Climbing Ontario and Bighorn Peaks

After dropping my son off at the airport for his early morning flight to Chicago, I took advantage of being awake at that hour and drove up Icehouse Canyon to hike Ontario and Bighorn Peaks. The parking lot had some cars in it when I arrived a bit after 7 am. I grabbed my gear, filled out my day-use permit at the trailhead, and set off up the canyon. I have said this before, but it is such a treat to hike in Southern California and hear the sounds of flowing water. As I made my way steadily upward, I passed several folks hiking up with their goal of reaching Icehouse Saddle, and a father and son who were headed to Cedar Glen to camp for the evening. At the saddle, I took a break behind a tree, as a steady breeze was flowing. Given it was going to be another warm day, that breeze was welcomed. After mixing up my electrolytes and finishing my snack, I set off toward Ontario Peak.

Since I hoped to also climb Bighorn Peak afterwards, I kept a close eye on the terrain around where the side trail should be. I found enough visual landmarks at the junction that I felt confident I would find it upon my descent. After finding the turn off, I continued along the ridgeline, pushing past the bushes that bees were busy pollinating. Soon, the peak came into view, and the final push to the summit. As expected, I had the peak to myself. I sat down and enjoyed my PB&J and some of those electrolytes. I planned ahead and bought my tripod to take some better summit photos. When those “chores” were done, I packed up and headed back down.

At the junction, I left the main trail and started toward Bighorn Peak. I caught a glint from the peak, so someone was up there. The trail to the summit was not as used as the main trail and I had to cross over several downed trees. Partway up the mountain, I met the hiker who had been on the summit. We chatted for a bit before parting ways. At the summit, I had another snack and took in the 360° views of the peaks around me: Cucamonga, Ontario, Baldy, Timber, and Telegraph peaks. This was my 50th peak on the Sierra Club Hundred Peaks Section list!

I now took the trail heading east, toward Cucamonga, until I found the trail that would generally follow the ridgeline back toward Icehouse Saddle. It was steep and a bit loose at times, but soon rejoined the Ontario Peak trail, not far from Icehouse Saddle. I continued my descent, stopping for a while to chat with a hiker taking a break. She was training for an attempt to climb Mt. Whitney later this month. I shared what I knew and offered her as much encouragement as I could. While I had enough water for the rest of the descent, I stopped at Columbine Spring to filter some extra. That cold water felt great, as the day had become quite toasty. The rest of the descent went quickly, with just a few flies bothering me from time to time. I got back in the car, changed shirts, and headed home. When I went to look up the actual recorded stats for the hike, Runkeeper lost the track. OnX Backcountry routes out the hike at 11.7 miles with 4,185 feet of gain. Using timestamps on my photos, I did the route in about 7 hours, 20 minutes. Just one more peak, San Jacinto, to climb to finish all 12 of the SoCal Six Pack of Peaks!

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer). Beyond attempting the San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list a second time, I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Way up in Elfin Forest

I wanted to get in a few miles before it got too hot, so I decided to take a hike in Elfin Forest. It had been a while since I hiked any of the trails out there. The parking lot doesn’t open until 8, so I didn’t rush to leave the house. About ten cars were already in the lot when I arrived at about 8:40. I grabbed my gear and set off. After crossing Escondido Creek, the trail begins its ascent via the Way Up Trail.

Nicely designed Trail markers called out the mileage and elevation. There were additional markers for those who might need assistance from emergency personnel. I passed a couple enjoying the shade of one of the shelters that are installed throughout the reserve. Once at the main trail junction, I decided to continue on up to the summit of Mount Israel, off to the west.

I started along the Ridgeline Road, then hopped onto the Equine Incline Loop Trail. While a bit rockier, I soon found myself at the Elfin Forest Overlook. Several more shade structures are here, along with a memorial pole for those who have lost their dogs. Just beyond the main area is the actual summit of Mount Israel. After a few photos, I opted to take the Manzanita trail instead, following the same route back.

This trail was also a rocky one, so a bit of care was needed. When this trail met with the Ridgeline Trail, I took a short walk to the Ray Brooks Overlook. It was warming up, and while the shade was nice, I wanted to get back down. I followed the Ridgeline Trail until the Mariposa Trail. I had never taken this one, so off I went.

It was a short little trail that quickly linked back up to Ridgeline Road. Before heading back down, I did a quick loop through the Ridgetop Picnic Area. I could feel the day continuing to heat up, so I cruised back down. When I reached the junction with the Botanical Trail, I decided to take it. All along the side of the trail, information plaques highlighted various plants and other items of interest. After a simple rock crossing of the creek, I returned back to the staging area. My wandering in Elfin Forest covered 4.7 miles with 1,055 feet of gain in 1:49.

Up the Baldy Bowl Trail

With a cup of hot coffee, I set off for the 2-hour drive to Manker Flats. The goal of today’s hike was to first climb Mt. Baldy, then climb Mt. Harwood as well. While 4:00 am comes awfully early, I certainly enjoy the lighter traffic on the freeways going to my various trailheads. After grabbing McDonald’s along the way, I pulled into a parking space at Manker Flats. While I have climbed Mt. Baldy twice before, those ascents were always during the Climb for Heroes hikes, and they use the Devil’s Backbone route both up and back. Today, I wanted to climb to the summit via the Ski Hut route. I quickly grabbed my gear, made sure my America the Beautiful pass was hanging from my mirror, and set off. My route initially was on the paved road that provides access to some of the cabins along the creek. As the pavement ended, I could see San Antonio Falls streaming down before me. This was another landmark that was new to me. I opted to save hiking over to it upon my return, and continued my climb on the now dirt road. Soon, the sign marking the Baldy Bowl Trail came into view. At the trail register, I signed in, then continued on.

From time to time, I would pass other hikers as I kept climbing. Views of the Baldy Bowl would appear through the trees, as did views of the LA basin to the south. Thankfully, the area was saved from the recent fire. I caught a glimpse of the famous ski hut up ahead of me, and before too long, I reached the small spur trail leading to it. After walking around, I took advantage of the toilet behind it. This would make a lovely rest stop, but I was feeling good, so I pressed on. The nearby spring was flowing nicely. While I had my water filter with me, I did not need any additional water.

The trail turned west, then crossed the base of the Baldy Bowl. Once past that section, the trail turned northward and began the ascent along the west side of the bowl to the peak. The trail would split apart from time to time, but it would always come back together. It was more of a “choose-your-own-adventure” type of experience. Occasionally, signs would help guide me along the route.

I could tell I was nearing the summit just by looking across to the east and seeing my position relative to the bowl. Soon, the rock shelters came into view, as did the metal plaque. I had reached the summit once again! There were a couple of others enjoying the views and the relativel quiet. This was quite the contrast to what the summit looks like during the Climb For Heroes (or probably most weekends).

I enjoyed some snacks and electrolytes under the cloudless skies. After taking a few photos, I began my descent via the Devil’s Backbone. My next goal was to climb Mt. Harwood, which sits just to the north of the main trail. This peak is on the Hundred Peaks Section list and was to be my 49th. Unlike during the Climb for Heroes, I was under no time pressures. A use trail took me up and over to the summit. There is no register or benchmark, just rewarding views.

After rejoining the main trail, I navigated the Devil’s Backbone without issue. I opted to take the straighter route down to the Notch, and my knees were not happy. Once at the Notch, I found a table in the shade and enjoyed my PB&J while staring back up at the peak I just climbed.

While the ski lift was running, which had some appeal, I grabbed my poles and set off down the service road. Soon, I reached the spur trail to the falls and made my way over to them. A few folks were there enjoying the cool water. I grabbed a few photos, dunked my hat under the falls, and headed back to the car. After my miscalculations about Mt. Whitney, doing this hike felt redemptive. I covered the 9.9 miles in 5:11 (sans time at the summit and the Notch), and recorded over 4,495 feet of gain. That leaves just two more peaks left to complete all 12 peaks on the Six Pack of Peaks Challenge-SoCal.

Best Laid Plans…

It was another cold night at camp, according to my Govee, the low was 27! However, my legs were feeling great after our hike up to Cottonwood Lake. I had hoped they would recover enough during the night to feel comfortable about climbing Mt. Whitney on Tuesday, but when my right calf cramped some, I knew that I had to call it before we began. I felt awful about it. It was solely my fault for overdoing it.

We still went up to Whitney Portal like we had planned and enjoyed our pancake (yes, single) and eggs. We wandered over to the trailhead and watched a group of backpackers weigh their packs before heading off. The mountain will be there, and no need to create an incident if my legs aren’t up to the task. It was a hard lesson to learn, but there will be a next time! The drive home was uneventful; that pancake kept us mostly full for the entire drive! I hope my friends who are trying to summit in the coming week have better luck than I did.

Exploring Cottonwood Lakes

I awoke to a layer of frost on the top of my Outback. Thankfully, my sleep system worked great, and I didn’t feel it overnight. After cooking up a nice warm breakfast and enjoying a hot beverage, Ted and I set off for another acclimation hike. We had several options to choose from: hike up Cottonwood Pass to Chicken Spring Lake, head up to Muir Lake, or go to Cottonwood Lakes. Since I had backpacked Chicken Spring Lake last year, I was more inclined to visit either Muir Lake or some of the Cottonwood Lakes. We wouldn’t have to decide until about 4 1/2 miles in, so we began hiking north along the Cottonwood Lakes Trail. A fairly steady stream of backpackers came hiking down as we kept making our way up. At one point, we had to step aside to allow some burros and their handlers to pass by. They were returning from supplying the Golden Trout Wilderness Camp.

After a couple of crossings of Cottonwood Creek, we came to a trail junction. The left fork headed to New Army Pass, while the right fork would still give us the option to go to Muir Lake. A group of backpackers was taking a break, and we chatted a bit, mostly about the classic external framed pack that one of them was using. It turns out he has been using it since the 60s! While we had been climbing a bit, the real elevation gain was now before us. The climb wasn’t too bad, but you could feel that we were closing in on 11,000 feet.

Soon, the trail eased, and we reached the junction to Muir Lake. We opted to head to Cottonwood Lake #2 as our lunch destination. As we passed by Cottonwood Lake #1, a golden eagle soared above us! What a sight, and we caught a photo of it. We followed the shoreline to a nice spot for lunch. What a view–I can see why permits to camp here are so coveted. Trout could be seen swimming in the clear water as we ate and relaxed. We filtered some water and began to head back to camp. Instead of taking the same trail, this time we used the New Army Pass Trail. I’m so glad we did, as we were rewarded with a lovely waterfall.

As we made our way back, fresh backpackers were making their way up the trail to begin their adventures. After rejoining the Cottonwood Lakes Trail, I began to notice my legs starting to feel the miles and effort. I hoped I had not overdone it with this hike. As we continued on, that fear kept growing. Maybe once at camp and a good night’s sleep, I might recover.

Back at camp, I took it easy. After making a simpler dinner, we again enjoyed a night campfire before turning in. I hoped that I had not sabotaged my ability to climb Mt. Whitney by doing too much to acclimatize. To be continued…The final stats for this hike were 13.1 miles and 1,480 feet of gain. Not counting our lunch break, the hike took us 5:45.

Hiking Trail Pass – Horseshoe Meadows

With the Outback packed with our gear for two nights at Horseshoe Meadows, we set off just after 8. The drive was uneventful, and we made it into Lone Pine for lunch before making the drive up the mountain. Once at the walk-in campground, Ted found a site to pitch his tent, while I registered our stay. I planned to sleep in the car, so all I really had to do was transfer our food into the bear locker. Once everything was squared away, we set off on a light hike up Trail Pass to help us get acclimated.

We strolled through Horseshoe Meadows, making the crossing over the creek that flows through. From there, we began the gentle climb toward the pass. It felt good to stretch my legs after the drive up from San Diego. At the pass, we chatted with some other hikers section hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. After our short break, we set off along the PCT southbound to Mulkey Pass. Once at that pass, we began our return descent to the meadow. This trail was a bit steeper and not as clearly used as the trail we used when we went up. When the trail reached the southern edge of the meadow, it turned northeastward for a bit before crossing the meadow proper. We were a bit east of our camp, so we had a short road walk to complete our loop.

As the day drew to a close, I cooked up some dinner (blackened salmon, rice pilaf, caesar salad, and sourdough) and then we relaxed by the fire before turning in for the night. Our loop covered 5.34 miles, 785 feet of gain, and took us 2:14.

Overnight to San Gorgonio

They say the third time is the charm, right? I wanted one last hard hike before Ted and I attempt to summit Mt. Whitney. I debated between hiking up Ontario and Bighorn or doing San Gorgonio as an overnight trip. With the water sources on San Gorgonio slowly drying up, I figured I should take that option. I pulled into the familiar parking lot and quickly gathered my gear. It was a bit warm, but there was enough of a breeze to offset it. I drank my liter of water and crossed over the road. I opted to only carry 1/2 liter of water and another 1/2 liter of electrolytes. My plan was to possibly filter at the crossing of the South Fork of the Santa Ana River if needed, and really load up on water at Lodgepole Spring. Instead of camping at Dry Lake, I decided to aim for camping further along at the Trail Flats campsite. The first part of the hike went quickly, and I, of course, made a stop at Poopout Hill for a photo. Soon, I reached the junction with Dry Lake Trail and Dollar Lake Trail. I crossed over the side streams and continued to the river. When Ted and I were here last August, it was flowing enough to make us cross cautiously. This time, I could simply rock hop across the water. I still had plenty of water and was feeling good for the next section. The next 1.6 miles would climb about 850 feet, and be a good workout. One difference from my last time here is that I weigh about 25 pounds less! I cruised through this section, and soon Dry Lake came into view. It certainly was smaller than last time. I took the trail along the north side over the spur trail to Lodgepole Spring. The spring was still flowing, but I had to go a bit further to find a good spot to fill up and filter. The plan was to fill both bottles, as well as my 3L CNOC bag, and haul all that up to Trail Flats. My light backpack just got heavier.

I continued looping around the edge of the lake until I rejoined the main trail and started the climb to camp. From here on out, the trail would be new to me. Over the next mile, I would climb over 500 feet. While the pack was about 10 lbs heavier, I felt good. I spotted the campsite sign attached high on a tree, and began to survey my options. I quickly found a nice flat spot and began setting up camp. I opted to bring my REI QuarterDome SL1 this time, since there would be no moon in the night sky, and I could lie in the tent and stare at the stars above.

I made dinner, watching the sun slowly dip behind the ridge. I hung my Adotec food bag and crawled under my quilt. The stars slowly began showing themselves as I continued to listen to The Two Towers. When it was dark enough, I was going to do some astrophotography, but my iPhone had offloaded AstroShader, so I could only use the built-in camera. Since I was hoping to reach the summit for sunrise, I set an alarm for 3 am. Some night hiking will also be good practice for Whitney.

The alarm went off, and I broke camp. I had debated leaving most of the gear here and hiking lighter to the summit. But in the end, I just packed up everything and set off. It was cold, and I was wearing my sun hoodie, my camp shirt, and my puffy, but quickly shed the puffy. The trail was easy to follow under the light of my headlamp. I ate a bar at Mine Shaft Saddle and pushed on under the starry skies.

The trail climbed at a nice grade along the east side of the mountain. The faint glow of the coming sunrise started to show off to the east. I passed the C-47 crash site without seeing it. It started to get colder as I kept gaining elevation, and I finally stopped and put the puffy back on. The lights of Palm Springs also came into view as I worked my way up a series of switchbacks, before the trail turned westward. The sun’s rays illuminated San Jacinto’s summit to my south, letting me know I had mistimed my attempt. Oh well, the night hiking was still good practice. The trail turned northward and reached the junction with the Vivian Creek Trail, just 0.4 miles from the summit. I remember how hard it was this last time I was here. Now I felt pretty good, with just a small headache.

I reached the summit and spotted a tent set up in one of the wind shelters. I took some photos with the summit signs before heading over to the tent. The occupant had come out and he gave me a wave. He had arrived at the summit around 9 last night via Vivian Creek and said it was cold and windy overnight. I fired up my stove, made a cup of coffee, and ate my oatmeal. We chatted for a bit while we each ate our breakfasts. The small headache faded away, and I assume it was either the need for some caffeine or a bit more fluids.

As much as I enjoyed our conversation, I knew I had quite a few miles left to hike to get back to the car. I debated whether I should return the same way I ascended, or loop around and come back via Dollar Lake. I opted to try the Dollar Lake route, as it was a bit shorter. I bid him farewell and set off back down the trail. I paused at the junction back to Dry Lake and mulled it over once again, but decided to stick to the plan. The trail split again, the left fork heading down to Vivian Creek, and the right fork heading toward Dollar Lake. I guess there are enough people not paying attention that a warning sign had to be added to keep people on the right track.

Another reason that I opted to take this route was that the trail passes by several Hundred Peak Section peaks, and I was considering adding them to the adventure. I didn’t do any advanced planning, so I only had whatever the topo maps showed me and what my eyes actually revealed about each summit. The sun had started to warm things up, and I stashed my puffy back into my pack. I was also right near Jepson Peak. I looked over the map, and it looked like it was a 0.2 mile jaunt off-trail to the summit, with almost 300 feet of gain. The legs were feeling good, so I went for it. I zig-zagged up the side of the peak until I reached its summit. There was no marker here, and I skipped signing the register. I did have a nice view of San Gorgonio off to my east as a reward. I then followed the ridgeline over to a small bump to the north, before working my way back down to the trail. Once back on the trail, I cruised along. Santiago and Modejska Peaks could be seen off to the southwest, rising above the marine layer. As I neared Dollar Lake Saddle, I decided that climbing Charleston and Little Charleston Peaks would have to wait. If I had brought an extra liter of water, I might have considered it. The rest of the hike would now be sunny and warm, so I wanted to conserve my fluids, as I still had almost 6 miles to go.

The trail did become both more exposed to the sun and rockier in nature as it worked its way downward. I put on my headphones and resumed my audiobook. I was at the part of the story when Merry and Pippin meet the Ents. Seemed perfect timing as I walked through the wilderness. After 2.3 miles, I again reached the junction to Dry Lake. I took a break under the shade of some lovely trees. I still had enough fluids to get me back to the car, so I did not wander over to the nearby creek to filter some additional water. The last 3.6 miles went quickly, passing backpackers making their way up to their campsites, and a day hiker or two. Soon, I passed the cabins at Horse Meadows and knew my adventure was drawing to a close. I am extremely happy to have climbed San Gorgonio again and to have done it as an overnight adventure. The entire hike was 22.41 miles, with 5,116 feet of gain. My hiking time was 3:59 from the trailhead to camp, 2:38 from camp to summit, and finally 4:45 from summit back to the car. Now to rest up and start packing for Mt. Whitney!

Up Mount Baden-Powell

When the closure order for the Bridge Fire was lifted, this meant Mount Baden-Powell could once again be summited. However, the road to Vincent Gap was still closed, meaning either starting the hike with a 5-mile road walk or approaching it from Windy Gap. A few days ago, the road was opened past Wrightwood to Vincent Gap, so I decided to make the drive up and hike the 40+ switchbacks to the top. As I passed Wrightwood, I could see the damage caused by the Bridge Fire. Drawing nearer to the parking area, Mount Baden-Powell came into view. The south-east side clearly had been hit by the fire, while the north-east side still looked nice and green. Just before the fire occurred, a new parking fee was introduced for the main lot and a $5 pass is needed to park there. Previously, I would just hang my America the Beautiful pass and be fine. Now, even that pass will not work. If I park across the road, my pass is all I need. For more on this, watch this video. There were two cars in the “paid” lot and one car across the road. I grabbed my new backpack and set off. I was trying out the Osprey Hikelite 26 as an option for my upcoming attempt to climb Mt. Whitney.

It had been a few years since I took this route, but I certainly remembered that first steep “Welcome to Mount Baden-Powell” section. The trail eases up after 1/10th of a mile and starts working its way up the face of the mountain. It was slightly humid, but the shade of the trees helped. Switchback after switchback passed by, and I kept a good solid pace.

After two sets of hikers, I drew nearer to the summit as the distance between switchbacks reduced. Then the Wally Walden tree came into view. This tree is estimated to be over 1,500 years old. I made the rest of the push to the summit, where two hikers were hanging out. I found a spot to take a break and soak in the views for a bit. The other hikers said their goodbyes and began their descent. I did some filming of the monument to Lord Baden-Powell and the vistas from the summit before I also headed down. The descent went quickly, and I decided to go over and see Lamel Spring. The trail got a bit dicey just before the spring, but it was still flowing so it was worth it. I suppose if you were camping partway up, you could save a bit of water weight. I passed several other hikers making their way up. Soon, the parking lot came back into view. The new pack worked out nicely and might become my primary daypack. Originally, I had planned to grab lunch in Wrightwood, but it was too early, so I waited until I was closer to home and hit The Rib Shack in Fallbrook. I covered the 8.3-mile (including the side trip to the spring) in 3:393 with an elevation gain of 2,745 feet.

Backpacking the Yosemite High Sierra Camps

The adventure began with kissing my wife goodbye, patting our dog, and setting off toward Lee Vining. I had said goodbye to my son, who recently moved home to become the Youth Director at our synagogue, the night before. The first stop was at a Starbucks, as a large coffee was needed for the long drive. I was meeting Rick to borrow a small tripod as both of the ones I ordered to replace the one I lost when hiking Sawmill were delayed in arriving. With Rick’s tripod now in hand, I began the drive north. Traffic was not too bad, and the podcasts passed the time.

My first stop was the Eastern Sierra Visitor Center in Lone Pine. I had a question about our upcoming permit to climb Mt. Whitney, and wanted to swap out a plastic Junior Ranger badge for a wooden one. Unfortunately, I arrived during their lunch break, and they were closed. I did, however, see some runners racing in the Badwater 135 and support cars were parked throughout the town.

My next stop was Manzanar National Historic Site, again to obtain a Junior Ranger badge. Sadly, due to staffing issues, the Visitor Center is now closed from Tuesday through Thursday. Ted and I will have to return when we come back for our Whitney attempt. I already knew that the Copper Top BBQ was closed, and found Mountain Rambler Brewery as a replacement for my lunch stop. After a fine burger and a tasty flight, I made a quick stop for gas and continued northward. As I neared Mono Lake, I saw a sign saying there would be a Ranger-led walk at 6 pm. I certainly had time for this, but after checking into the motel and unloading my gear, I drove over to the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center to confirm that the walk was still scheduled. The kind volunteer said it was. I also inquired about any Junior Ranger badges, and they indeed had one for the Inyo National Forest! I made the 15-minute drive back to the south shore of Mono Lake and waited on a bench.

Our walk was led by a staffer from the Mono Lake Committee, Ana. She had recently started working there and was full of enthusiasm about the lake. About 15 of us walked the Loop Trail, stopping at various points to learn about a wide range of topics. I left toward the end, as I was getting hungry and wanted a good night’s sleep.

Dinner was the “world-famous” fish tacos at the Whoa Nellie Deli. The mango salsa one was outstanding, and the ginger coleslaw was good as well. I watched the sun set on the lake and headed back to the motel. Earlier in the day, I made the 30-minute drive into Yosemite National Park to pick up my Wilderness Permit, as well as a Junior Ranger booklet. I figured I could work on it that evening in the motel, which I did. With that task complete, it was time to turn in for the night. Tomorrow would begin 6 days of backpacking through Yosemite’s backcountry.

Day 1: Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin

After a fairly good night’s rest in the motel, I took my last shower for almost a week. I walked down the highway to Nicely’s for a good breakfast to start off this adventure. Given that the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center did not open until 9 am, I was not in a rush. I swung by the Whoa Nellie Deli again to grab a ready-made sandwich for my lunch. The drive back to the park was uneventful, except for the dead deer on the side of the highway. I pulled into the parking lot for the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center and stored my backpack in a nearby bear locker. I went in and presented my completed Junior Ranger booklet. After a little chat with the Ranger, I was sworn in as a Junior Ranger for Yosemite. On her suggestion, I opted to park back at the Wilderness Permit Station. I checked back in with the rangers there in case something had changed. They reported all was good, just a few mosquitoes at spots. With that, it was time to hit the trail. I stepped onto the PCT and followed it westward. The trail paralleled Tioga Road for a bit before crossing it and following the road to the Glen Aulin Trailhead. Along the way, I was stopped by a woman assembling her backpacking gear, and she had a question about the parking for Glen Aulin. I told her where I had parked, but I was planning on doing the whole loop. She thanked me, and we parted ways.

The first point of interest was Soda Springs. This is a naturally carbonated spring that sits on the edge of the meadow. You can take a taste, which I did. It was slightly fizzy, with a bit of a metallic tinge.

The trail was mostly downhill for the first day, and with 6 days of food on my back, I was thankful. I took a short break and watched the waters of the Tuolumne River flow past. There I met a lady day-hiking to Glen Aulin, and we hiked down the trail together. We crossed the first bridge over the Tuolumne and saw some PCT hikers grabbing a few photos. We continued on down the trail, chatting about the state of our parks and public lands.

About 5 miles in, we met a Ranger on patrol. We chatted a bit, and I presented my permit. She commented on how small my pack seemed. I replied that I was leveraging the bear lockers at each site, so I left my heavy bear can in the car and was storing my food in my new Adotec bag. She said it was perfectly fine, given that each site does have lockers. If I were adventuring elsewhere, then an approved bear can would be needed.

Soon, the sounds of a waterfall began to fill the air, and this meant we were drawing close to Glen Aulin. The bridge that crossed the Tuolumne River into Glen Aulin had been destroyed due to high snow a few years back, but thankfully had been rebuilt. Once across, we took a second bridge over Conness Creek into camp. She found a nice spot to have her lunch, and I did a quick tour of the backpacking site. The High Sierra Camps are built in two parts: the actual camp and its associated infrastructure, and a section for traditional backpackers. The camps were not open this year, so the various tents and other structures were not assembled. Continuing on to the backpacking area, I skipped the first collection of sites, as several spots were already taken, and continued on. I found a set of sites up on a granite ridge, all of which were unclaimed. I left my poles on a site that looked perfect, and returned down to also have my lunch with my hiking companion. When done, she headed back up the trail. I then tossed my food into the bear locker before making the short climb to my campsite. I decided to change which spot I picked upon closer inspection of the slope. Soon, I had my tent set up and was good for the evening. I wandered down to the river’s edge to fill my CNOC water bag, so I could filter some water later.

I found a nice shady spot and took a short nap. Once refreshed, I wandered around camp, including taking advantage of the composting toilet. I chatted with some of the other campers: a few PCTers, an Outward Bound group, and eventually the woman I met at the beginning of the hike. I sauntered down the trail that parallels the Tuolumne to explore some of the falls downstream for a bit. There I saw my first Marmot, but didn’t have time to snap a photo. I returned to camp to have dinner. I found a spot far enough away from my tent to make and eat my pasta. After cleaning up and storing the rest of the scented items, I turned in. I was tired from the day’s hike, and lying in my tent listening to my audiobook for a bit was just what I needed. A full moon would be rising soon, so that would put a damper on any stargazing or astrophotography. I turned my phone off to save some battery and drifted off to sleep. I forgot to mention, I did check in with Anita and let her know that I was safely at camp.

DAY 2: Glen Aulin to May Lake

Sleep was about what I expected. I was actually a tad too warm, but this is one of the lower elevation sites, so I might still want my better quilt at the other camps. I awoke at first light, but fell back asleep for another 30 minutes. I packed up my gear, made a pit stop, then gathered my food and scented items from the locker. I went down to the river’s edge and had my breakfast of oatmeal and a cup of coffee. I properly re-packed my backpack and set off. Today’s journey would be hiking about 8 miles up to May Lake. According to one guide I read, I would be gaining about 1,400 feet of elevation. While this would almost be trivial back home, I had a fairly full backpack and was starting at 7,880 feet.

I crossed back over the Tuolumne River, the morning light shining through the mists from the waterfall, and made the steep climb to the junction with the trail to May Lake. This trail heads mostly southward, first toward McGee Lake. The mosquitoes were out in force, so the bug net quickly came out. The trail initially worked its way upward through the forest. The views were stunning, and occasionally I would dart off the trail to explore a possible viewpoint. About 3 miles in, I took a break and, since I had a clear view of the sky, sent a check-in message back home. I shouldered my pack again and set off. There was very little breeze, so it was a tad warm.

Just after one steeper section, I took another break under the shade and to soak in the views. I then began a series of switchbacks, and after about 10 minutes, I went to grab the tripod, and it was missing! It must have fallen off my pack where I took my break, so I turned and hiked back. At the rest stop, it was nowhere to be found. Ugh! I gave up looking there and started back up the trail, and just after the first switchback, I spotted it on the trail. I had walked right over it on the way down. Crisis averted. I tightened the strap I had been using to hold it on my pack and kept climbing. This section was very sun-exposed, so I was feeling the sun’s rays upon me. I took another break and adjusted my socks and shoes. Before leaving, I again checked that the tripod was still secure. Soon, I crested a small saddle and began the short and gentle descent to May Lake. Its waters were a welcoming sight. I had forgotten to “camel up” before leaving Glen Aulin, so I drank more than I planned for during my ascent. I passed through the closed camp’s foundations and buildings before finding a spot for the night. It was only about noon, so I had a lot of time to kill.

I again stashed my food in a locker, filtered some water, and under the shade of the trees, ate my lunch. I drank some electrolytes to replace those that I sweated away. I then found another shady spot and took a well-earned nap. My tracker recorded the climb as over 1,930 feet of gain. Quite a difference from what I had read eariler. That would explain the tightness in my calf. I certainly was hiking faster than I would have had I done a better job in understanding this section of the trip. I explored the area some more, stretching the calf, trying to get some relief. I went back down the water’s edge and soaked my feet in the cool waters. I opted for a second nap, because why not? I started considering my options. The next day’s hike was listed as “very strenuous” with about 1,600 feet of descent over 3 miles, followed by an ascent of almost the same amount but in just over a mile. The following day was a long descent, and then the day after that was the climb over Vogelsang Pass. If my calf worsened, I would be in for some long days. Knowing I had plans to attempt Mt. Whitney later in the month also weighed on my mind. I sat under the shade and considered my options. I took my phone out of Alpine mode and discovered that I had two bars of signal. I guess we had a line of sight into Yosemite Valley. I spoke with Anita, and I decided to let the descent tomorrow be the judge. If the calf felt ok, then I would continue my trek. If not, I would cross Tiagoa Road and should be able to get a hitch back to my car. With a plan in place, I cooked up my dinner and watched the sun dip behind the mountains.

Day 3: May Lake to Sunrise Trailhead

I awoke just after 5:30 and quickly packed up. The calf did not cramp overnight, but I could still feel it as I broke camp. Instead of making breakfast, I tossed a few bars into my hip belt pocket and set off. I figured the sooner I got to the road, the better I might find a hiker driving in for a day hike.

The descent went smoothly, and from time to time, I could see Half Dome in the distance. When the grade was steep enough, I could feel the tightness in my calf, validating my decision to end early. I reached the first May Lake Trailhead and tossed the trash I had been carrying. From there, I continued on the High Country Highway, according to the information sign. Bits of the asphalt were visible as I hiked along.

I did spy a bear print in the sand, just a reminder that there is a reason for all those warnings. Upon reaching the road, I crossed over and cruised on toward the Sunrise Trailhead. I figured I would have a better chance getting a hitch there than just on the side of the road with no place to pull over. This section was nice and flat, and my calf was thankful. I was bummed not to be continuing, as, except for that issue, everything else was going pretty well. The parking lot was filled with cars and hikers getting ready to head out. This is the primary trailhead for Cloud’s Rest, an epic hike that takes you to a view of Yosemite Valley from the east end. It is one that is on my list as well. I stood with my thumb out, and after a few cars drove past, two ladies in a Jeep pulled over and offered me a lift. Turns out they were backpacking down to Glen Aulin, so I filled them in with everything I just did. They dropped me off at the Lambert Dome parking area, and they headed down the side road to find parking. I cruised back to the car. Once back at the car, I tossed my backpack in and was going to stop off at the permit office, but the line was out the door.

I had tickets to see Alison Krauss and Union Station back in San Diego that night, so I was on a timetable. I purchased those tickets before I won the lottery for this trip. We had been trying to sell them, but had no luck. I stopped off at the small market and bought a cup of coffee to go with another bar I was eating. At the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center, I took advantage of the real restroom to change out of my hiking gear and into something comfortable to make the long drive home. Since I did not get my Yosemite patch when I was at the Visitor Center on Wednesday, I had to wait for them to open at 9. Once they did open, I grabbed my patch and a couple of other items, paid for them, and hit the road. I fueled the car back up in Bishop. Unfortunately, I would be passing through Big Pine too early to stop at Copper Top BBQ, so I would have to settle for something quick in Lone Pine. I did make another stop at Manzanar and got both my Junior Ranger badge and an Eastern Sierra Pear that was grown nearby. The rest of the drive was as exciting as you might imagine. I made it home in time to shower and make it to the concert, which I enjoyed, and my wife tolerated. Now to let that calf recover for a few days, then keep focusing on Mt. Whitney!

Up Clevenger Canyon North

Both Ted and I are researching new packs for our upcoming hike of Mt. Whitney. We are both trying to find something with enough room for the food and gear we will need, but that is light and comfortable for the 22 miles that the packs will be sitting on our backs. I have one option, my Osprey Daylite Plus, but I am also going to try the Osprey Hikelite 26 Pack. While I have used the Daylite Plus on some longer hikes, my back always seemed drenched. Ted is also working through various pack options, and wanted to try my Osprey Stratos 36, which I typically use. Initially, I thought about hiking one of the hikes on the 2025-2026 Coast to Crest Challenge, but none of them seemed like a good test of the pack for Ted. So, I instead picked one of the 100 Peak Challenge hikes that Ted still needs to do, Clevenger Canyon North. We made the short drive out to the parking area and gathered our gear. The marine layer still hung above us, making the day a bit humid as we set off down toward the creek. We noted the rocks were covered in graffiti. Once at the creek, which was lightly flowing, we began the climb in earnest.

Sadly, the graffiti continued on the trail. I only hope that those who did this got a nice case of poison oak. We kept climbing the south face of the peak, and the sun was slowly burning through. There is no shade on this hike, so I recommend either starting early or waiting for the cooler months to do it. I checked in on Ted of how the pack felt, and he said it was pretty good. After a bit of climbing and seeing even more graffiti, we reached the turn-off to the Clevenger Canyon North Viewpoint. We followed a small spur trail to the viewpoint, where the famous chairs could be seen across the canyon. After scrambling down from the rocks, we set off to also climb Peak 1820, which sits just to the north of the viewpoint. I pulled up a previous track and set off through the low brush. After weaving our way through, we reached the summit. After a few more photos, we headed back down the trail. The descent went quickly, and we pushed back up to the parking area. Ted now has 20 peaks left for the 100 Peak Challenge. I logged this trek at 4.9 miles in 2:29, with 1461 feet of gain. As to whether Ted is going to use that pack on Whitney, not sure yet…