Alone on South Fortuna

For some reason, I had the desire to climb the South Fortuna Stairs, so I pulled into the San Diego River Crossing Staging Area and grabbed my gear. I headed down the service road to the river crossing. The river was almost completely stagnant as I walked across the small weir. From there, I followed the San Diego River Crossing Trail under the warm sun up to the junction with the Suycott Valley Trail. Now, to lose that elevation that I just gained to connect with the South Fortuna Trail. Being early afternoon on a weekday, there was not another visitor to be seen.

After a short climb onto the ridge, the stairs started to come into view. While it’s not the Manitou Incline, it is still a good, challenging climb. Once I got past the stairs, I still had a bit to go to the actual summit. It was a nice, clear day, so the other peaks of Mission Trails were standing proudly. Maybe someday I will finally do them all in one day…

After a quick break, I continued northward toward the Fortuna Saddle. I opted not to climb North Fortuna today and descended back down to Suycott Valley Trail from the saddle. Along the way, I passed a small memorial for someone who I later learned recently died there in a mountain biking accident. Throughout the hike, the buzz of small planes and the occasional military aircraft filled the air, but I also heard a helicopter. Looking off to the east, I spied Rescue 1 flying toward the Climbers Loop. It appears a climber had taken a fall, and a rescue was underway. I never found out more about the incident. When I arrived back at the trailhead, Mission Gorge northbound was closed. The entire hike was 5.2 miles, in 2:34, with a healthy 1,265 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and both the Arizona-Winter and Arizona-Summer). I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

A loop through Arroyo Seco

I pulled into Green Valley Campground and paid my $10 day-use fee. Since the Cuyamaca Endurance 100k was happening, I found parking near the entrance rather than closer to the trailhead, which was being used by the racers. I gathered my gear and set off. I was also trying on my new Ridge Merino hoodie for this hike.

I planned to hike to the Arroyo Seco Primitive Campground, then continue up to the ridge and back down to the trailhead. The hike to the campground follows the Arroyo Seco Fire road. The grade is pretty gentle, so if you have a heavy pack or this is your first overnight adventure, it won’t feel like you are summiting Mt. Everest.

The campground has three sites. Site 1 is back behind the water pump. This water is intended for horses traveling through this area, so please bring your own. Just past this spot, you will see signage to sites 2 and 3, as well as the horse corrals and the path to the pit toilets. Both sites 2 and 3 have picnic tables and enough room for a tent.

After my survey, I continued along the fire road for a bit. When I arrived at the Fox Trail junction, I noticed that the racers had stayed on the fire road, so I took the Fox Trail. This single-track trail worked its way up the slope. I was sweating a bit, as my new shirt was keeping me a bit too toasty. Once it really starts to cool off, it is going to be perfect. Once on the ridge, I turned eastward and followed the West Mesa Trail back down. Since I was going to pass right by Airplane Ridge, I had to hop off the trail and bag that peak again. Unfortunately, it appears that the register is no longer there.

Once back on the main trail, I kept motoring on. I debated making the side trip to the Airplane Monument, but decided to skip it and follow the Monument Trail instead. From time to time, I had some sweeping views off to the east. Soon, I found myself approaching the campground as I passed the amphitheater just before reaching the parking lot. It was a nice loop for my first fall hike of 2025. I logged it at 5.28 miles in 2:07 with a gain of 999 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Adventures in Mt. Rainer National Park

Our first hike in Mount Rainier National Park was the 0.4-mile Twin Firs Loop Trail. Sadly, the namesake firs are gone, but we had a nice stroll through some old-growth forest.

After a quick stop at the visitor center in Longmire, we took a nice saunter along the Trail of the Shadows. There we saw some mineral springs and an old cabin.

We then made a short stop at Christine Falls to admire both the falls and the bridge that spans the narrow Van Trump Creek canyon. Next on our journey to Paradise was Narada Falls. This required hiking down about 200 feet of elevation to really get a good view of the cascading water.

Once we reached Paradise (aka Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center), we found some parking and set off on another hike, this time along the Nisqually Vista Trail. While the entire trail is paved, the 1.2-mile loop gave us some great views of the mountain. Once done with the loop, we took a connector trail to the visitor center. We both were getting hungry, so we first checked out the offerings at the Tatoosh Cafe in the Paradise Inn, but nothing struck our fancy. The main dining room was not open, so that option was out. So, we strolled back to the grab-and-go place in the visitor center.

After our lunch, I got my Junior Ranger badge. While the air quality wasn’t great, I still wanted to get in a more strenuous hike. I grabbed a KN95 mask and set off up the Skyline Trail while Anita stayed and relaxed at the visitor center. While initially paved, the trail wasted no time in gaining some elevation. Thankfully, the grade eased, and I cruised along. The views of Rainier were stunning, with the various glaciers scattered about its face. At Glacier Vista, I marveled at the waterfall spilling off Wilson Glacier.

Since I had made good time, I continued along the Skyline Trail to Panorama Point. There, my views turned southward. I could see the haze hanging in the air, and was again thankful to have my mask on. I debated doing the whole Skyline Loop, but opted to mostly retrace my ascent but take an alternative route to climb Alta Vista. I continued down to the visitor center and found Anita comfortably sitting inside. I bought a few small souvenirs and we headed out.

Although we had some delays due to road construction, we stopped at Reflection Lake for one last stroll. I knew the air quality would mean that hiking up to Pinnacle Saddle would not afford the views of the mountain that I would want, so with that, we headed out of the park and checked into our hotel.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

A “berry” good time at Kanaka Flats

The parking lot was empty when we arrived. It was just after 7:30, and Ted and I were hoping that our early start would let us avoid some of the forecasted heat. We cruised down the wide trail/road, with the occasional cow or two off to the side.

After crossing the creek, we began the climb up toward Kanaka Flat. Once there, we turned north, then left the main trail and followed a well-used cow path that led us up to the ridge. The path faded into the grasses, but we pushed southward along the ridge. I found the rock pile again, and after double-checking our position on Peakbagger, we had reached the summit.

We snapped a few photos and then discussed our descent. Option 1: retrace our route. Option 2: follow a path down toward the east and rejoin the trail there. Option 3: Continue southward along the ridgeline until we rejoined the main trail. We chose option 3. We were soon back on the main trail and headed back to the trailhead. We met a few other folks heading out while we hustled back to the back. Along the way, we stopped and picked a few blackberries growing along the side of the trail. While some were tart, a couple were nice and ripe. Once back at the car, we tossed in our gear while a nearby horse trailer was being unloaded. The car said it was already 82°F! This longer loop was 6.7 miles, and we covered it in 2:25. Our total elevation gain was 912 feet.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Climbing Bernardo Mountain

I met Becca at the Piedras Pintadas Trailhead for a hike up Bernardo Mountain. She had never climbed it, and since she only had a few hours, this seemed like a perfect choice. We finally had our first heat wave, so we agreed on an early start to try to beat the heat. The parking lot was empty when I arrived, and Becca arrived soon thereafter. We grabbed our gear and set off down the bike path, then across the bridge. The lake is still mostly dry, as work continues on the Lake Hodges Dam.

The summit was hidden under the marine layer as we turned off the main trail and onto the Bernardo Mountain Trail. A stream of trail runners came down the trail, and we let them pass. We continued along the trail, and mountain bikers would pass us from time to time, along with some other hikers and runners.

We reached the summit, and enjoyed it to ourselves for a bit, and took in the views, as the marine layer had burned off. Puffy clouds hung across the sky as we made our way back down from the summit. More and more hikers and bikers filled the trail, reminding me why I usually hike this peak during the weekdays. When we got back to the car, the temperature was in the mid-80s at 9:30 in the morning. I tracked the hike as 6.6 miles in length and did it in 2:59, and had 832 feet of gain.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Up O’Leary Peak

I awoke around dawn from my campsite next to Sunset Crater National Monument. Off to the north stood my destination for the day, O’Leary Peak. I made a nice breakfast over the camp stove before I gathered my gear to head out. Bonita Campground was just south of the service road that I would take to the summit. Rather than pack everything up to make the short drive out of my campsite and over to the actual trailhead, I simply hiked a bit cross-country. I did have to make a small scramble over an ancient lava flow, however. Once on the service road, I backtracked about 300 yards to the formal start of the trail, since I was filming this hike. And with that, I set off down the road. The first part of the hike was very mellow, as the road worked its way gently past the edge of the Bonita Lava Flow, then the boundary of Sunset Crater National Monument. At the base of the peak, the road began its climb. Thankfully, being a road, the grade was nothing dramatic.

I kept cruising along, with views of Sunset Crater to my south, Darton Dome to my east, O’Leary rising above me to the north, and mighty Humphreys Peak to my west. Partway up, I saw the dust cloud of a car driving up the road, and moved to the side to let it pass. This was the person who would be staffing the tower, making their way to the summit. I continued on climbing toward the summit. As I passed through the saddle between Darton Dome and O’Leary, I knew I was almost there.

Soon, the tower came into view, and I had reached the summit. I slipped off my pack and took a few photos from the summit. Shawn, who passed me earlier, invited me up the tower. I mentioned I had been in many towers before, so the “Fire Lookout Tower Intro Talk” wasn’t needed. We chatted about various things, including the Dragon Bravo Fire. He shared some video taken by his colleagues of the fire and the aftermath of the Lodge at the North Rim. After about 30 minutes, I said farewell and wished him an easy day. The return from the summit went quickly. From time to time, I would move a rock off to the side of the road to prevent an accidental flat tire. The entire hike was 9.91 miles with 2,032 feet of gain, and I had a moving time of 3:06. After cleaning up at the campsite, I drove into town to take care of some online chores and attend an orientation session for grad school. Just one more peak to climb to finish off the Arizona Summer Six Pack of Peaks Challenge!

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Return to Bear Mountain

I wanted to try to complete the Arizona Summer Six Pack of Peaks Challenge before I started grad school, and in case the Coconino Forest became closed (which has happened in the past). Unfortunately, I could not stay with my friends in Flagstaff, so I had to work out how I was going to string together the three remaining peaks. The plan was for me to drive to North Phoenix and stay in a hotel, then wake up very, very early to get to the trailhead for Bear Mountain in Sedona. It was still quite toasty there, so an almost sunrise start was called for. The drive over was uneventful, and I had a good night’s sleep in the hotel; however, 4 am still came way too early. I grabbed a shower, then breakfast from the nearby Waffle House, and hit the road. I had hiked this mountain about 4 years ago, so I was familiar enough with the effort and basic route. I had wanted to hike Wilson Mountain, but the length of it and the temperature did not seem to make a good pair. I pulled into the parking lot, and a few cars were already there. This is a shared parking area with Doe Mountain, so I wasn’t sure who might also be attempting Bear Mountain. I grabbed my pack and headed off. The early morning sun really showcased the red rocks around me.

After crossing three small drainages, the trail began its first ascent. I remembered the duality of this hike, gentle sections and sections of steep, cliff-face hiking. The first of those cliff-face sections soon appeared, and I could feel the difference between the years. While sweat still dripped from my head, I felt so much stronger. White blazes guided me along the trail, as much of it is on rock, so you are rarely going to see footprints in the dirt to help guide you. I remembered the rocky nature of this trail and thoughtfully brought the rubber tips for my poles. Those certainly helped throughout the hike.

The trail eased after the first cliff face, then up the next one. Bear Mountain was finally in view, as it is hidden from the parking lot. The trail worked its way around and continued the climb. Fay Canyon to the north came into view.

I pushed up the last section, and soon the End of Trail marker came into view. I found some shade under a nearby tree and took a break. I didn’t want to stay too long, as the day was getting hot and there was little shade on this hike. I snapped a few photos around the cairn and some panoramic shots of the views, then headed down.

It went quickly, although I did drift off the trail once or twice, but only for a couple of minutes. I had a sense I might have missed a blaze, and I was right. This is where all those trail miles pay off. Soon, I was starting to see the parking area, and I knew my hike would soon be complete. I logged the hike at 4.69 miles with 2,057 feet of gain in 3:06. On the way out of town, I grabbed a cold soda from McDonald’s and headed off to my next Arizona Adventure.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Way up in Elfin Forest

I wanted to get in a few miles before it got too hot, so I decided to take a hike in Elfin Forest. It had been a while since I hiked any of the trails out there. The parking lot doesn’t open until 8, so I didn’t rush to leave the house. About ten cars were already in the lot when I arrived at about 8:40. I grabbed my gear and set off. After crossing Escondido Creek, the trail begins its ascent via the Way Up Trail.

Nicely designed Trail markers called out the mileage and elevation. There were additional markers for those who might need assistance from emergency personnel. I passed a couple enjoying the shade of one of the shelters that are installed throughout the reserve. Once at the main trail junction, I decided to continue on up to the summit of Mount Israel, off to the west.

I started along the Ridgeline Road, then hopped onto the Equine Incline Loop Trail. While a bit rockier, I soon found myself at the Elfin Forest Overlook. Several more shade structures are here, along with a memorial pole for those who have lost their dogs. Just beyond the main area is the actual summit of Mount Israel. After a few photos, I opted to take the Manzanita trail instead, following the same route back.

This trail was also a rocky one, so a bit of care was needed. When this trail met with the Ridgeline Trail, I took a short walk to the Ray Brooks Overlook. It was warming up, and while the shade was nice, I wanted to get back down. I followed the Ridgeline Trail until the Mariposa Trail. I had never taken this one, so off I went.

It was a short little trail that quickly linked back up to Ridgeline Road. Before heading back down, I did a quick loop through the Ridgetop Picnic Area. I could feel the day continuing to heat up, so I cruised back down. When I reached the junction with the Botanical Trail, I decided to take it. All along the side of the trail, information plaques highlighted various plants and other items of interest. After a simple rock crossing of the creek, I returned back to the staging area. My wandering in Elfin Forest covered 4.7 miles with 1,055 feet of gain in 1:49.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Exploring Cottonwood Lakes

I awoke to a layer of frost on the top of my Outback. Thankfully, my sleep system worked great, and I didn’t feel it overnight. After cooking up a nice warm breakfast and enjoying a hot beverage, Ted and I set off for another acclimation hike. We had several options to choose from: hike up Cottonwood Pass to Chicken Spring Lake, head up to Muir Lake, or go to Cottonwood Lakes. Since I had backpacked Chicken Spring Lake last year, I was more inclined to visit either Muir Lake or some of the Cottonwood Lakes. We wouldn’t have to decide until about 4 1/2 miles in, so we began hiking north along the Cottonwood Lakes Trail. A fairly steady stream of backpackers came hiking down as we kept making our way up. At one point, we had to step aside to allow some burros and their handlers to pass by. They were returning from supplying the Golden Trout Wilderness Camp.

After a couple of crossings of Cottonwood Creek, we came to a trail junction. The left fork headed to New Army Pass, while the right fork would still give us the option to go to Muir Lake. A group of backpackers was taking a break, and we chatted a bit, mostly about the classic external framed pack that one of them was using. It turns out he has been using it since the 60s! While we had been climbing a bit, the real elevation gain was now before us. The climb wasn’t too bad, but you could feel that we were closing in on 11,000 feet.

Soon, the trail eased, and we reached the junction to Muir Lake. We opted to head to Cottonwood Lake #2 as our lunch destination. As we passed by Cottonwood Lake #1, a golden eagle soared above us! What a sight, and we caught a photo of it. We followed the shoreline to a nice spot for lunch. What a view–I can see why permits to camp here are so coveted. Trout could be seen swimming in the clear water as we ate and relaxed. We filtered some water and began to head back to camp. Instead of taking the same trail, this time we used the New Army Pass Trail. I’m so glad we did, as we were rewarded with a lovely waterfall.

As we made our way back, fresh backpackers were making their way up the trail to begin their adventures. After rejoining the Cottonwood Lakes Trail, I began to notice my legs starting to feel the miles and effort. I hoped I had not overdone it with this hike. As we continued on, that fear kept growing. Maybe once at camp and a good night’s sleep, I might recover.

Back at camp, I took it easy. After making a simpler dinner, we again enjoyed a night campfire before turning in. I hoped that I had not sabotaged my ability to climb Mt. Whitney by doing too much to acclimatize. To be continued…The final stats for this hike were 13.1 miles and 1,480 feet of gain. Not counting our lunch break, the hike took us 5:45.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!

Hiking Trail Pass – Horseshoe Meadows

With the Outback packed with our gear for two nights at Horseshoe Meadows, we set off just after 8. The drive was uneventful, and we made it into Lone Pine for lunch before making the drive up the mountain. Once at the walk-in campground, Ted found a site to pitch his tent, while I registered our stay. I planned to sleep in the car, so all I really had to do was transfer our food into the bear locker. Once everything was squared away, we set off on a light hike up Trail Pass to help us get acclimated.

We strolled through Horseshoe Meadows, making the crossing over the creek that flows through. From there, we began the gentle climb toward the pass. It felt good to stretch my legs after the drive up from San Diego. At the pass, we chatted with some other hikers section hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. After our short break, we set off along the PCT southbound to Mulkey Pass. Once at that pass, we began our return descent to the meadow. This trail was a bit steeper and not as clearly used as the trail we used when we went up. When the trail reached the southern edge of the meadow, it turned northeastward for a bit before crossing the meadow proper. We were a bit east of our camp, so we had a short road walk to complete our loop.

As the day drew to a close, I cooked up some dinner (blackened salmon, rice pilaf, caesar salad, and sourdough) and then we relaxed by the fire before turning in for the night. Our loop covered 5.34 miles, 785 feet of gain, and took us 2:14.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. I am the co-author of Urban Trails:San Diego, coming in Spring 2026!