sitton, so it was out of the running. Arroyo Seco was possible, but Noble Canyon was closer to the overnight I had planned for Barker Valley. After stopping at the ranger station in Alpine to pick up my permit, I drove on up to the Penny Pines trailhead. I gathered my gear, hung my Adventure Pass (not sure I needed to, but better safe than sorry), and walked through the gate onto the trail. Around the picnic table, 6 PCT thru-hikers were chilling in the shade. We chatted a bit and I learned two were from New Zealand, two from the Netherlands, and two were Americans. I shared some local trail knowledge before wishing them all luck on their journey and set off down my trail to the west. I cruised along, glad to be doing this hike on a weekday and not being worried about getting run over by mountain bikers. Some clouds hung in the air, offering some shade from time to time. Off to the north, I could spy Garnet Peak and Pine Mountain as I worked my way toward Noble Canyon proper.

At about 3.5 miles in, I passed a nice campsite under a large oak tree. I didn’t have any planned camping spot, so I was playing it all by ear. I kept working my way down the canyon, and soon, flowing water could be heard. I came to another campsite, this one larger, but the ground was not nearly as flat as the first one, so I passed on it. After about 5 miles, I threw in the towel and turned back; that first campsite (32.885492° -116.499558°) was going to be my home for the evening.

I set up camp quickly as the sun was starting to dip behind the hill to the west. After dinner, I retreated into my tent to listen to my audiobook before turning in around “hiker midnight“. The nearly full moon shone through the benches and made an interesting pattern on my tent.

I remembered to bring the new pillow this time, and it worked well. I still need to add a bit more loft, but that was to be expected. Around 5:30, I woke up and crawled out of my tent. According to my thermometer, it was about 40°F. I made a cup of coffee and began to break camp. I decided not to have breakfast here, but to head back to Mt. Laguna to hopefully enjoy some tales from PCTers and have a hot meal at the Pine House Café. I made good time back to the car, even doing some filming along the way. At the trailhead, I chatted with some local day hikers getting ready to make a loop up to Garnet Peak. Once their friends pulled in, I said farewell and set off for breakfast. The Kind bar was enough for those 3 miles, but I now needed a real meal. The Café was closed when I arrived, and a few PCTers were milling about, waiting for it to open. Normally, they are closed on Thursday, but the owner decided to open anyway. I shared a table with a gentleman who has hiked the PCT multiple times. We had a fantastic chat over coffee and our meal. The common thread was “taking advantage of the time you have”. With our stomachs full, we bid goodbye, he continued walking northward and I drove back home. I am going to need to find the time to hike Noble Canyon from the other trailhead and see if there are campsites in that section.

Backpacking at Granite Springs

As I am working on completing the 100 Peak Challenge for a second time, I needed to climb East Mesa – Peak 5178. When I did the challenge in 2019, I climbed East Mesa High Point, as Derek did not define which East Mesa to summit. He later clarified that the correct peak is East Mesa – Peak 5178. Rather than simply hiking out and bagging the peak, I opted to camp at Granite Springs Primitive Campground, which is just a short distance from the peak. I bought my overnight permit from the kiosk at the Green Valley Campground (Friday through Sunday, the kiosk is staffed), then drove the short distance to the Sweetwater parking area. I grabbed my pack and headed up the Harvey Moore Trail. The trail starts climbing right from the trailhead, so the light breeze that was blowing was welcomed. After about 0.7 miles, the grade lessened, and I kept cruising along. Oakzanita stood off to my right, and Cuyamaca and Cush-Pi (Stonewall) stood far off to my left.

As I passed through East Mesa, I spied East Mesa – Peak 5178, and considered climbing immediately after I set up camp, but I wanted to secure my camping spot first. Soon, the water pump came into view, and I had arrived at the campground. There were three sites here, so I went down the trail past the pit toilets to view my options for the evening. I settled on site #1, under the shade of some large oaks. The other two sites looked fine, but this one also had some nice logs to sit upon and relax. I set up my tent without issue. I had wanted to try a new pillow on this trip, and accidentally brought my old one instead (I actually brought both, but did not see the one I wanted to try until the next morning!). Since it was still Passover, I could not eat a dehydrated meal, so I had packed other food for my time out there. I also decided to bring my own water and not treat the water from the pump. The sun soon dipped behind Peak 5178, and it began to cool down. I slipped into my tent and relaxed, listening to an audiobook until I drifted off to sleep. I got up once during the evening and grabbed a few night shots before huddling back under my quilt.

Around 6, I woke and had my breakfast. That hot coffee sure hit the spot. My thermometer said it dropped to 38°F overnight. I went back down the East Mesa Fire Road for a short distance before heading cross-country toward the southern slope of Peak 5178.

Initially, the slope was covered in simple grasses and ankle-high brush, but as I worked my way up, the vegetation began to change. With about 40 feet of elevation to go to the summit, I now had to bushwhack my way through the last 100 yards or so. The brush was thick, and more than once, I would try one path, only to reach a thick wall. With a little luck (and a few drops of blood), I reached the summit. A small rock cairn denoted the peak. I could see the fog below me, which made for a unique view. Once I had taken in the view, I whacked my way through the brush and back onto the southern slope. As I cruised along the Harvey Moore Trail once again, I began descending into the fog. I stopped and slipped on my jacket before continuing. Soon, I was back in my car and ready to head home after a great overnight trip. The hike out was 3.9 miles with 979 feet of gain. The side trip up to Peak 5178 was about 300 feet of gain and took about 35 minutes. I think I will find the time to explore the other primitive campground, Arroyo Seco, before too long.

Camping on Corte Madera

When I awoke and saw that it had rained overnight, I wondered what the conditions at Corte Madera might be like. I checked the forecast, and it remained as before: a high in the mid-60s, a forecasted low in the mid-40s, and a light breeze. After lunch with Rick to discuss an upcoming trip, we tossed my gear in the car and set off under still cloudy skies. I needed a wilderness permit, so I stopped at the Ranger Station in Alpine and picked one up. The Ranger had never heard of anyone camping back there, so I filled her in on the details from my last trip. With my permit in hand, I drove out to the trailhead. As I neared the Laguna Crest, the clouds stopped, and a warm sun shone down. Once at the parking area, I quickly shouldered my pack and set off. I cruised along the road to the turn-off to the Espinoza trail and began working my way up toward the Espinoza saddle. As I neared the saddle, I could see the clouds covering it. Once there, the views to the west were completely socked in. I hoped that the campsite would be above them. I turned onto the road and headed toward the next junction. Thankfully, I quickly did rise above the cloud layer, and the sun once again shone down.

I climbed up the steep trail, testing out the grip of my new shoes and enjoying their lightness with every step. Unlike last time, where I needed to stop at one of the overlooks, I felt great and pushed on. The manzanita is beginning to encroach on the trail, so long pants and long-sleeved shirts are highly recommended. Corte Madera finally came into view, sitting above a blanket of clouds below. I cruised over to the same campsite I used before. Since I was filming this trek, I set up my camera and recorded a time-lapse of setting up.

Once set up, I hiked the 0.1 miles over to the summit. After enjoying the view and reflecting on recent events, I headed back to camp. Initially, I had hoped to sleep without the rain fly, but some fog rolled in, and I reluctantly added it. I cooked my dinner as the sun sank beneath the clouds. Retreating to my tent, I listened to some podcasts for a while. The fog had retreated, and the stars shone in the moonless night sky. I spent some time taking photos, adjusting various settings on the iPhone’s camera, and taking advantage of having a tripod.

I woke before sunrise and made a cup of coffee, which I enjoyed in the tent. I headed back over to the summit to watch the actual sunrise. There was a peace in my heart and a sense of comfort as its rays spread across the vista before me. Returning back to camp, I finished packing up and headed out. The return went quickly, as a warm breakfast was waiting for me in Alpine. One of the questions I had was how much water I would consume during this overnight. I carried out 4.25 liters and only used about 2.25 liters. If I had made a proper breakfast, then I probably would have been closer to using 3 liters. I also drank a liter before leaving, so that reduced my water usage as well. With that, only two more peaks to climb to finish the 2025 San Diego Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge.

Completing the CRHT

When blisters forced me to end my thru-hike of the California Riding and Hiking Trail in Joshua Tree, I began thinking of options to complete the last 11 miles. Initially, in mid-March, I had planned to hike the Eagle Rock Loop in Arkansas in conjunction with my grand-niece’s 3rd birthday. Unfortunately, my sister’s condition worsened, and she was placed on hospice. So, I decided to reschedule that backpacking trek until the fall. That also meant that I would have the time to spend the two days I needed to finish off the CRHT. We flew back to Little Rock for the birthday, but my sister took an unexpected turn and passed away late Saturday evening. My wife and I arrived home in San Diego very late on Monday. When it was just a visit, just the party and time with family, I penciled in doing the CRHT on the Wednesday and Thursday after we returned. I talked it over with Anita, and she said I should still go. Some time alone out in the wilderness will be good for you, plus Mindy always loved my adventures. It let her “get out” when she no longer could. So, on Tuesday, I assembled my gear and was ready to set out for some healing time on the trail.

My plan was straightforward: Start from the North Entrance Trailhead, hike to the Geology Road Trailhead, then make a U-turn and hike back to the car. The drive out was pretty uneventful. This time, I made sure I had my hiking shoes. Actually, two pairs of hiking shoes. After the blisters for the first attempt and an issue during my hike in Borrego Palm Canyon, I decided to switch to Altra Lone Peak 9’s. This hike would be their maiden voyage on my feet. I did bring my Merrell Moab 2’s just in case I found that I did not like the new shoes, I might be able to return to the car and switch my footwear. I planned two water caches; the first was two 1-liter bottles at the Arch Rock Trailhead (1 liter for the hike out and the other for the hike back), and the second cache was at the Geology Road Trailhead, where I left one 1-liter bottle. Like before, I carried two 1-liter bottles on the sides of my pack and a .75-liter bottle in my shoulder pouch.

I parked at the trailhead and gathered my gear. The weather was perfect, with just a light breeze. I brought my tripod again, this time hoping for more filming along the way. The trail heads mostly southward and gently gains in elevation. After just 6 miles, I spotted Belle Campground and made a slight detour. I used the pit toilet and found an empty picnic table to sit at and enjoy my lunch. After some tuna, oranges, and a Kit-Kat bar, I set off toward the Arch Rock Trailhead. There, I picked up one of the water bottles and slipped it into my pack.

The trail now turned eastward. As my shoes crunched on the desert floor, my thoughts turned to my sister. My mom had given her up for adoption before I was even born (11 years to be exact), and I did not learn of her existence until 2000 (by accident). Finally, in 2018, we discovered one another and had seven wonderful years together. Soon, I spotted the recommended campsite and found a perfect spot to pitch my tent. After setting up camp, I looked at the time and was feeling good, so I changed my plans. Initially, I had planned to hike out to Geology Road to pick up the water cache in the morning and hike the 11+ miles back to the car. Instead, I decided to go ahead and hike over, get the liter, and hike back, making it closer to the original plan in February. I left the trekking poles behind as they were holding up my tent and headed out. It was so weird to hike without them, I didn’t know what to do with my hands… Soon, I saw the glint of sunlight on a windshield and knew the trailhead was close. I reached it in no time and gathered my water. I reflected on the difference—the last time I was here hiking, my feet had blisters, and I was completely defeated. This time, while my heart was filled with sadness from the loss of my sister, the rest of me felt great, including the feet in the new shoes.

Once back at camp, I relaxed in the chair I brought and watched the sun sink lower over the horizon. I made dinner and soon crawled into my tent to drift off to sleep. Initially, there was to be a SpaceX launch out of Vandenberg around 11, but I had a cell signal and learned that the launch had been delayed, so I deleted that alarm from my phone. During the night, I did wake up and try for some photographs of the incredibly starry night I was sleeping under. I really need to find some good tutorials of how to adjust the settings to get better night photography.

I woke around 6, before the sunrise. As I packed up, I kept an eye out toward the east to capture the first rays of the rising sun. After a quick breakfast of oatmeal and a cup of coffee, I was ready to head out. While yesterday was fairly easy, today was even easier as it was almost all downhill. I spent more time reflecting on my sister, letting this journey be a part of my grieving and healing process. Some formal events were planned, but I needed time for myself. I picked up my remaining bottle and kept on cruising. I again made a bio-break at Belle Campground and dumped my trash. I passed a few folks starting their journey as I drew nearer to the end of mine. Once back at the camp, I was happy to have hiked the entire trail, and while not all in one go, it was still a continuous footpath. After a stop at the Visitor Center for some stickers and a patch, I enjoyed a good burger and a well-earned beer in Joshua Tree. As for the shoes, they worked pretty well, although I did develop one blister. I suspect it might be my pace again. For both legs of the hike, I held just over 21-minute miles, which is really fast. I think if I just went slower, my feet would be fine. The final stats were 23.3 miles in 9:27 and 1,700 feet of gain.

Along the California Riding and Hiking Trail

Hiking the California Riding and Hiking Trail through Joshua Tree National Park had been high on my to-do list. I got the required wilderness permit and opened invitations for any of my hiking buddies to join me.

My good friend Ted H. said he would love to join me, along with one of his long-time hiking buddies. The basic plan was for me to drive to various spots along the trail and cache the water we would need along our trek. After that, I would spend the night car camping at Blackrock Campground, which is conveniently located next to the western end of the trail. With my gear packed into the Subaru, I left for Joshua Tree in the morning, hoping to have a relaxing day. I pre-ordered a sandwich from Jersey Mike’s along the way. Not 15 minutes into the drive, Anita calls me to let me know I forgot to pack my eggs in the cooler. Thankfully, she was headed in my general direction, so at least I did not have to drive all the way home. With that crisis averted, I again headed northward, just a little behind schedule. Around Menifee, something clicked in my head, “Did I pack my hiking boots?!” Normally, I wear them out the door when I go hiking, but I was in my regular shoes for some comfort. I found a place to pull over and check, and sure enough, I had forgotten them! Anita was working in East County, so she could not help me this time. Back to San Diego I went. I called Jersey Mike’s to put my sandwich away, as I would be delayed in picking it up. With my hiking shoes acquired, I got back on the road. Given the delay I did swap the order of the water caches, just in case I had further unexpected delays.

Stop one was now the end of Upper Covington Flats Road. Since this was about a ten-mile drive along a dirt road, it made sense to do this while I had daylight. The rest of the caches would be near easily accessible roads. The road was in good shape, and a few pools of water from the recent rains did offer a little fun to the drive (and the need for a car wash later). A lone Prius sat at the trailhead as I tucked 3 gallons of water under some brush. Each cache would have a gallon for each of us. Next, I headed to what would be our last cache, near the parking area for Arch Rock. I wanted to place these jugs a little further from the trailhead, as this spot is heavily trafficked, and did not want someone to accidentally use our water. From there, I drove westward to Geology Road for what was planned for our water for the end of day 2. The final cache was to be placed at the trailhead to Juniper Flats. With our water safely tucked away, I drove back toward Blackrock, making a stop at Stater Bros. to grab a steak to grill, some firewood, and an orange juice for the morning.

The sun had set, so it took a little bit to find my campsite. I quickly unloaded, set up the Luno, and started a fire. The winds made it chilly, so I was glad to have a fire to warm up. I grilled my steak, this time just right. I enjoyed it, along with a nice salad and fine beer from The Bruery. Tomorrow was going to be the start of a big adventure, so I turned in just as the moon was rising over the hills to the east.

It was chilly when I woke up, and I quickly cooked my eggs. I packed up my car camping gear and drove over to the backcountry parking area. The plan was for Mark to drive over to the eastern terminus of the trail and get picked up by Ted and Andrea. The original plan was to start at around 8. Unfortunately, Mark got a late start leaving his campsite. Adding to the mix, the cell network was completely down, so we had no method of communication with each other. Finally, just before 10, they returned from the car shuttle setup, and we could hit the trail.

I carried 3.75 liters of water as we set off on the trail. I did consider having Andrea drive us down to Covington Flats Trailhead and just start from there so we would have time to easily make the planned campsite. The others felt that we should be ok, so we stuck to the original plan. The recent rains compacted the sandy section, making the hiking a bit nicer. This first section was a steady climb, the wind was making the day chilly. Both San Jacinto and San Gorgonio’s snow-capped summits peaked into view from time to time.

After about 6 miles, we found a spot out of the wind and had a snack break. I had hoped to film a lot more on the trip, but that 2-hour delay scuttled that plan. Once we reached Upper Covington Flats, we each strapped our gallon of water to our packs and continued on (after another snack). The sun was setting, and it was pretty clear that we were not going to make the planned campsite. There was another possible site that was only 2.8 miles further, so that became our new destination.

The water jug made a rhythmic sound as I hiked down the trail. When I came to the location of the campsite, it was clearly not going to work. The site sat on the crest above a valley, and the winds were howling. I was actually being pushed from time to time. Setting up camp here was not an option. So, we dropped down and found a spot that was a bit more sheltered. We each found a spot to pitch our respective tents. I did not repeat what happened on San Gorgonio, so I made sure all my tent stakes were highly secured. I set up my camp chair I opted to bring and cooked up dinner. The winds made it too chilly to sit around and chat, so after I ate, I retreated to my tent and listened to an audiobook. The tent would feel the wind, but it held firm. I drifted off to a little sleep, as the winds would wake me briefly. Around midnight, the winds calmed down, and I drifted into a nice slumber. I woke up just before sunrise to answer nature’s call and caught a nice morning sky. I crawled back under my quilt for a little more rest before really starting the day.

I emerged from my tent around 7, and I cooked up some oatmeal and a nice hot cup of coffee. As I was packing up, I could not locate my tent stake bag. My guess was that I left it out and the winds blew it away. I did scout the surrounding brush, but no luck (I later found them tucked in my jacket). I was ready to hit the trail at about 8, however, we did not hit the trail until 9. Thankfully, without the wind, it was quite pleasant. From time to time, we would see trail runners race past along the trail above us.

The trail continued descending for a while before we would have two steep climbs that would have us enter Juniper Flats proper. I reached the crest and found a nice rock to wait for Ted and Mark to rejoin me. I soaked in the view and the silence. Once back together, Ted and I set off together, with Mark keeping his own pace. The plan was to rejoin at the Juniper Flats trailhead and top off our water from the cache I had left on Friday. As I was descending, I felt a couple of hot spots forming. At the trailhead, I put some KT blister tape on where I thought they were.

After a nice lunch, I went solo, as Mark was just pulling in as I was set to head out. I again was concerned about our timing to reach the next planned site and the water as well. I tossed my empty water jug into the recycling at Ryan Campground and motored on. I could feel my feet, but I hoped the blister tape would do its job. I had a slight climb leaving Ryan Campground, but then the trail leveled out.

My feet started to hurt more, so I stopped under the shade of a Juniper tree and took a look at them. A quarter-sized blister had formed on the balls of each foot. This was not good. I applied more KT tape, but I suspected that I might have to call it. My best guess is I actually was hiking too fast to make up for our delayed starts and created the friction to cause them to form. I began thinking of options. I could camp early and then hike to Geology Road in the morning. I could attempt to make it to the planned site and either backtrack to Geology Road and get picked up or if the feet were up to it, limp to Arch Rock and bail there. Hiking to the end was no longer an option. As I drew nearer to Geology Road, I began messaging Anita about her driving out to pick me up. I actually hoped to hitch a ride from someone who could take me back to my car, but first I needed to tell Ted and Mark of my plan to bail here. So I set up my chair and waited. I actually had a cell signal, so I called Anita and gave her the details for plan B if I could not hitch a ride.

After about 30 minutes, they reached the trailhead. I told Ted where the water was at Arch Rock and began looking for someone returning from driving Geology Road. Sure enough, the first car stopped and had room for me and my gear and was headed in the right direction. I said my farewells to Ted and Mark. My rescuers kindly drove me back to my car. Once back out of the park, I texted Anita that she could return home, as she had preemptively started out to meet me. I tossed my gear into my car and bid farewell to my rescuers.

My adventure was not quite over. I opted to fuel up at the Morongo gas station and grab dinner at In-n-Out. As I entered the traffic circle, a Mercedes Benz SUV cut in front of me, causing me to slam on my brakes, and unfortunately, my burger and fries flew off the seat onto the floor. I lost about half my fries, but the burger was still intact. Thankfully, that was the last of the misadventures.

I did hear from Ted that they completed the hike, but he, too, had blisters that slowed him down.

Apart from the blisters, everything else felt good. In March, I went back and hiked the missing section of the trail.

The final stats for this section were:

Day 1: 11.4 miles in 5:30 hrs

Day 2: 14.4 miles in 6:40 hrs

Sunrise on San Jacinto…almost

Time for what is now turning out to be an annual trip, backpacking San Jacinto. After checking in at the Ranger Station, I made the short hike up to Round Valley. I had hoped to camp at Upper Chinaquin, but someone beat me to it, so Buckthorn it was.

I was doing this trip a bit late in the season. I had hoped to do it a couple of weeks earlier, but the tram maintenance was extended, so I had to push back my date. Thankfully, the weather hadn’t turned, but I would be dealing with the sun setting around 6. After setting up camp, I made my dinner and opted to turn in early. This time I hoped to make the summit for sunrise, so that meant waking up around 4 am. I listened to a podcast for a bit, then fell asleep. When the moon rose around 2 am, I pulled my wool cap down over my eyes and drifted back to sleep until my alarm went off.

I made some coffee and ate some oatmeal. I debated bringing a slack pack or using my backpack instead. I opted to use my new Osprey Exos for my summit.

With my headlamp illuminating the trail, I began hiking the mile up to Wellman Divide at 5 am. I had hoped to start a bit earlier but got behind schedule. The climb went smoothly, during which I stopped briefly to gaze at the city lights to the southwest. I did not linger as I was racing the rising sun. I made decent time as I headed to the Miller Peak hairpin, but as I made my way, I could see the coming dawn off to the east, along with the lights of Palm Springs and the rest of the valley. It was simply stunning to watch, but I also knew that I was not going to make the summit before the sun rose. After the hairpin, I found a nice spot with a clear view of the east, took a break, and watched the sunrise.

The upside was the final boulder scramble to the summit wouldn’t be in the dark. As I was about halfway up, a young lady was making her way down. We chatted a bit before heading our different directions. Once at the summit, which had a sign this time, I snapped a few photos. One cool photo I took was the actual mountain shadow spread out to the west. I found a nice spot for a well-earned rest and unpacked my cool kit to brew up a cup of coffee. After my snack and warm beverage, I headed back down. Now it was my turn to meet someone at the base of boulders. Turns out she is a SOBO PCTer, who decided to add this summit. Most NOBOs skip it, as they are dealing with snow and ice when they are passing by. We parted company and I began wondering when I might encounter my first day hikers. I guessed it probably to happen just after the Wellman Divide, but a group of 5 young and strong hikers passed me about 1/4 mile before I got to Wellman.

As I made my way down from Wellman, I would encounter a steady stream of day hikers. Some asked about conditions at the summit, while others focused on the climb ahead of them.

Once back at Round Valley, I returned to my campsite to pack up my gear. As I cruised back to toward the tram station, the stream of day hikers continued. Soon, the Ranger Station came into view and I stopped to check out. After chatting with the Ranger a bit, I made the hard slog up the concrete switchbacks that lead to the tram station. With it being the weekend, trams were running every 15 minutes. I soon found myself tossing my gear into the Subaru and slipping on a clean shirt and some tennis shoes for the drive home.

Backpacking to Chicken Spring Lake

I had planned to do this solo overnight trip this past weekend, but that early snowstorm forced me to postpone it. Since the weather was looking much better for this weekend, I decided to make the drive up the 395 and try again. One of the questions I had was actually about the timing of getting to the trailhead at Horseshoe Meadows. I had three options:

Leave early Saturday morning (think 4 am), and drive straight to the trailhead,
Leave Friday afternoon, drive to the trailhead, and camp in my car at the Walk-In Campground, or
Leave Friday afternoon, drive to Ridgecrest, stay in a motel, then make the 2-hour drive to the trailhead on Saturday.

I ruled out option one. Since I was going solo, I did not want to deal with the combination of the drive and the hike in one day. Option 2 had some appeal, as since I would be at altitude, I could get some acclimation time in before I set off. In the end, finding a motel for $90 in Ridgecrest sealed the deal for option 3. I checked into the motel a bit after 5 pm, unloaded my gear, and set off to grab dinner. I knew exactly where I had to have dinner, John’s Pizza. For over 30 years, my dad was a Field Engineer for NCR, which meant he was the nice man who fixed that cash register or later, that ATM. One of the places he would have to drive out to for a service call was John’s Pizza in Ridgecrest. I made the short drive to the restaurant and ordered a beer, some breadsticks, and a pizza. I did not have the courage to order the Peanut Butter Pizza (yes, this is a thing and has been for decades). As I ate my food, I reflected a bit on my Dad and his impact on me. Back at the motel, I read a bit before turning in.

I awoke the next morning and grabbed a warm breakfast at the Denny’s before continuing on to Horseshoe Meadows. Turning off the 395, I could see the road snaking its way up the steep mountainside and began the long climb up from the floor of Owens Valley. Along the way, I passed two cyclists testing their legs and lungs climbing up the road. That would have been me 30 years ago… I pulled into the parking lot for the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead and began to get ready. Since this is active bear country, I placed my return drinks and snacks in a bear box, along with a few other scented items. No need to come back to a car that a bear had vandalized to get at something it saw or smelled.

With one last stop at the pit toilets, I set off along the flat but sandy trail to the west. The trail reached a junction with the trail leading south to Trail Pass, and north to Cottonwood Lakes. However, my destination lay off to the west, on the other side of Cottonwood Pass. For the first 2 miles, the trail hugs the north side of Horseshoe Meadows and it is pretty gentle in terms of elevation gain. The hike starts at just under 10,000 feet. This area is a popular area for hikers who are planning to ascend Mt. Whitney to the north to work on their acclimation. Temperatures were in the low-50s, so it was really pleasant hiking weather. After crossing a stream twice, I soon reached the end of the ‘flat’ portion of the hike and would start the ascent of Cottonwood Pass in earnest. One of the items that I was trying on this hike was a new, lighter backpack. I swapped out my Osprey Atmos 65 for an Osprey Exos 58. There is almost a 2 lbs. difference in the weight between the two packs. So far, the pack was feeling comfortable, so that was a good sign. Earlier, I chatted with a father and son who were returning from their trip (it turns out they were from San Diego), and when I left the parking lot, a returning hiker was also from San Diego (did I miss an email that it was San Diego weekend on Cottonwood Pass?). While chatting with the father and son, 3 horseback riders came passing through. I knew I would now need to be mindful of horse droppings on the trail as well…ssing through. I knew I would now need to be mindful of horse droppings on the trail as well…

I took the climb in a measured fashion, as I had no need to try to race up and over the pass. I would occasionally stop to snap a photo, usually looking back down toward Horseshoe Meadows (getting further and further away). I reached those riders again, just as they were finishing their break and returning to their ascent. I continued making my own ascent, sensing that I would soon be reaching the pass. Sure enough, I reached it! I found a nice spot, slipped off my pack, and broke out my lunch. A sweeping view to the west filled both my eyes and my soul as well. Just in front of me was the Pacific Crest Trail. I pondered all those hikers who have passed along this point. When I get home, I need to rewatch some of the YouTube videos of some of the thru-hikers I followed this year to see if they captured their passing. After a nice break, I set off for the final bit to Chicken Spring Lake.

Just as I reached the junction to Chicken Spring Lake, I spotted the horseback riders making their return from the lake, so I paused to let them pass. Then, two older hikers came down the PCT to the junction as well. They dropped their packs and took a short break. I spotted the PCT hiker tag on one of their packs and asked if they were SOBOs (SOuth BOund). Turns out, they were originally NOBOs but had been flip-flopping due to various closures, and the exit at Cottonwood Pass was their actual completion point! I congratulated them on their achievement! They were looking forward to a real bed, a lot of food, and some cold beer. I helped one lift their pack back on (arthritis in his shoulder, to which I can relate…) and waved them off. I walked over to the small rise to be greeted with Chicken Spring Lake before me. I had reached my goal for the day. I walked along the eastern shore, scouting out possible campsites. After passing a family of four, I found a nice spot to set up camp. I slipped off my pack and went about my chores. One of the new pieces of equipment I was testing was the Flextail air pump. Weighing in at under 2 oz., this little air pump quickly filled up my air mattress. Being at over 11,200 feet in elevation, not having to huff into a blow sack to inflate my sleeping pad made it all worth it. I made sure the stakes to the tent were very secure as I did not want a repeat of the events on San Gorgonio. I also brought along my portable CPAP unit, so I tucked that inside the tent as well. This would be the first time trying it out on an actual backpacking trip. I had used it before, but only when car camping.

After tucking my bear canister safely away from my tent, I decided to lie down and take a well-earned rest. That was part of the plan, to simply enjoy the destination… Feeling refreshed, I wandered down to the water’s edge to fill my CNOC water bag so I could filter water for later. I drank another .5 liter of electrolytes to hopefully prevent the cramping I had on my last overnight. I strolled along the lakeshore, enjoying the calmness it offered. As the sun continued to sink, I knew it was getting closer to making my dinner. Another new piece of gear I was testing was an insulated food bag from Big Sky International. This bag helps keep the heat from the food pouch in, thus aiding in rehydration, as well as just help keeping it warm. It was worth the $16 I spent on it! My lasagna stayed warm down to the last bite. I packed my food away for the night, along with anything else scented, and returned to my tent. The temperatures were starting to drop, and I broke out my down jacket. I watched the colors on the mountains above the lake turn into an amber glow as the day faded away. I crawled into my tent, turned on an audiobook, and relaxed. The new pillow, a NEMO Fillo Elite, was also working out well. Normally, I return my puffy jacket into the stuff sack I store it in, to act as a secondary pillow, but I was starting to really feel the chill, so I put it back on. My quilt is technically rated to 30°F, but I wasn’t sure what its comfort rating actually was. I still have to be mindful of my neck, so I folded up my seat pad that I use to act as my under pillow to get my neck angle just right.

The night continued to get colder, so I slipped on a pair of gloves I brought, as my fingers were getting pretty cold. I had turned off my audiobook at this point and was ready to plug my phone into the battery to recharge it, when I discovered its connector had been twisted slightly, making it impossible to plug a cable into it. I had already forgotten the cable for my Apple Watch. If needed, I could hopefully charge my phone using the CPAP battery in the morning. I drifted off to sleep, and the light breeze from earlier in the day had thankfully faded. From time to time, I would wake, usually from my feet feeling the chill. It was certainly cold. I would double-check that I was still properly tucked in, and would fall back asleep. I had wanted to step out at some point and take in the night sky, but it was just too chilly for me to leave my tent. Maybe if I had to answer the call of nature…

Around 5 am I awoke, as my CPAP had run out of battery. Normally, I can get almost two nights’ worth of power from the battery, but the cold had drained the battery. I closed my eyes again for a bit before climbing out of my tent. Since I did have a thermometer on my pack, I took a look at the reading, and it measured just above 30°F. None of my water froze, so I knew it did not get below 32°F. I wasn’t in a real hurry to leave, but I knew I did have a 5+ hour drive home. I made a hot cup of coffee and began packing up. I finished breakfast and a second cup of coffee and repacked my backpack. The family of four that I saw on the way to my campsite had already left, but a young couple was just getting their breakfast ready at one of the first sites I passed the day before. We chatted for a good while, shoeing away some rather aggressive squirrels trying to get into their packs. They were starting a multi-day trip that hopefully would include an ascent of Mt. Langley. I bid them farewell and began retracing my path. I had considered turning my return into a longer loop, passing by Trail Peak and descending via Trail Pass, but in the end, I opted to save that for another trip.

The descent went quickly. Along the way, I passed a collection of other backpackers setting off, or a few day hikers out enjoying the first days of fall. Soon, I was cruising along Horseshoe Meadow, and finally back at the trailhead. I grabbed my stuff from the bear box and enjoyed a cold drink while changing into some clean clothes for the long drive home. This was a great overnight trip, and one I plan to do again (probably turning it into a multi-day adventure if permits allow). I almost forgot to mention another new piece of gear I had for this trip was a 3D-printed holder for my Garmin InReach. OHM3 reached out to me via Reddit and sent me one. Their cradle worked really well. It was nice having my Garmin securely fixed to my pack and not flopping around as I hiked. The drive home was uneventful, except for seeing the large smoke cloud from the Line Fire that had flared up again.

Dry Lake

Secured another permit for an overnight adventure in the San Gorgonio Wilderness, to camp at Dry Lake. Ted Markus kindly decided to join me on this adventure. The plan was to hike up to Dry Lake, spend the night, hike up to the summit the following day, and then hike out. Initially, I was going to use my Osprey 34 Stratos as my pack, and while everything fit (included the required bear canister), it was a tight fit. So, I switched to my Osprey Atmos 65, with plenty of room for all my gear, plus this pack is a bit more padded. The Atmos 65 has a removable top section, and since I did not need it, I left it behind for this trip. Meanwhile, Ted showed up with a massively loaded pack. Pack weight would be a discussion we would have throughout the trip…

We pulled into the parking lot for the South Fork trailhead, and quickly got ready to set off. I let Ted know that after the creek crossing at the beginning of the trail, we would have a steep, but thankfully short, section to climb. Once past that part, the climb became more manageable. At Horse Meadow, we took a short break, exploring the couple of buildings that remain. From there, we continued our climb to our next stop, Poopout Hill. We slipped out of our packs and enjoyed our lunches. San Gorgonio loomed in the distance with not a cloud in the sky, which was different from my last time here. Our next planned stop was at the junction for Dry Lake and Dollar Lake. We passed a returning hiker from time to time, while I kept an eye out for the small tree I took shelter under during that thunderstorm. After thanking that little tree for its help during that downpour, we pushed on to the turnoff to Dry Lake. After a couple of small stream crossings, we found a nice log to rest upon and again slipped off our packs. I was feeling pretty good. The extra padding of the Atmos 65 was worth the slightly heavier weight over the Stratos. Next came the first real challenge of the hike—crossing the actual South Fork of the Santa Ana River. The water was flowing pretty good, and unlike the other water crossing, we had to scout around for a safe place to cross. I found a log upstream and we used it. Once across, we located the trail again and the final 1.6 or so miles to Dry Lake. Ted’s pack weight was taking its toll (and the altitude, as we were now over 8,200 feet in elevation), so we took some short breaks from time to time. Finally, Dry Lake came into view and we had reached our destination. We circled around the lake to the south side to locate a campsite for the evening. We found a nice spot where we could pitch our tents in the sandy soil.

We took a short walk over to Lodgepole Spring to filter some water and fill the CNOC for later. After dinner, we settled in for the evening. Ted was beat from all that weight he hauled, and I wanted to have a good night’s rest before setting off for the summit in the morning. As I lay in my tent, the winds began to pick up. I hoped the weight of the rocks I had placed on my tent stakes would be enough to keep the tent from collapsing. Around 10pm, a strong gust blew through, and one side of the tent came falling onto me. I climbed out of the tent, flipped on my headlamp and staked down that guideline again, adding another rock to keep it in place. After crawling back in, I lay there listening to the wind howl through the trees. We must have been having 25 mph winds. Then around 11, another very strong gust blew through, once again knocking the same stake free. Now adding a third rock, I crawled back in, resigned to the fact that I probably was only to be cat napping throughout the night. Whenever I heard the rush of wind coming, I braced that trekking pole to prevent it from pulling the stake free.

I dozed from time to time, and around 6:30 am, I crawled out in the pre-dawn light, with Ted emerging soon thereafter. He also did not have a restful night, so we both agreed to skip attempting the summit and to hike back out. After breakfast, we packed up our gear and hit the trail around 7:30. We hiked along the rest of the shoreline we had skipped on the way in. In addition to the two backpackers that arrived after we did, we spotted a few tents at some of the campsites along the northeast of the lake. A couple of those sites actually looked to have some wind shelters built from some logs. Good to know for next time. We cruised down the trail toward that challenging water crossing. Instead of the route we used the day before, I scouted downstream for an option. I found a spot that wasn’t too bad and made it across. I called for Ted to trek over to me. I also repositioned a log for him and he crossed without incident. We returned to the logs we stopped at yesterday, and shed a layer. After a snack, I mixed up some electrolytes (had some cramps overnight, so that is something I need to be mindful of in the future).

The rest of the hike back out went quickly, passing some day hikers heading out to enjoy the trail. When we stopped at Horse Meadow for a break, I called Anita to let her know that our plans had changed and I would be home much earlier. Back at the car, we dropped our packs and changed clothes. As we drove down the road, an insect flew in, landed on Ted’s neck. When he went to brush it away, it stung him! Thankfully, I had some ice in a hydro flask, so he was able to use that to ease the pain. After grabbing a hot lunch at The Oaks, we cruised back home. While I am bummed about not getting to the summit and the “joy” of the tent collapsing twice, the backpacking experience was still a great trip.

Stormy San Gorgonio

I scanned the skies as I shouldered my pack on my back. There were some possible rain clouds forming over the mountains around me, but the forecast from NOAA had the chance at about 30%, so I decided to set off for my overnight trip up San Gorgonio. I crossed the road and onto the trail to begin my 6-mile hike up to Dry Lake. The area burned back in 2015 in the Lake Fire, so the landscape is a mix of new undergrowth and burned trees waiting to fall.

I reached Horse Meadow Camp and made a quick stop to explore a bit, but I knew those clouds around me might become an issue so I pressed on. At the junction for Poopout Hill, a group of young backpackers and their chaperone were taking a break. I chatted with them briefly to learn they were aiming to camp at Dollar Lake. I made the short detour to Poopout Hill, took a break, and enjoyed my PB&J for lunch. Off in the distance, I could see the summit of San Gorgonio. I waited for the group to set off before returning to the main trail. After a bit I felt a few drops of rain starting to fall, so I slipped on my pack cover and had my jacket ready. Pressing on, I knew I was starting to get close to the junction where the trail splits, with the left fork up to Dry Lake, and the right fork onto Dollar Lake. Then, as the rains started to pour, I quickly slipped on my rain jacket and spied a small tree to huddle under to offer maybe just a bit more protection. Thunder began to echo across the mountain and the rains continued. Then a flash of lightning darted across the skies, followed by hail! I had leap-frogged those young backpackers, and they came trundling past. One of them was using their tent’s rainfly as a poncho. I was fine huddling here, hoping the rain showers would be brief. After about 20 minutes or so, and no sign of it letting up, I broke open my bivy to act as my additional layer of protection. I wasn’t 100% certain that my jacket was actually water-proof and was feeling a bit damp. I sat there for about an hour, listening to the storm continue on. When it finally eased, I grabbed my pack and headed back down the mountain. As I made my way down, parts of the trail had now filled with water. Since my shoes were already soaked, I just pushed on through.

Along the way, I passed several hikers making their way up. I think they either hung out at Horse Camp while the storm did its thing or, as one backpacker told me, stayed in the car. When I reached Horse Camp, I had a cell signal and called my wife to let her know about the change of plans, and while I was on the phone, another rain shower passed over me. This time I was safely under the cabin’s roof. After the rain stopped, I hiked the last mile to the car, looking forward to getting out of my wet clothes. As I drove home, I felt very confident that I made the right call to turn back. This trip was just one of mistiming. If I had started later or earlier I could have probably avoided the thunderstorm and had a great trip, but I didn’t. Hopefully, the next time I try backpacking San Gorgonio, the weather will be in my favor…